#1
well i Lubricated my Nut with Blaster's Dry lube that has PTFE and I dont think is not working any advice I try of getting the graphite powder but they were out of it in home depot so i decided to try this thing and I dont know if i did it wrong or not but it keeps goin out of tune, any help will be appreciated.
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#3
Quote by Explorerbuilder
You have a guitar that has a floyd with no locking nut?
Chances are, its never going to stay in tune without a locking nut.

it does, what i did its apply the lube to the locking nut.
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#4
Why? "Locking" and "lubricated" are rather opposite things. I don't see what benefit lubricating the nut could possibly have.

Did you just read somewhere that lubricating the nut is good for tuning stability and decide to lube the nut? Because that doesn't apply at all to a double locking system. Something else must be wrong.
#5
Quote by Tenebrion
it does, what i did its apply the lube to the locking nut.

Why would you do that? The locking nut is to prevent the strings from slipping/moving at all, locked solid. Lubricating a nut is to help the strings move more freely with less resistance in a standard non-locking. A lock nut and lube just doesn't go together.


EDIT: Ninjad
Last edited by Way Cool JR. at Nov 21, 2014,
#6
Quote by Roc8995
Why? "Locking" and "lubricated" are rather opposite things. I don't see what benefit lubricating the nut could possibly have.

Did you just read somewhere that lubricating the nut is good for tuning stability and decide to lube the nut? Because that doesn't apply at all to a double locking system. Something else must be wrong.

its is used for less friction on the nut. that could make my floyd out of tune
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#7
Quote by Tenebrion
its is used for less friction on the nut. that could make my floyd out of tune

No, where ever you got that information is wrong. You only lube a non locking nut, you do not lube a locking nut.

You need to check the spring tension and balance as well as the way the actual FR is sitting, it should be parallel to the body. I would say this is probably the issue.
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#8
Quote by Robbgnarly
No, where ever you got that information is wrong. You only lube a non locking nut, you do not lube a locking nut.

You need to check the spring tension and balance as well as the way the actual FR is sitting, it should be parallel to the body. I would say this is probably the issue.

its not wrong my brother, cause I have done with the graphite powder and its works wonderfully.
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#9
Help me understand where exactly the friction is a problem on a locking nut. Are you just leaving it unlocked? Something is off here. Are you just lubricating the screw so it tightens more easily?

Lubricating a locking nut, on its face, seems totally absurd. I'm trying to figure out what you're actually doing that is (allegedly) improving tuning stability.
#10
When the whammy bar is in used Dove bombs or squeals, the locking nut creates friction string its moving inside the locking nut and the powder helps the string to go back in place even if its just a little bit that it moves inside. I have a reversed headstock guitar which in case my seven strings the lowest string its thick and its need the lube the keep it right on the A note.
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#11
Quote by Tenebrion
When the whammy bar is in used Dove bombs or squeals, the locking nut creates friction string its moving inside the locking nut and the powder helps the string to go back in place even if its just a little bit that it moves inside. I have a reversed headstock guitar which in case my seven strings the lowest string its thick and its need the lube the keep it right on the A note.



You obviously know what's going on
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#12


Creating friction between the string and the nut is the whole freaking point of a locking nut. You want the strings to have so much friction against the nut that they don't move whatsoever. That's why it's called a LOCKING nut!

If the locking nut is functioning correctly, the string will not be moving inside the nut whatsoever. Lubricating the nut only encourages the strings to slip.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Nov 21, 2014,
#13
if it's a LOCKING nut, it shouldn't need lube in order for the string to move freely and return back to its original position. non-locking nuts need lube, not locking-- if your Floyd Rose goes out of tune when you use it, take it in for a proper set up
#14
Quote by dreid77447
if it's a LOCKING nut, it shouldn't need lube in order for the string to move freely and return back to its original position. non-locking nuts need lube, not locking-- if your Floyd Rose goes out of tune when you use it, take it in for a proper set up

hahahahaha this is fun idk what that hell is goin here but so you are a telling all your floyd roses stay in perfect tune after any use of the whammy?
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#15
Quote by Tenebrion
hahahahaha this is fun idk what that hell is goin here but so you are a telling all your floyd roses stay in perfect tune after any use of the whammy?

