Hey everyone.
When I moved from 9s to 10s, the guitar tech adde an extra tremolo spring in order for the guitar to adapt to the heavier gauge. As for the other two, I'm not sure if they were already straight or if he put them in to a triangular form, and I'm not sure what kind of tension type these springs are.
I moved up to 13-64, which I consider in my case the optimal max gauge for C# (which I use), and I didn't consider the springs. My bridge keeps rattling and I ask myself if it's because there's not enough tension coming from the springs. Does anybody know how the spring system should be set up for this gauge and tuning, when it comes to soft/standard/hard tension springs, angle of springs, or number?
There is no "correct way" it is what works in your personal situation.

You can get some heavier springs or you can screw the spring claw in farther if that hasn't happened yet.

You can get noiseless springs also
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True, I didn't think about the spring claw. If I do that, does that also increase the tension of the strings? As the claw will pull the springs, that will pull the bridge back, therefore increasing the string length, does that make the strings tighter?
@sytharnia1560: just so I can get my head around this, could you explain this? It just sounds slightly logical to me, because as the claw is being pulled, it's pulling horizontally on the bottom of the bridge, which would cause the back part of the bridge (where the adjustable saddles are)to tilt down, thus pulling the strings in the opposite direction of the nut, making them tighter. I mean if we attach a rope to a tree and pull on it, it becomes longer, and the harder we pull, the more tension. It just sounds confusing.
I use 3 springs with 10-46 but it's preference like pickup height. Before attempting anything measure the screw distance inside the control cavity.

at the end of the day the bridge has to be flat and flush like this ____ . Every tuning and string gauge have different weight and it's our job to balance it.

the biggest tip I start with is when locking the strings in the bridge start with the long side of the allen key and finish with a quarter turn or so with the short end of the allen key. It makes a world of difference.

the locking nut clamps and screws I don't usually keep on, I put them on a table where they won't get lost.

so first you want to "block" the floyd rose. Put some pieces of paper under the string locks and make the bridge sit flat and put the guitar as close to tune as you want. The paper will slide out once the bridge starts to float.

ok so now this is when a chromatic tuner comes in handy the ones where letters pop up. Flip the guitar over and slightly adjust the springs. Measure the distance of the two screws that are holding the claw. Those two screws from the head to where the routing finishes and the string gauge are very important. If someone passed me a say Jackson Kelly KE3 I could put it in say standard D with 10-46 without even trying how often I do this.

after every spring adjustment where you tighten the two screws re-tune the guitar. Think of the screws as tuning pegs.

for whatever reason if anyone reads this and their floyd rose is totally out of tune or the original owner had no clue my comfort zone is 1.5cm for 25.5 scale necks and I work my way from there.

the easy 2 answers
the higher the tuning - the tighter the screws
the lower the tuning - the looser the screws
again re-tune the guitar after every adjustment and look for progress by looking at the guitar sideways

fine tuning the springs to get it perfectly flat like a pro will do. This is tricky to explain.
1)- say the whammy bar is in a pulled up position - loosen the strings the tuners are pulling too much weight towards the tuners and not enough towards the bridge. We're after balance of course. So if your guitar cannot go into say standard E tighten the springs and re-tune.

2)- say the whammy bar is in a pushed in position - there isn't enough weight on the tuners side so either tighten the strings tuners or loosen the springs. Again this depends on tuning you're trying for. This is why I'm being so comprehensive.

so again block the bridge - put as close to in tune as possible
measure prior to starting where the screw heads were - write down the gauge too
every spring adjustment in the back - re-tune
look at the side of the bridge and see how it's sitting naturally
once it's perfectly flat like ___ you're done.
don't forget to clean the guitars fretboard and stretch the strings

hope I could help
@Tallwood: Thanks, that's good and clear advice on how to do it, Ididn't know you had to do all that