#1

i just bought this pickup but there is only one wire coming from it? is that how its supposed to be?

What supplies do I need to install it into my guitar? I have a solder gun deal but no experience. do i need extra wire? thanks.
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#2
That's not one wire. It's three wires braided together. Check the Lace website for wiring diagrams. IIRC the green & white are grounded and the orange/red is hot.

You need a soldering iron (~40 watts, soldering guns are usually far too powerful and will smoke your electronics), some resin-core (not acid core) solder, and a screwdriver. There are plenty of tutorials on youtube for installing pickups.
#3
unshield the wire with wire strippers or scissors (if you are careful) and there will be a bare and an insulated wire. So one will be almost like human hair for the bare wire and one will have a bit of plastic around it.

it's an either or thing. So like bare doesn't have to be ground because it's simply in and out for the wires. Now 5 wire single coils or humbuckers.. totally different story!

ok so what wire goes where?
you need to be able to select it .. so hot lead to the selector. If there is no selector on the guitar to the "tip" portion of the input jack where the guitar plugs in

now you need the sound and vibration from the pickup to go out to the amplifier. So you need to "ground" it. You can ground a pickup anywhere on the guitars electronic. The back of a "volume pot" is ideal. However without a selector to what is called the "Sleeve" portion of the input jack.

this is a wiring schematic site to help. I use this site all the time
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/
Last edited by Tallwood13 at Dec 20, 2014,
#4
Okay, thanks. do i need any desoldering braid?
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This thread topic is gold. I've been on this website for 8 years and I've never come up with anything like this. So yeah. Great job TS[457undead].
#5
Quote by 457undead
Okay, thanks. do i need any desoldering braid?

this is what im talking about


will this work for my solder?
http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/soldering/40-60-rosin-core-wire-solder-063-1-4-lb-carded/p-1456904-c-8533.htm idk why its in the plumbing section

also my solder heater is 25w so will that work? do i need any extra wire?
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Last edited by 457undead at Dec 21, 2014,
#6
If you are just replacing a pup then you probably won't need extra wire. But it always good to have some.

rosin core solder is fine. And your iron will work fine. Look up some videos about soldering and pup replacement and do NOT rush the process, or you will create a lot of problems.
#7
Quote by sonic_hippy
If you are just replacing a pup then you probably won't need extra wire. But it always good to have some.

rosin core solder is fine. And your iron will work fine. Look up some videos about soldering and pup replacement and do NOT rush the process, or you will create a lot of problems.

what about desoldering braid?
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This thread topic is gold. I've been on this website for 8 years and I've never come up with anything like this. So yeah. Great job TS[457undead].
#9
Quote by Roc8995
No.

how do i detach the wire then?
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#10
You touch it with the soldering iron, the solder melts, you pull the wires apart.
#11
i am putting the soldering iron on the connection and the only thing it is doing is making the wire black?
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#12
Quote by Roc8995
You touch it with the soldering iron, the solder melts, you pull the wires apart.


Does all pickups like this? I am a newbie.
#13
Quote by 457undead
i am putting the soldering iron on the connection and the only thing it is doing is making the wire black?

Make sure you're not touching the wire insulation with the iron. It takes a moment for the solder to melt, but you'll see it when it happens. When the solder melts, pull the connection apart.

How long it takes for the solder to melt depends on the size of the area you're trying to heat up and the temperature of the iron. If you're just desoldering 2 thin wires, the solder melts very quickly. But if you're desoldering the ground wire from the back of a potentiometer (pot) for example, it can take longer because the metal casing of the pot will conduct some heat away from the solder joint as you heat the joint up. The casing of the pot needs to get hot first before the solder melts, this means you need to heat up a larger area, which is why it takes longer.

It helps to use the broad side of the tip instead of the point on the end of the tip to heat the joint up because the larger area conducts the heat a little bit better.

Remember to always tin the tip of the soldering iron with some solder at all times. If you don't and you try soldering, you'll damage the tip. This is because as the tip of the iron gets very hot, the heat causes the tip of oxidise rapidly. Tinning the end with solder insulates the tip from oxygen to prevent this from happening, and it also helps with transferring the heat of the iron to the solder joint you're trying to melt better.

If you're still having trouble getting a joint to melt, feeding a little bit of solder next to (but not on) the iron helps transfer the heat better by providing a larger surface area for heat to conduct, accelerating the melting of the joint.

I'd also wouldn't advise breathing in the smoke that comes off of the melting solder (the smoke is the rosin melting) as it's mildly carcinogenic. Breathe out as the smoke rises from melting solder and you should be fine.

I'd seriously suggest looking up some youtube tutorials on how to do soldering on guitars before attempting to do more.
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