#1
Hi all,

I have a KH-202 that is really starting to boil my piss haha. The space between frets and strings is rediculous, how would i go about lowering the action from the floyd rose?

Sorry if there has been a similar post somewhere else


Cheers!
#2
The height of the saddles on an FR is adjustable, just look up one of the (many) setup guides(like this one), or videos on youtube.

Don't go straight to adjusting the bridge without checking neck relief etc first, though.
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#4
The action adjustment on a Floyd is done by screwing in/unscrewing the two posts on which the knife edge pivots. A more difficult way is using a selection of shims under each saddle but I think that has more to do with the fretboard radius.
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#5
You need to lower the studs/posts the Floyd pivots on to lower the action. You can not lower the height of the saddles individually unless they are already shimmed, which they are not from the factory. If you already have the Floyd lowered as far as it can go and you have a bolt on neck, then you can shim the neck to get your action lower.
#6
Quote by JimPlaysGuitar
The action adjustment on a Floyd is done by screwing in/unscrewing the two posts on which the knife edge pivots. A more difficult way is using a selection of shims under each saddle but I think that has more to do with the fretboard radius.

might sound silly, will i need to remove the strings before doing this or could i get away with just seriously slackening them off before i start screwing the FR further down?
#7
No need to remove or even slacken the strings. Just retune when you're done. You may need to adjust the claw screws in the back cavity to re-level the bridge but only if you've drastically lowered the bridge, this might happen.
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Last edited by JimPlaysGuitar at Dec 20, 2014,
#8
slacken your strings first. i've seen conflicting advice regarding this (even from supposed pros), but i work on the basis that slackening won't hurt anything, whereas not slackening might.

or at least i've worked on that basis since i tried not slackening first and thought i did damage to my trem
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#9
I've never had any trouble adjusting the action with the strings at full tension. you'll just have to re tune after adjusting and possibly adjust the springs in the back cavity as Jim said. I don't see how that could possibly mess anything up.
#10
it might blunt your knife edges. which is bad.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

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Et tu, br00tz?
#11
Not any more than tuning would. It's effectively the same as tuning your guitar up a quarter step (if that) and then you tune it back down. That's if you're raising the action. When lowering the action it's the same as tuning your guitar down a little bit and then tuning it back up.
#12
No it isn't. tuning affects the angle of the trem. it doesn't grind the knife edges against the posts.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#13
Quote by Dave_Mc
it might blunt your knife edges. which is bad.

this is what i was afraid of as i seen somewhere that it could blunt the knife edges making the guitar constantly go out of tune
#14
Quote by Dave_Mc
No it isn't. tuning affects the angle of the trem. it doesn't grind the knife edges against the posts.
I would imagine even tuning down, the springs are still pulling the bridge hard against the posts. Still, not much more effort to tune down to be safe.
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#15
^ Yeah that's kind of the approach I take- if I'm wrong and I slacken the strings, no harm done (apart from slightly extra effort involved). If I'm wrong and I don't slacken the strings, harm is done.

Admittedly, as I said above, it took me until I actually did harm (or at least, strongly suspect I did harm) to have the sense to adopt that approach.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#16
Slacken the strings and the springs when adjusting he action. The grinding of the post against the knife edges ruins them. WHen the bridge is being used normally, the bridge isn't being so heavily abraded and the hardness of the steel that the baseplate is made from can handle the pressure, but it can't if you're adjusting the posts with the strings still tight.
Quote by Rikah
seems as right bitch to sort out

If you think adjusting the action requiring the slackening of the strings and the removal of the springs is a pain in the butt, wait until you need to adjust the intonation on it.
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