I have a couple of questions which need clarification.

I am about to put a neck on a body and need to place the bridge.
To get the placement of the bridge would I be correct in thinking that
I measure from Nut to 12th Fret then place the bridge the same distance
from the 12th fret.

As such do I measure from nut and fret?

I am placing a TOM bridge, as such do I need to angle the TOM, if so what angle
or is it perpendicular to the neck.

Finally the string through ferrules how do you calculate the distance the ferrules need
to be from the bridge.

Thanks.
I'm not sure on the bridge placement but I'm pretty sure you're on the right Track.

All my TOM bridges have a slight angle but I have no way to measure exactly what it is but I can tell you my C-1 has approximately 1/8th of inch more distance from the bridge pickup on the bass side of the bridge versus the treble side.

The string ferrules are approximately 2.75 in from the center of the bridge and have a slight angle to there position similar to how most saddles are set.
Many thanks.
You're on the right lines regarding the bridge distance. However, there is something important that you've missed out.

You need to measure from the nut to the 12th fret, but when you measure from the 12th fret to the bridge, be sure to add 3/16" (you can convert that to metric and decimal if you need to) to your distance, when trying to get a final location for your bridge. The extra 3/16" is there for compensation, so that you have allowed for the bridge to be adjusted further back if it needs to be to get the strings to intonate. If you don't take this into account, you risk installing the bridge too far forwards and you won't have enough throw in your bridge saddles to compensate.

On a guitar with a TOM bridge, you need the guitar to have a 3 degree neck angle relative to the body. The reason for this is due to the fact that TOM bridges sit rather high off the body of the guitar (as guitar bridges go), because of how tall the bridges themselves are. If you mount a TOM bridge on a guitar that has a neck that runs parallel with the body (0 degrees), then you'll never be able to get the action low enough, even if the bridge is lowered as low as it can possibly go, because the bridge itself is so tall. Recently on GB&C, a newbie to guitar building forgot to take this neck angle into account when making a neck-through superstrat with a TOM, and the guitar was horrible to play as a result. He was forced to learn the hard way.

The distance between the string ferrules and the bridge isn't an exact science. You can realistically place the ferrules as far back on the guitar as you want, but make sure you don't place them too close to the bridge, as the edges of the TOM can bend the strings as they go over the saddle, which tends to break strings, and it looks strange.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jan 6, 2015,
Thanks,

I should point out that the TOM is going on a strat.
I am not putting an angled neck on it but rather recessing the
TOM.

I will add 3/16 to the measurement.

I will still read up on bits before I start the wood work.
If the guitar is a strat with a bolt on neck (or even a set neck for that matter), You're making a lot more difficult and unnecessary work for yourself by recessing the TOM bridge. Just put a shim in the neck pocket that orients the neck at the correct angle. 10x easier than routing the body out.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru

Quote by www.dcj20
dafuq, i kno jokes dont wwork when u hav to explain them but now im confused. was the mention of a "bugera" amp a euphemism for anal sex ?
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jan 6, 2015,
The string length is a bit more than the scale length, and greater on the bass side than the treble side. The string length is twice the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, so the string length is (2*nut to 12th fret) + a bit. Stewmac give measurements for the correct placement of various bridges and different scale lengths.

I just checked my three TOM bridges, and in the two in which the saddles are well-centered, the post at the treble side is exactly twice the scale length, about 1/8" more on the bass side. On the third one the saddles are forwards of centre on the (SG, not TOM) bridge, and the treble post is about 1/8"more than scale length. This suggests that the treble side post only needs to be the same as the scale length.

EDIT. My positioning corresponds very closely to that calculated with te Stewmac calculator:

http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

= 25.06" treble side for a 25" electric scale, and 1/16"to 1/8"on the bass side for a TOM.
Last edited by Tony Done at Jan 6, 2015,
thanks, I will consider shimming the neck, rather than recessing the TOM.

However as I need to fill the trem void recessing might not be such an issue.

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