Hey everyone, I'm new to UG and my guitar has been doing this for quite a while. Its an Ibanez ARZ400 and When I bend the high e and b strings or the low e string past the 12th fret or so, the string hits the saddle and the note craps out. Is this something that can be fixed by a simple adjustment or would I have to take this into a shop?

The problem you're describing doesn't make any sense.

What do you mean by 'The string hits the saddle?' the strings are in constant contact with the bridge saddles. That's what they're designed for. Are you referring to the string hitting the frets under the string as you bend? Because that would make a lot more sense.

If the notes are fretting out on specific frets, that strongly suggests that your guitar has a high fret. If every single note past the 12th fret frets out, then your guitar's action is too low.

Giving us pics and/or audio samples of the problematic area would be very helpful.
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Only one other thing I know of Toodeep didn't already cover. Set neck guitars can sometimes develop a hump where the neck joins the body, resulting in high frets similar to what he's thinking of. But it's the entire neck that's high from there on, rather than just a fret. Only real cure I know of is a neck replacement.

My Takamine acoustic had this problem, I finally filed the last few frets down enough to clean it up, but it's still not right, the hump is still there and visible. A neck replacement would cost as much as a good replacement guitar, so I fixed it as best I can and live with it.

I've seen this on brand new guitars still on the shelf, probably because they don't cure the wood well enough before building guitars with it. In days gone by, wood was cured naturally by allowing it to completely dry in an open air but controlled environment intended for that purpose. These days it's kiln dried and not dried good enough, wood shrinks and warps after the guitar is on the shelf, resulting in that hump I'm referring to, warped necks, twisted necks, all kinds of problems I never saw 20 years ago. I found an acoustic not long ago in a music store brand new with a hump where the neck joins the body, doing exactly what your guitar is doing. Showed the store sales people and they pulled it off the shelf, thinking their so called guitar tech could fix it...by adjusting the truss rod...which is why I never let music stores touch my guitars.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Last edited by Paleo Pete at Jan 19, 2015,
I know that the string are always in contact with the saddle, it's just hard to explain it without seeing it. I'll make a video and post the link. And there's no hump on the neck or anything, but the action is pretty low. I brought it into a shop and that's how they gave it back to me. I spoke to a few people there and one of them said that some woods just don't have as good of a resonance as others but I don't think that seems to be the problem.
The video didn't work out and I couldn't get a good picture of the high e string with the camera I have so this is a picture of the low e.


Each string rests between these two pieces on the saddle and when the strings are bent, they sort of touch the edge of that piece, and that stops the strings from vibrating. Hopefully this helps
OK the piece closer to the camera is the bridge and the individual pieces are called saddles. Something doesn't look right, you shouldn't have that bend in the string at the saddle, the bridge and retainer ( can't remember the proper name for it) look like they are not he same size. String spacing of both should be the same so the strings go through in a straight line.

Being out of focus I can't tell a lot, and not sure i Like that type of saddle but can't be sure just what it is without a better shot.

With most digital point and shoot cameras, if you hold the shutter button down halfway it lets the camera focus. Most will show a green rectangle or square where the focus is. Then push the shutter button to take the picture, see if you can get a better shot that way. (I've also been a photographer for over 30 years). Maybe that will get a clearer shot and we might have a better idea what's going on.

From what you describe it sounds like the saddle slot is too wide, and if the small E has a bend like the large E that might affect it too. Try for a better shot and let's go from there.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Weird looking bridge. I think I get what the OP is saying, and I have to think (just picturing this in my head after 2 min of reading a little about Gibraltar III bridges online) I would think the problem is caused by either the saddle notch sitting too far back (which means thre would still be metal to the sides of the string in front of where the string gets choked off) or there is no definite notch and it's just a rounded metal depression (which would mean it can slip around and touch other things, net effect being the same). I don't have one to look at so I can't be certain.

Have you tried maybe lowering the tailpeice to make the strings put more tension on the bridge? It could help if the problem is that the string is slipping around. Just avoid lowering it so much that the string bottoms out or touches another pasrt of the bridge behind the saddle as that could mess up your tuning or in worst case, cause strings to break earlier if the back edge of the bridge is sharp.
Sorry, for tho poor quality on the picture. And I was bending the low e for the pic to show what's happening during bends, it doesn't look like that all the time. And looking at the bridge now, I think Roc may be right, it might be something as simple as it being backwards. I don't know why it was like that in the first place but I'll try to flip it. Also, will doing this alter the intonation or action at all?
Yeah, that is not right, string should always be straight, from nut to mount. I doubt it would come out of any factory like that so someone must have done something