Yes? I don't have any idea what other's floyds have to do with yours, so where are you going with this?
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Nov 21, 2014,
#16
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Yes? I don't have any idea what other's floyds have to do with yours, so where are you going with this?

my chinese floyd stays in perfect tune, trying to figure out whats goin on
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#18
Let's start over.
Quote by Tenebrion
it keeps goin out of tune .. string its moving inside the locking nut
It keeps goin out of tune because the string is moving inside the locking nut.

1. Wipe that shit off your nut
2. Clamp the nut screws down firmly so it's locking the strings in place
3. Dove bomb
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#19
Okay, I have to apologize. I was busy wiping snot bubbles off my screen and keyboard after reading the original post, and the tears in my eyes are keeping me from seeing what I'm typing.

Do not lube a Floyd Rose locking nut. You do not want any part of the string moving back and forth inside the nut, even a little bit. If you need confirmation that lubing a Floyd Rose nut is a bad idea, please contact Floyd Rose directly. When they're done wiping their own snot bubbles off their screens, they'll explain this to you in exactly the same way.

With a Floyd, you want to create the equivalent of the string ending right at the nut. It shouldn't matter what headstock you've got or what tuners are hanging off it. As soon as you clamp down the locking nut, they're out of the picture. There are guitars that take this even farther and eliminate the headstock and tuners altogether (google the Carvin Holdsworth Headless guitar).

If you lube the locking nut, you'll be increasing the odds (if not guaranteeing) that your Floyd will go out of tune. Don't do it. No matter how you think things inside that nut work, do not do it. I'm reminded of the guy who greased his disk brakes because they were looking rusty. RIP.
#20
wow I think my mind just exploded because of this thread ... slippery nuts can be great, but not in this case
#22
yup thank you ppl for nothing problem solved called a Luthier I know he told me that nothing is wrong on the floyd is just old and needs changing(told me to replace the studs on the floyd), I told him about the dry lube he told me its not bad idea cause it will protect the locking nut from future damage.
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Last edited by Tenebrion at Nov 23, 2014,
#23
Before I accuse your tech of trying to sell you a bridge replacement without actually seeing your guitar, I'm gonna take one last serious shot at trying to understand this.

You're putting lube where exactly on the nut? What specific damage would you otherwise expect?
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#24
Quote by Tenebrion
yup thank you ppl for nothing problem solved called a Luthier I know he told me that nothing is wrong on the floyd is just old and needs changing(told me to replace the studs on the floyd), I told him about the dry lube he told me its not bad idea cause it will protect the locking nut from future damage.



How could you be so dense? You only need to look at an FR locking nut to figure out that the strings are being clamped to the nut to prevent them from moving. It's designed to do that! Making them slip by lubricating the nut only inhibits their function! How could you not work that out given the number of times people on this thread have told you?

The so-called 'luthier' you've found is just as clueless as you are in telling you to keep lubing the locking nut. If anything, lubing the nut slots only accelerates any wear that may occur because encouraging the strings to slip causes the strings to abrade against the slots, wearing them down.

I'm starting to think that you're actually a troll. Over something so dumb as this no less.

I'd rank it with threads the likes of this,
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1440123&
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Nov 23, 2014,
#25
he came down and saw my guitar in person and my floyd rose its pretty damn used and when i first got the guitar i didnt lube or take good care of it, he told me the the edges are all wear down
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#26
Quote by Tenebrion
he came down and saw my guitar in person and my floyd rose its pretty damn used and when i first got the guitar i didnt lube or take good care of it, he told me the the edges are all wear down

Wait...

Were you not actually referring to the locking nut at all, and you were referring to the knife edges of the floyd this entire time?



Because lubricating the knife edges makes a shitton more sense than lubricating the locking nut.

For clarification, when you use the term, 'locking nut', are you referring to this,

Exhibit A:



Or this?

Exhibit B:

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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Nov 23, 2014,
#27
Quote by Tenebrion
yup thank you ppl for nothing problem solved called a Luthier I know he told me that nothing is wrong on the floyd is just old and needs changing(told me to replace the studs on the floyd), I told him about the dry lube he told me its not bad idea cause it will protect the locking nut from future damage.

