Hi guitarists. I am a new member. Nice to meet you all~~

Maybe there were posts already addressed similar problems, but I can't find it so I decided to make a new thread.

So I have played my acoustic guitar for about four years and now I want to adjust the truss rod because the strings at 12th fret are so far away from the fretboard, which I always become tired so quickly when barring at higher frets. I have never made any truss rod adjustments on my acoustic guitar before and I just learned how to do it from websites few mins ago. I believe I should turn clockwise to tighten the truss rod, right? However, I can't even turn the truss rod a slight, neither counterclockwise or clockwise. I don't know if it's because the truss rod is at the body under the fretboard where the strings are bothering me to adjust, or because the truss rod has never been adjusted before and it stuck? I have already put so much pressure, and now my thumb is hurt

Is it normal that the truss rod being so hard on an acoustic guitar? Just remember I adjusted my electric guitar before and it was pretty easy to turn. My acoustic guitar is Yamaha FG700S, a beginner guitar suggested by Guitar Center. I got myself a 5mm L-shape Allen key to adjust.

Please help me and thanks~~ I always wish to get more advance but it's just so hurt to barre at higher frets
Last edited by sacredX92 at Jan 31, 2015,
Are you sure the truss rod needs adjusting? If the action is the only problem you need to lower the saddle and/or nut depending on where it's too high (probably saddle in your case). If you're certain that you need to adjust the truss rod, it shouldn't be too difficult to turn so don't force it. I don't know enough about them so don't take my word on it, but if you can't turn it at all there may be a more serious problem with it. Good luck with it!
i find that the truss rod is often quite hard to turn, but it can also be frozen in place so it can't be turned..

if you have a problem with the action, you shouldn't be adjusting the truss rod at all. the truss rod's function is to add or remove curve to the neck, so while it may make that 12th fret closer, it will make the middle of the neck farther away and harder to play. if you need your action adjusted, you need to address that at the nut and saddle.
Quote by Skeet UK
I just looked in my Oxford English Dictionary and under "Acoustic Guitar", there was your Avatar and an email address!
It's called neck relief. Both responses are right, it's not the truss rod you need to adjust. Its only purpose is to provide neck relief. The strings vibrate in a pattern similar to jumprope. Wide in the middle, almost nothing at the bridge and nut. That means the middle of the neck, around the 7th or 8th fret, plus a few in each direction, needs to bow slightly away from the strings to avoid fret buzz in that area. The only time you adjust the truss rod is when it has fret buzz in the middle section of the neck or if you check it and find it does not have proper neck relief. Which is .010" to .015" in most cases, depending on your playing style and action.

Check it by putting a capo on the 1st fret then fretting at the 12th to 14th. Use a feeler gauge or similar item the proper thickness to gauge whether you have the right clearance at the 7th or 8th fret.

What you are describing is high action, strings too far from the frets near where the neck joins the body. Both responses are also correct in that respect, adjust it at the saddle.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Oh, now I get it when I searched online (I don't know anything about the saddle or checking neck relief) after reading what you all have said. So what I should do is adjusting the saddle instead. I don't know if I am dare to trim it myself, but I will go ahead to try. Thanks for helping~~
The high action may be due to the neck relief having increased, so reducing the relief might be the correct way of fixing the high action in your case. Never alter the saddle height without first checking that the neck relief is OK. Only alter the saddle after the neck relief has, if necessary, been adjusted. Some of my guitars are susceptible to changing neck relief, which affects the action height. - The correct fix for these is the relief, not the saddle.

Truss rod nuts can be stiff, especially if they have been standing for a while. Since the truss rod nut is inside the body, I'm guessing that you have to use the log arm of the hex wrench to reach it. The short arm won't give you enough leverage, so I stick a piece of metal tube on it to make it longer. If it feels stiff, I take it and the washer off completely and lubricate them.