#1
Hi, I want to change my standard strings 9s to 11s . What kind of adjustments would I need to make in order to do so ? ( my guitar is an ltd f10 if it helps). All help is much appreciated .
#2
Depends on if you are staying in the same tuning or changing to a lower tuning.

I'm pretty sure you will need to adjust your truss rod. Other than that, I don't know. Check your intonation and action. But first check the neck relief. Your guitar has a fixed bridge so none of these adjustments should cause any trouble.

If you are also changing to a lower tuning, you may not need to do any adjustments.

But yeah, just try it. You'll see if you need to do some adjustments.
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#3
Quote by MaggaraMarine
Depends on if you are staying in the same tuning or changing to a lower tuning.

I'm pretty sure you will need to adjust your truss rod. Other than that, I don't know. Check your intonation and action. But first check the neck relief. Your guitar has a fixed bridge so none of these adjustments should cause any trouble.

If you are also changing to a lower tuning, you may not need to do any adjustments.

But yeah, just try it. You'll see if you need to do some adjustments.

Thanks . And yeah, I am changing to a lower tuning drop b or drop c (haven't decided yet) (I may sound stupid but I have never changed gauges before. How do I check the neck relief ? )
#4
The truss rod should be the last thing you check. if you're going drop b or c you may want something heavier than 11's. If you do that, you may have to cut the nut slightly deeper for the wound strings.
I'm a firm believer that straight neck isn't always best. Look down the neck, compare it to the strings. There may be a slight bow, but as long as it doesn't look like your ready to go deer hunting, you're probably ok.
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#5
Quote by ryanbwags
The truss rod should be the last thing you check. if you're going drop b or c you may want something heavier than 11's. If you do that, you may have to cut the nut slightly deeper for the wound strings.
I'm a firm believer that straight neck isn't always best. Look down the neck, compare it to the strings. There may be a slight bow, but as long as it doesn't look like your ready to go deer hunting, you're probably ok.

Haha, ok thanks but I read on a website that 11's ARE for drop c and drop b . ( Or is it that you mean they go a little softer like 9's on drop d ? )
#6
I mean I had to go with 12's to stop floppy strings. Also, I found this for your relief check.
http://www.fender.com/news/how-to-measure-neck-relief/
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ESP/LTD: EXP-300
Custom: Harley Quinn Bass
Custom: TK-421 Explorer
A steadily growing supply of pedals
#7
I agree with ryan, go for at least 12s on drop B. I use 10-52 for drop c but that's probably too loose for a lot of people's tastes. I disagree though that truss rod is the last adjustment. It should be the first thing you check. I have a set up book written by a trained guitar tech and he says, in order, you adjust the truss rod, the saddles height, then the intonation. Another really easy way to check neck relief is once you're all strung up and in tune take a ruler that measures 32nds or 64ths of an inch and put it on the 7th fret wire. Your relief should measure 3/64s (1.5/32nds) between the lowest string and the fret wire. No capos or feeler gauges needed. If it's too high or low, adjust accordingly.
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#8
I should clarify my earlier statement. Check yes. Adjust the truss rod? Maybe, maybe not. I may have worded that wrong. Most times, you won't have to touch it after checking.
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Dean: Metalman Z Bass (Betty)
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Custom: Harley Quinn Bass
Custom: TK-421 Explorer
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#9
I'd say 11s sound reasonable for drop C (although you'll probably need a 11-56 hybrid set, a 52 for C is pretty thin), but it may be a little floppy for drop B.

As for adjusting and truss rod - you should definitely check intonation after changing tunings as it might be off, but I'd say don't worry about truss rod if the guitar plays comfortably without buzz. If fret buzz appears where it didn't before then you may want to take a look at it, but I wouldn't worry about it otherwise.

Especially that adjusting truss rod is not that hard in itself... but adjusting it precisely can be a freaking nightmare, as the effects are not immediate.
#10
Thank you all for the advices and tips you gave me I will do accordingly . One last thing : I didn't get the part with the relief . And how to measure it . Would it be a good solution to follow what Ryan said with the strings and the curvature ? Thanks ,once again
#11
Maybe just check you saddles and make sure the nut is capable of bigger strings or you'll go out of tune very quickly. I have 11's on my strat in E flat tuning and had to adjust the saddles cuz my action was too high as well has having to lube the nut to enure the bigger strings would seat properly. Worst case senario just get it set up if it keeps going out of tune.
#12
you may want to raise or lower saddles/bridge for a good string height.

i don't know what you play, but for drop tuning i have always gone C#std. usually with the 6th at B (two semitones lower). everything can still feel taught and get a little low. a lot of bands do (i can't name off hand otherthan Down). but alot of the bands get their voices better that i have played in. screaming in E is a little high and most the guys i play with know where i am. some like to think they can handle D/dropA but more sound better a few semitones higher.

but whatever works for you, thats what you need to do.

i would go for .12's for C#std.
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