#1
hi boys.
i just notice that action on my jackson sl2 goes down as soon as i looking through from 12ft fret to 24!
i mean my action on 12fret is about 2.3mm and it goes to 1.9mm on 24 fret.. is it make problem or something...?
#2
Unless I'm not getting this, it sounds like neck relief to me.

It makes sure you don't end up with your strings buzzing all over your guitar, although some do manage to get a very straight neck without buzzing.
#3
Quote by triface
Unless I'm not getting this, it sounds like neck relief to me.

It makes sure you don't end up with your strings buzzing all over your guitar, although some do manage to get a very straight neck without buzzing.


but i dont have any string buzzing at least from 5th fret to end of the neck. i just have string buzz in E1 and E6 on frets 1,2,3,4.
what can i do.?
#5
Your nut action could be too high.
Quote by SAEED25
but i dont have any string buzzing at least from 5th fret to end of the neck. i just have string buzz in E1 and E6 on frets 1,2,3,4.
what can i do.?

Your strings buzzing up to the 4th fret suggests that your neck relief is wrong, as your neck is too straight.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jul 23, 2014,
#6
Find an 18" straight edge and lay it on the fretboard. If you see a gap under it anywhere that exceeds a hairline, you're going to have to address the curvature of the neck.

Go to StewMac.com -- you'll find they have information on there (archived newsletters, etc.) that will help you set up your guitar. Or pick up a book called "How to make your electric guitar play great" by Dan Erlewine (they have them at Amazon). Best $20 you'll spend on your guitar.

Ideally, your neck should be flat, or nearly so. You should be able to set your action very low. Carvin used to guarantee "action as low as 1/16th" from the 24th fret with no buzzing frets", and they delivered. If you have a fairly light touch, you can blaze on a guitar like that throughout its range. You shouldn't be cranking in a lot of relief (bend) in the neck with the truss rod. I have guitars that haven't had their truss rod touched in 50 years that play beautifully. You shouldn't have higher action in the middle of the neck than you do at either end.
#7
It's only problem if you get fret buzz.

Electrics can be deliberately set up with the high fret action lower than the 12th fret action, and may be the best option for those who play mostly on the high frets. In fact one guitar maker years ago was advertising a guaranteed very low action at the high frets by doing this. It isn't a problem, it is an option, and is the way I would set up an electric for fretted playing. It needs just the right amount of neck relief to work.

Imagine the geometry of it and you will see how it works. The string is a straight line, the neck is an arc (from neck relief) at the low frets (up to about 7) and hopefully a straight line at the high frets. The two are joined at the nut. Now imagine swiveling the string ("hinged"at the nut) in relation to the neck. - It is easy to envisage the point where the 7th fret is the biggest gap between string and neck, and where fretting doesn't cause buzzing.
#8
thanks friends.it seems i have to do something with neck relief ...
#9
hi- i want to measure my neck relief. i have read some about that,

1-i push down first fret and last fret and i have to could fit a business card on the action of 12th fret.(in my case i can do it just with ٍٍٍE6 to G3 string but B2 and E1)

2- i push down first and 12th fret and the action around 6th fret should not be touching the fret (in my case touch the frets for all strings) .i confused badly... whats wrong with my neck.? Anyone got what im saying ??
#10
Quote by SAEED25
hi- i want to measure my neck relief. i have read some about that,

1-i push down first fret and last fret and i have to could fit a business card on the action of 12th fret.(in my case i can do it just with ٍٍٍE6 to G3 string but B2 and E1)

2- i push down first and 12th fret and the action around 6th fret should not be touching the fret (in my case touch the frets for all strings) .i confused badly... whats wrong with my neck.? Anyone got what im saying ??


There is insufficient neck relief. Try taking off about 1/4 turn on the truss rod and see what happens, then if necessary try adjusting again until you get some relief. When you have done this, lower the bridge until you have a nice low action at the last fret but not much fret buzz - a bit of buzz is allowable on an electric.
#11
Quote by Tony Done
There is insufficient neck relief. Try taking off about 1/4 turn on the truss rod and see what happens, then if necessary try adjusting again until you get some relief. When you have done this, lower the bridge until you have a nice low action at the last fret but not much fret buzz - a bit of buzz is allowable on an electric.


thanks buddy-so you say i have to loosing my truss rod 1/4 circle??
#13
Quote by SAEED25
hi- i want to measure my neck relief. i have read some about that,

1-i push down first fret and last fret and i have to could fit a business card on the action of 12th fret.(in my case i can do it just with ٍٍٍE6 to G3 string but B2 and E1)

2- i push down first and 12th fret and the action around 6th fret should not be touching the fret (in my case touch the frets for all strings) .i confused badly... whats wrong with my neck.? Anyone got what im saying ??


No. You push down the first and the 17th frets. For most necks the truss rod doesn't work beyond the 16th fret or so. At the 7th fret, there should be a tiny sliver of daylight, but if you don't have feeler gauges (the accurate way to measure it), the relief should be no more than the thickness of a *new playing card*, not a business card, not a credit card. I keep my relief between .005 and .010" (usually at the lower end of the scale if you're doing low action).
#14
If you have no relief, you need to loosen your truss rod (this allows the string tension to pull the top of the neck forward). Most work traditionally (leftie loosie, righty tighty). No more than a quarter turn (I've done 1/8ths) at a time. Then check it again. You may want to let your neck acclimate to the new setting a bit before you start adding additional relief.
#15
Quote by dspellman
No. You push down the first and the 17th frets. For most necks the truss rod doesn't work beyond the 16th fret or so. At the 7th fret, there should be a tiny sliver of daylight, but if you don't have feeler gauges (the accurate way to measure it), the relief should be no more than the thickness of a *new playing card*, not a business card, not a credit card. I keep my relief between .005 and .010" (usually at the lower end of the scale if you're doing low action).



This..... Don't know where this "last fret" came from but is continually repeated here (17 is Fenders top end but you can use the 1st fret that sit's over the body). I agree with Dspellman that the neck should be as straight as possible with minimal buzzing (not transferred through the PUs). A straighter neck is one that intonates better and feels better.
Moving on.....
Last edited by KenG at Jul 27, 2014,
#16
Quote by dspellman
No. You push down the first and the 17th frets. For most necks the truss rod doesn't work beyond the 16th fret or so. At the 7th fret, there should be a tiny sliver of daylight, but if you don't have feeler gauges (the accurate way to measure it), the relief should be no more than the thickness of a *new playing card*, not a business card, not a credit card. I keep my relief between .005 and .010" (usually at the lower end of the scale if you're doing low action).

well.i did that and got 0.1mm relief.but problem in post #1 happend for me.! my middle frets action is higher than last frets.!
#17
... as i changing truss rod position ,the difference take, in half of my neck(wood under E6,A5,G3 strings ) more than other side ..so amount of relief is not same for all strings. ! 4 example relief on 12th fret for E6 is a credit card 0.8mm and for E1 its just about playing card 0.1mm.!!... o my god .any one get that story?
Last edited by SAEED25 at Jul 29, 2014,