#1
So, like the title says, my footswitch stopped working. It happened kinda like this: i took the damn thing home because i was building my pedalboard and i needed to size everything. After i went back to our practice space, i pluged in the footswitch and it simply didnt work anymore.

When i plug it into the amp, it stays on the clean channel, and when i unplug it it switches to the overdrive channel. When it was working the LED light on it was on when it was on overdrive, and off when it was on clean, and now its premanently off. So im guessing the switch broke and its now permanently stuck in the off position? Or is it possible that the LED broke, and that somehow kills the switch? Im not sure thats possible with the way its wired tho. Ill post some pics.

Anyway, i have a few switches at home that i bought a few years ago because my CryBaby was breaking down every few months. So the switches definately work on that one. But im confused as to how to fix it. Does it matter how i turn the switch? Im guessing it matters to what pins i soder the wires to, but the damn thing is symetrical, so i have no idea how to turn it. Anyway, i have some pics of the footswitch, the wiring and the switch i have. I hope you guys can help.

The footswitch.


The inside of the footswitch. Im guessing the wires that go into that silicony thing are connected to the LED.


The switch i have


Different veiw. I have no idea wich two of the pins i have to use.


So yeah, thats about it. I actually tried to fix it by just turning the original switch around and resodering the wires to the other side, but that didnt work. Dont ask me why i did that, it was my grandfathers idea, and he generaly knows more about this stuff than i do. Any help will be apreciated.And if i cant fix it, can i buy a new knockof footswitch, or do i have to get the original one from the maker of the amp (Jet City btw)?
Joža je kul. On ma sirove z dodatki pa hambije.
#2
Yes the switch is symmetrical.
Set the switch so you have a 2x3 pins configuration - 2 columns, 3 rows.
Each pin in the center row is always connected to the pin in the same column - the pin in the upper row in one position and the pin in the lower row in the other position.

Check if the led still works.
Also check if the switch still works.
For both you'll need a voltmeter or a multimeter.
If you don't have one, ask somebody to borrow it, and if they don't have it either buy one, they're hella helpful in most situation where you need to test electronics.
Name's Luca.

Quote by OliOsbourne
I don't know anything about this topic, but I just clicked on this thread because of your username :O
Quote by Cajundaddy
Clue: amplifiers amplify so don't turn it on if you need quiet.
Quote by chrismendiola
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#3
I would test the continuity of the cable and each end. I had the cable go to crap on my 5150 footswitch. I ended up soldering on a new jack onto the footswitch and now use a TRS cable so it cleans up nicely on my board.
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#4
Quote by Spambot_2
Yes the switch is symmetrical.
Set the switch so you have a 2x3 pins configuration - 2 columns, 3 rows.
Each pin in the center row is always connected to the pin in the same column - the pin in the upper row in one position and the pin in the lower row in the other position.

Check if the led still works.
Also check if the switch still works.
For both you'll need a voltmeter or a multimeter.
If you don't have one, ask somebody to borrow it, and if they don't have it either buy one, they're hella helpful in most situation where you need to test electronics.



Well this at least makes me understand how the switch works. Cant i test the LED by just conecting it to a 9V battery?

And how do i test the continuity of the cable? Just send some current trough and see if anything lights up? Because i checked the jack and it seems ok.

Could the problem be in the amp itself? Maybe the input jack on the amp is busted or something else inside?
Joža je kul. On ma sirove z dodatki pa hambije.
#5
Quote by gorkyporky
Well this at least makes me understand how the switch works. Cant i test the LED by just conecting it to a 9V battery?
No.
I mean, it would light up but it would fry after a second or so.
You need a proper resistor - 390ohm IIRC, though don't quote me on that.

Or you could use a multimeter.
Quote by gorkyporky
And how do i test the continuity of the cable? Just send some current trough and see if anything lights up? Because i checked the jack and it seems ok.
you either send the same amount of current the amp's jack sends and see if the led lights up in one of the two switch positions, or you could put the two ends of a voltmeter on both ends on the cable.
Quote by gorkyporky
Could the problem be in the amp itself? Maybe the input jack on the amp is busted or something else inside?
May be, but checking that is more complicated than checking the switch unless you have another footswitch to try with the amp, so I'd say it'd be best to check the amp first
Name's Luca.

Quote by OliOsbourne
I don't know anything about this topic, but I just clicked on this thread because of your username :O
Quote by Cajundaddy
Clue: amplifiers amplify so don't turn it on if you need quiet.
Quote by chrismendiola
I guess spambots are now capable of reading minds.
#6
Quote by Spambot_2
No.
I mean, it would light up but it would fry after a second or so.
You need a proper resistor - 390ohm IIRC, though don't quote me on that.