Wow you really are clueless and so is your "tech".

Yes the FR knife edges can dull over time and it will affect the tuning stability. But I have not heard of the posts going bad unless they start to actually lean.

Edit: OK so you were referring to the knife edge the whole time and not the nut. That makes way more sense.
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Last edited by Robbgnarly at Nov 23, 2014,
#28
Quote by Tenebrion
yup thank you ppl for nothing problem solved called a Luthier I know he told me that nothing is wrong on the floyd is just old and needs changing(told me to replace the studs on the floyd), I told him about the dry lube he told me its not bad idea cause it will protect the locking nut from future damage.

Wait a minute. You think this proves you right? Read between the lines, man. "Not a bad idea" is a nice way of saying that what you were doing is doing nothing to help your tuning stability. Your tech was trying to avoid telling you that you have no idea what you're doing.

So, when we kept telling you that something else was the problem here, and you kept saying that lubricating the nut was the solution, and now you call your tech and he tells you to replace the studs - how are you possibly coming to the conclusion that you were correct? Your solution was nowhere near the right one. Notice that your tech said the graphite was "not a bad idea" which is very different from "a good idea" or "a solution to your problem." I assume he meant that some lubricants would prevent rusting, which is technically true. Still not even close to a solution to your problem.

I don't know you personally so I don't want to call you a stupid person - but you are consistently and stubbornly acting like one here. Maybe take some time to think things through a bit more the next time you get mad about the responses you get here.
#29
Quote by Tenebrion
yup thank you ppl for nothing problem solved called a Luthier I know he told me that nothing is wrong on the floyd is just old and needs changing(told me to replace the studs on the floyd), I told him about the dry lube he told me its not bad idea cause it will protect the locking nut from future damage.


Listen -- you're a bit more clueless than you realize. That's not a bad thing -- we all encounter new things in our guitar journeys, and the folks at UG are pretty good about helping people get up to speed. But to be clueless and then to castigate the people who are giving you the right information isn't going to get you very far.

This is the Floyd Rose locking nut (look it up on the Floyd Rose website if you've got doubts):



It does NOT get lubricated.

The knife edges on the trem itself DO get lubricated (see Roc's illustration). You don't necessarily need a whole new trem if there's some wear on them, but you might. I've actually filed the cheaper trems here and there to sharpen the edges and some of those have run twenty years of medium use. If your "luthier" (I reserve this term for people who actually build guitars from the raw chunk of wood -- everyone else is a "tech", including those who bolt together teles and strats from standard bodies and necks) is telling you, without looking at your guitar, that you need a new trem and posts, I'm guessing that he's licking his chops at the prospect of suckering some clueless yahoo out of a couple of hundred bucks. I'd get a second opinion.
#30
Quote by dspellman
Listen -- you're a bit more clueless than you realize. That's not a bad thing -- we all encounter new things in our guitar journeys, and the folks at UG are pretty good about helping people get up to speed. But to be clueless and then to castigate the people who are giving you the right information isn't going to get you very far.

This is the Floyd Rose locking nut (look it up on the Floyd Rose website if you've got doubts):



It does NOT get lubricated.

The knife edges on the trem itself DO get lubricated (see Roc's illustration). You don't necessarily need a whole new trem if there's some wear on them, but you might. I've actually filed the cheaper trems here and there to sharpen the edges and some of those have run twenty years of medium use. If your "luthier" (I reserve this term for people who actually build guitars from the raw chunk of wood -- everyone else is a "tech", including those who bolt together teles and strats from standard bodies and necks) is telling you, without looking at your guitar, that you need a new trem and posts, I'm guessing that he's licking his chops at the prospect of suckering some clueless yahoo out of a couple of hundred bucks. I'd get a second opinion.

well the guy has his own shop here in PR, he makes any kinda of guitars and fix them up too, at first i thought it was the nut but ppl here pointed out so much that it couldnt be I got my guy to come down and check it out and you guys here we more correct than I was.
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Last edited by Tenebrion at Nov 23, 2014,
#31
Quote by Tenebrion
you guys here we more correct than I was.

Maybe next time don't be such a jerk about the advice you get and you'll get to the "more correct" answer sooner.

Glad you got it fixed.