I bought a used Squier "vintage modified Jazzmaster" for very cheap, even cheaper than new price. But my issue is; I've had issues with Squier hardware/wiring/electronics in the past and when I get some time I'd like to upgrade these parts with Fender.

My question is does anybody know or have had experience with these parts all being direct changeover? In other words, I don't want to exchange the bridge assembly with a Fender for it to be slightly different. From my understanding the Squier is modeled after the '64 Jazzy if that helps.

Also just out of curiosity, from a parts guitar I've had in the past I have a Fender Jazzmaster neck (Mexican classic player I think) that I'd probably end up putting on the Squier just for the hell of it. But since I didnt get the Squier yet does anybody know if the neck heels are the same?

Long story shortl; are al Squier Jazzmaster necks and hardware interchangeable with Fender Jazzmasters?

Thanks for your help.
I had a squier probably the same series and the electronics seemed fine. But if you really want to swap everything go with either CTS or Bournes. Just make sure that the holes are the correct size.

CTS is what Fender uses on American Deluxe fenders for example.

now the diagram I'm going to google some more on this. It's kind of murkey how they describe the little toggle switches but at the end of the day they are SPST switches pretty much so you can do some cool mods with them.
I feel like the only part that may or may not fit "properly" is possible a Fender neck in a Squier body, because of model/era specifics.

Electronically and the hardware I'm sure if they aren't an exact fit, they can be fit with some tweaking.

Will look into those companies though, thank you!
With CTS pots from the standard import ones on pickguards like the lowest end squiers out right now I remember I'd have to widen the holes with a round file. It's not too much extra effort so I'm sure you can do it.

as for necks the only time I'd worry is if it's a 25.5 scale neck to a 24.75. I've sold more necks than I can re-call and usually that is all that anyone accentuates on. The only concern with vintage is the holes for the tuners being 9.14mm which vintage style tends to be or the modernized 10mm to me. 10mm practically every brand makes and it made life easier changing or upgrading parts.

in regards to pots though
for a volume pot the greater the resistance the brighter it becomes say 250 to 500 or darker 500k to say 100k. Linear (B500k) over logarythmic (say A500k) this is a good reason why I go with linear you get this effect without any extra components needed to be soldered to your guitar below. Other than that the smaller the capacitor for the tone the less treble it takes away and the larger the resistance of the tone pot the more sensitive it is.