So on my Ibanez, I want a new nut so I can use the trem. Its a FAT-10 tremolo, and is a non-locking floating trem. Well it was until I blocked it. When floating, the tuning was a pain due to the fact that it was a floating trem. Upon blocking the trem, It now stays in tune like a dream.

I want to use my whammy bar though, so one day I took out the blocks on the trem. To my amazement, It stayed in tune well enough for me to play through Kickstart my Heart and a few Van Halen tunes with extra whammy abuse before abruptly losing its magical tuning stability when I adjusted the spring tension slightly to make the bridge even (By the way I forgot to point out that the posts are screwed down as far as they can go and the trem is still blocked at the front making it dive bomb only which helps the tuning stability). So I blocked the trem back up .

I am under the impression that a new nut and possibly locking tuners may help with the tuning stability when the trem is not blocked. The current nut is a horrible little plastic thing that is so soft I accidentally chipped a bit off with an old string when changing them. However, It keeps tuning fine when the trem is still so I hadn't thought of replacing it.

So will the trem stay in tune better if I get a new nut? And if so, what nut? A Fender LSR roller nut is the same size as mine but I'm not sure of the string spacing. This is the guitar if it helps: http://www.ibanez.co.jp/products/eg_page14.php?year=2014&area_id=2&cat_id=1&series_id=9&data_id=108&color=CL02

That is a really cool looking guitar. This is coming from a guy who isn't big on Ibanez either.

locking tuners to my understanding make it easier to re-string but besides that 18:1 (lets say) gear ratio is 18:1.Anything 10mm shall do the trick holes wise just make sure that they line up in the back to secure.

a floyd rose locking nut is usually the best option.
Graphtech Tusq , a bone nut cut by a luthier or a brass nut are 3 other options.

Just make sure that the tremolo is sitting flush (Flat) to the surface of the guitar body for optimal tuning stability.
I don't buy the premise that locking tuners improve tuning stability. A well-strung and well stretched in non-locking tuner will perform just as well in my experience. They just make the guitar easy to restring.

An LSR Roller nut is a good idea though. I'd also strongly suggest getting roller string trees.

However, improving the nut and the string tree is only half the battle. The bridge needs to be good quality for the tuning stability not to suck. And the FAT-10 bridge is pretty crap imo. I know because I have a GIO that has one. The knife edges are pot metal. But I guess if you're only using the bridge as dive-only, you can somewhat mitigate this issue by cranking the springs in the back down, so that they overcome the friction created by the worn knife edges. It'll make the bridge stiffer, but it will stay in tune better.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jan 8, 2015,
Thanks for the replies guys. First of all, about the roller string trees, my guitar has an angled headstock so It doesn't have them. Secondly, would it be worth it if I bought a new neck routed for a locking nut (I don't know if that would be good though since the bridge doesn't have fine tuners)? And about the bridge being flush to the body, the posts don't screw down that far, they leave a few millimeters space, but the trem is blocked on the side closest to the claw, so it acts in the same way.

Lastly, I happen to know that an OFR has the same post spacing as the FAT- 10 but I think the routing is slightly too small. Are there any non locking drop in replacements that would fit it?