Or you could use a multimeter.
you either send the same amount of current the amp's jack sends and see if the led lights up in one of the two switch positions, or you could put the two ends of a voltmeter on both ends on the cable.
May be, but checking that is more complicated than checking the switch unless you have another footswitch to try with the amp, so I'd say it'd be best to check the amp first


Well there is already a resistor wired into the thing. I guess ill just change the switch and if it doesnt work, i have to get a multimeter somewhere. There's an entire garage of tools at my house, including goddamn densitiy meters for wood, but no voltmeters...
Joža je kul. On ma sirove z dodatki pa hambije.
#7
It's more likely for the led to go wrong because of, for example, a voltage spike, so if you had to substitute stuff I'd substitute the led first.

Or you could probably simply short the two cables and see if the thing works, it's unlikely that you'll fry anything this way.
If that works solder the cables to the switch and see if the switch works as well.
If that also works the problem's the led.
Name's Luca.

Quote by OliOsbourne
I don't know anything about this topic, but I just clicked on this thread because of your username :O
Quote by Cajundaddy
Clue: amplifiers amplify so don't turn it on if you need quiet.
Quote by chrismendiola
I guess spambots are now capable of reading minds.
#8


This is how the ting is wired (i think). The arrow goes up to the actual cable. So, why would the switch not work if the led is fried?

Im sorry if im being stupid here, im just really new to all this electrical buisens, and im really trying to learn something here, and not **** up more than i have to.
Joža je kul. On ma sirove z dodatki pa hambije.
#9
Damn you're right
Really sorry about that.

Then you can try and connect the two cable wires when the other end of the cable is connected to the amp, and see if the led lights up.
If it doesn't, the problem's with the amp - or with the cable, but you said you already tested the cable IIRC.

If it's the amp, the FS jack may not be properly connected to the PCB anymore, so you may try re-soldering that as well first.
If it's not it then it may be a series of things I'm not even able to list, so if you can test the components yourself it might be best to call Jet City's customer support and have them repair your amp - or send you a new one altogether.
Name's Luca.

Quote by OliOsbourne
I don't know anything about this topic, but I just clicked on this thread because of your username :O
Quote by Cajundaddy
Clue: amplifiers amplify so don't turn it on if you need quiet.
Quote by chrismendiola
I guess spambots are now capable of reading minds.
#10
From looking at the switch and your description of the LED off and Clean on, it sound like the switch is permanently shorted, or at least somewhere in the cable.
#11
Actually i havent tested the cable since i dont really know how.

Anyway, i changed the switch, and no dice, still doesnt work. And since the jack is completely fine, i guess that it must be the cable. At least i hope it is, since that would be easier to fix than the amp. So yeah, next thing on the list is to test the cable. I figured i can hook up a light and a 6v power supply that i use for charging car batteries, and see if it lights up. I guess the 6v wont fry the led if it still works. I would hook it up like this, since i fugre that would make the current go trough the entire cable, switch and led:

Joža je kul. On ma sirove z dodatki pa hambije.
#12
Well, i tried this. The light turned on, and when i pressed the switch it stayed on. Then i conected it like this to the two pins on the switch, that are sodered to the cable. It stayed on eventho i pressed the switch. I tested the two pins like this before i even sodered them on the cable, and they worked just fine, so apparently they stopped when they got connected to the cable. Then i hooked it up to two pins that are not sodered to the cable, and it worked like it should, the light turned on and off when i pressed the switch.

So i guess the cable is shorted out somewhere? Im gonna try to change the cable tomorrow. Im guessing a normal guitar cable is suitable?
Joža je kul. On ma sirove z dodatki pa hambije.
#13
Quote by gorkyporky
So i guess the cable is shorted out somewhere?
Most likely.
Quote by gorkyporky
Im gonna try to change the cable tomorrow. Im guessing a normal guitar cable is suitable?
Yep.
Name's Luca.

Quote by OliOsbourne
I don't know anything about this topic, but I just clicked on this thread because of your username :O
Quote by Cajundaddy
Clue: amplifiers amplify so don't turn it on if you need quiet.
Quote by chrismendiola
I guess spambots are now capable of reading minds.
#14
Well, i finaly changed the cable yesterday, and it works. YAY! So, i guess i learned a lesson here, if people on the internet tell you to check the cable, you better check the goddamn cable first before doing anything else.
Joža je kul. On ma sirove z dodatki pa hambije.
#15
I've been repairing various things most of my life and the one thing I learned is ALWAYS check the simple (As in easiest to repair) stuff first.
#16
Quote by metalmingee
I would test the continuity of the cable and each end. I had the cable go to crap on my 5150 footswitch. I ended up soldering on a new jack onto the footswitch and now use a TRS cable so it cleans up nicely on my board.


X2.

I did the same thing for a DSL- the cable through footswitch without a jack is a bad design. I had two DSLs and a Krank that had the cable break right at the grommet, wires broke inside the insulation.

I added 1/4 jacks and used a TRS on all of them.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.