#1
Hey, new to the forums and not entirely sure if I posted this in the correct place, but anyways. I have an Epiphone SG Special Goth that I've had kind of as a running project. I've installed GFS red actives running on 18v, roller bridge, and a kill switch. I love the way it sounds and plays but I have one major issue. The 3rd string will not intonate, it remains sharp even with the saddle topped out. Mind you, neck and string height are set very well. I run 12's tuned for D standard/ Drop C, all the other strings tune in fine. I bought the roller thinking it might of just been a shitty bridge, but to no avail. SPECIAL NOTES: all strings on the treble side seem like they needed way more adjustment than usual, and the 3rd string sounds really dull and just ugly. I've tried multiple string gauges and tunings just to see, but the same issue re occurs. I really like this guitar and I don't want to get rid of it, and any help to fix it would be great.
#4
Did you have intonation issues with the old bridge?
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#6
If it was happening with the stock bridge too it could be the bridge was positioned incorrectly during construction. I doubt that's the case but if it is you might be able to patch it up if you can find a bridge with more travel for intonation (like a harmonica one).


That or reposition the bridge.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#7
This is what I've been afraid of hearing. I really like this guitar, and I honestly probably have more money invested in parts than the guitars worth alone. Bridge re-position is a big fix from what I've heard. Just looking to see if anyone know of any alternatives.
#8
I agree, the bridge is in the wrong place. Stewmac have a calculator for bridge position:

http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

Here's the rough guide. The scale length is twice the distance between the nut and the crown of the 12th fret. Eg Distance between nut and fret 12.5", scale = 12.5 *2 = 25"

This is the calculation taken from Stewmac for a 25"scale:

Tune-o-matic style bridges

25.061" (± 0.030") from nut to center of treble-side post. Mount bass-side post 1/16"-1/8" further from the nut.


As you can see, the treble post should be just over 25" and the bass post another 1/8"or so.

You can get a bit more leeway by using an SG-style bridge instead of a TOM.
#9
Just measured it, treble side is 24 5/8, bass side about 24 7/8 nut to post. I'm assuming this is an issue?
#11
Quote by JCrave94
This is what I've been afraid of hearing. I really like this guitar, and I honestly probably have more money invested in parts than the guitars worth alone. Bridge re-position is a big fix from what I've heard. Just looking to see if anyone know of any alternatives.



Yeah first of all, determine what your current scale length is like someone above has suggested.

It appears from the photos that the saddles are at their max setting to maximise the string length. Would I be right in assuming you need a fraction more length in adjustment? Without knowing how far out the intonation is at this setting, if it's only a few cents you could possibly try the below.

Before you go looking for a drop in bridge with greater adjustment range, you can probably get a few millimetres of extra scale length out of the nut by moulding the nut so its point of string break is slightly behind where it is now. This most likely involves getting a new nut and chamfering and contouring it as nuts normally are angled up to the point of the zero fret. Keep the old one handy in case the end result still doesn't provide enough adjustment. Intonation at both ends of the string is a valid concept.

This will give you slightly more scale length if that's what you need, which then could be corrected to within range of the saddle adjust.

Probably worth a try and a lot less invasive than having to reposition the whole bridge? If you do it yourself and it doesn't work as expected, you're not out a whole lot.
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#12
Quote by Phoenix V
Yeah first of all, determine what your current scale length is like someone above has suggested.

Before you go looking for a drop in bridge with greater adjustment range, you can probably get a few millimetres of extra scale length out of the nut by moulding the nut so its point of string break is slightly behind where it is now.


That puts all the frets out, most notably the first, which will go sharp
#13
My G400 did something very similar and I fixed it buy setting the string a cent flat when open then all of the frets are hitting correct and you will not hear it audibly.
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#14
I don't know where to find one but I know someone made wide throw bridges in the 90's for this reason, I had to get one for a Lotus Les Paul copy. I can't remember what company made it and my internet connection is too flaky to do any searching tonight, I'll try to remember to look around tomorrow. Wish I still had that guitar actually...

Basically it's a tune o matic bridge, but wider than normal which gives the saddles more adjustment room. Fits right onto the standard bridge posts.

Almost posted and saw something. Unless my eyes are fooling me it looks like you have more room in front than in back, try turning the bridge around so the adjustment screws are in back of the bridge. See if that gives you a little more adjustment room, it look slike it might if what I'm seeing is correct.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...