#1
Howdy,


Got a Washburn XB100 from a friend along with a Fender Rumble 100. He wants me to sell them for him (he's moving out of town) but I've run into a little problem. The truss rod has absolutely 0 motion in any direction so the neck can't be adjusted anymore. It's stuck and I don't want to force it. Is there something I can use to get the thing moving again (like a lubricant) or is the rod broken? If it's fixable without too much of a hassle, I don't mind doing it myself (it's a cheaper guitar too so I'm not too worried about mucking it up).


Thanks guys.
Quote by zgr0826
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#2
I tried to find some info. It seems to be a double acting truss rod, but I'm not sure. If it is, it might work in reverse to a normal single acting one, so care would be needed with the adjustment.

I would trying putting al little (eg off a toothpick) penetrating oil, like RP-7 or WD-40 in the nut and leave it to stand for a few hours. I've done this successfully on frozen pickup poles.
#3
Quote by Tony Done
I tried to find some info. It seems to be a double acting truss rod, but I'm not sure. If it is, it might work in reverse to a normal single acting one, so care would be needed with the adjustment.

I would trying putting al little (eg off a toothpick) penetrating oil, like RP-7 or WD-40 in the nut and leave it to stand for a few hours. I've done this successfully on frozen pickup poles.



Double action truss rod you mean? I don't think that changes the operation of it but I'll keep that in mind.


I've read that people use something like a 3-in-1 oil instead. Would that be better compared to WD-40?
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#4
Quote by H4T3BR33D3R
Double action truss rod you mean? I don't think that changes the operation of it but I'll keep that in mind.


I've read that people use something like a 3-in-1 oil instead. Would that be better compared to WD-40?


The type of truss rod shouldn't affect your problem, but they can be installed upside down so that clockwise increases relief - my National reso is like that.

I would use WD-40 rather than 3-in-1, because it is designed for that specific job. I wouldn't squirt it though. What I do is spray a bit into the cap, then drop it onto the screw with a toothpick. Some of the industrial penetrating oils work even better, but I think that would be overkill.
#5
I had a frozen truss rod nut on a 1973 Yamaha 12-string. I hit it with penetrating oil (sold in auto supply stores for loosening frozen fasteners on cars) once a day for about three days. Each night, I would try to work the nut in both directions. After three or four days, it finally moved and all was well.
#6
Quote by H4T3BR33D3R
I've read that people use something like a 3-in-1 oil instead. Would that be better compared to WD-40?

Probably, but you just need to get some sort of lubricant in there so you can work it loose. It doesn't matter too much what it is unless it's really, really frozen. Give it a shot with whatever you have lying around.
#7
Quote by Tony Done
The type of truss rod shouldn't affect your problem, but they can be installed upside down so that clockwise increases relief - my National reso is like that.

I would use WD-40 rather than 3-in-1, because it is designed for that specific job. I wouldn't squirt it though. What I do is spray a bit into the cap, then drop it onto the screw with a toothpick. Some of the industrial penetrating oils work even better, but I think that would be overkill.



Sounds good. I'll use very little and see if that does the trick. Thanks guys
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#9
And give it time. It may take a few days to work the oil in.
#10
PB Blaster works great

I have also found that Rem-oil works great
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#11
Quote by Robbgnarly
PB Blaster works great

I have also found that Rem-oil works great



Thanks for the suggestions.


Quote by Tony Done
Please let us know how it goes. Those of us that offer advice always like to have feedback, as it helps with future suggestions.


For sure! I'm going to start tonight and I'll keep you guys posted. If I'm bored enough, maybe I'll record a video or something.


EDIT: Quick update. Applied a bit of WD-40. No motion yet but I'll keep trying.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
Last edited by H4T3BR33D3R at Sep 4, 2014,
#12
So it's been 4 days now but I thought I'd give a little update.


Anyway, I've been applying small amounts of WD-40 every day since my last post (sprayed a tiny amount in the cap and poured it down the channel) and unfortunately I haven't been able to get the thing moving in any direction. I'm thinking I may need to try something else.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#13
I don't think there is anything else. A good crank on it with some leverage, should work or break it, either way, problem over
#14
Quote by Tempoe
I don't think there is anything else. A good crank on it with some leverage, should work or break it, either way, problem over



Yeah I haven't really cranked on it because I didn't want to break anything. They have those truss rod rescue kits from Stew-Mac but I don't really think it's worth going that far on such a cheap bass.


If I can't get it going by the end of the week I'll probably just leave it be.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#16
Quote by Robbgnarly
Hey if you need a playable bass neck (for a 4 string)
here you go
www.guitarfetish.com/Bass-Unfinished-Paddle-Headstock-Neck-Maple-Fingerboard_p_5562.html



Thats actually not too pricey either. Wonder if the scale is the same as the XB.


I'll probably just pick something up like that if I can't get it to budge.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#17
Email them, but I'm pretty sure it is a 34" scale
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#18
Is it worth trying some heat with a soldering iron? If you've got a single action truss rod with a removeable nut, the expansion from heating might be enough to crack the thread and either turn it or get WD-40 in.
#19
Quote by -MintSauce-
Is it worth trying some heat with a soldering iron? If you've got a single action truss rod with a removeable nut, the expansion from heating might be enough to crack the thread and either turn it or get WD-40 in.

good idea, but you'll need a pretty hot iron.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#20
Quote by -MintSauce-
Is it worth trying some heat with a soldering iron? If you've got a single action truss rod with a removeable nut, the expansion from heating might be enough to crack the thread and either turn it or get WD-40 in.



Yeah I could try that. I've got a 40 watter and I'm going to assume that will get hot enough?
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#21
Quote by H4T3BR33D3R
Yeah I could try that. I've got a 40 watter and I'm going to assume that will get hot enough?

It might, give it a try
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#22
Quote by Robbgnarly
It might, give it a try



Coolio. Will do.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#24
Quote by Tony Done
40w is a bit light, so get a blob of solder on the tip of the iron to act as a heat conductor.



I usually tin my solder tip anyway.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#26
Quote by Tony Done
OK, but make sure it is enough to form a drop between the nut and the tip - try tinning the nut a little where the tip touches it.


Will do. I'll try it out tomorrow and see how it goes.


Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.