#1
Hello

I'm wiring my guitar back up but I'm a little stuck, I don't wire much if I'm honest. But I'm just a little stuck when it comes to the 3 way switch. I don't under stand the symbol and where exactly I need to solder. I've looked around and found the legs numbered but it'd help if someone would explain a little to me.

I am following the liberator diagram
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I found this diagram that is labeled like the one on the liberator diagram
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then I found this which shows it labeled as if you was looking at it in person
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it's a custom build, my friend built it for me. But it's a 5 way switch, think its a cheap and nasty one off ebay. So I was thinking that I could buy a 3 way switch. I know 5 way switches can be used still like. (Invalid img)

I think it is definitely a fender style one, I'd like it 3-way. But where exactly would I need to solder on it to that liberator diagram? I took it out to show you properly.(Invalid img)

I've soldered and screwed everything in place to the diagram just need to know where these 4 cables are going to the 5-way switch
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#2
I have a liberator in my room right now and it's covered in dust. They are great for trying out various pickups but I like soldering more. I have a bunch of blogs on here to give you some tips and knowledge on here to help you wire up guitars and do practically any mod within reason.

getting back on track though, I like import selectors a lot actually, not saying they are better but for soldering them in they are so much quicker to do anything I want. My 2 band EQ mod I call it to wiring up a 3 way blade toggle is much quicker with them.

on the import 3 and 5 way blade toggles it's the same principal. However the best way to wire them is the guitarelectronics.com way I've had really bad luck with the Seymour Duncan way.

ok so with 7 or 8 contacts inline this represents two poles, this is the contacts
1
3
5
0 (sometimes there is only one "0")
0
1
3
5

0 is called "Common" and is used to activate half the selectors contacts which is why we have two of everything .Two poles two sets of the same numbers. With a 3 way blade toggle or 5 it follows the same pattern just how you wire it will be different. In fact you can use a 5 way blade for two pickups and get what is called an "auto split" or whatever mod done right.

so when soldering in pickups stick to one set of poles to make life easy
1 bridge
3 middle
5 neck
0 hot lead (left contact) on volume pot
0 soldered to the other common" as it's going to the same place
1 - bridge tone (for example)
3 - middle tone for example
5 - neck tone
in fact you can solder the other 1/3/5 together and have a master tone and another effect or something

but wait we have 5 positions on the selector. So the pole controlling the pickups
position 1 - just bridge (0 / 1)
position 2 -bridge and middle (0 / 1 / 3)
position 3 - middle (0 / 3)
position 4 - middle and neck (0 / 3 / 5)
position 5- neck (0 / 5)

and the other pole we can do whatever we want with it. Auto split , auto tap whatever the mod is called to whatever.

as for converting one seymour duncan (lets say) diagram for a strat just put the contacts in line like so.
Last edited by Tallwood13 at Feb 1, 2015,
#3
Hello, thank you so much for your reply it really helps. I do understand it just I'm still a little confused and lost as to where I'm hooking these last 4 wires into the 5-way switch
#4
alright I'll see if I can help

so assuming two pickups and a 3 way blade toggle like what I mentioned it's still easy. On a 3 way toggle like on the jpeg that seymour duncan mentioned there is 4 contacts.

the two inner ones are commons, ground (signal out) and hot lead is the other. You can wire them any way you want. Now the other two on the selector switch are the pickups of course so how the selector points at them is where they are selected.

that being said..
the white wire going to the middle contact on the 3 way toggle = hot lead (0)
the black wire that is furthest away = ground (I'd solder this to the back of a tone pot and then another wire to the "sleeve" of the input jack.

now the switch has "life" lets put the pickups in.
near the front of the pot there is a bunch of contacts the one near the red/white wires that is black on the very left and very right are hot leads to the pickups. So on a 3 way blade toggle.
the furthest left = bridge pickup (on a 3 way blade toggle 1/3 (pole #1)
the furthest right = neck pickup (on a 3 way blade toggle 3/5 (pole #2)
since you'd be using two poles remember to solder both 0s together.

hope I could help, lets hope there is no string grounding issue. If there is I have a few tricks left.
#5
I have 2 Humbuckers and a 5-way switch. I've been trying to follow the liberator diagram, but I'm stuck now because I have a 5 way switch and on the diagram has a 3-way switch on it. So now I'm unsure where exactly I need to connect these 4 wires to my 5-way switch.
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This is how my guitar is wired up
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this is my 5-way switch
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I have used braided wire, I've grounded it on the back of the tone pot is this right? that what is shows on the liberator diagram
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#6
3 way blade selector diagrams (not toggle like on a les paul) and 5 way blade selectors work the same, like how I mentioned the 13500135 pattern. the contacts are inline so the same pattern applies.

the only difference an import vs USA blade selector is the import one all the contacts are inline. With the 3 vs 5 way blade toggles for imports the only thing different is how many positions you have. So say position 2/4 share some contacts. The 2nd position shares 1/3 and position 4 shares 3/5, makes sense when you wire or draw it out.


with ground wires pot to pot
you want it to trail out of the guitar. So have a ground wire from the pots to tone pot and out to the "sleeve" of the input jack is the main path.

the string ground
put it on the tone pot, interesting fact you don't have to solder all to the same blob of solder to get things to work. On seymour duncan diagrams they use two blobs of solder. One for all the stuff that shouldn't be changed and one for the pickups ground.

fuse this diagram with the liberator. All the wires coming off the volume pot that are going to the selector use a bit of process of elimination. I'll photoshop this later if you're having trouble.
#7
Thank you for your reply, I appreciate it sorry if I'm hard work.

Yeah it make a lot more sense when drawn out, it's the liberator that's making it harder for me. because the pick ups are screwed into the liberator then there are wires that comes from underneath the liberator both sets of red and white are soldered together then the green and the grey are soldered together leaving 2 black wires that need to be attached to the switch and two braided wires I had to solder/screw in that have to be attached to the switch. Just now need to find out where exactly they go on the switch, so have I got that wire I said that I thought I have grounded right? the braided wire shield soldered to the tone pot which goes to the jack, it's just that's what it shows on the diagram


thank you again
#9
I'll have a diagram later today. If anything this can confuse people thinking potentiometers are harder than they look. All they are is signal in (hot lead) , signal out (ground) and the middle contact controls the % of say volume; that is called the wiper. I've got a bunch of blogs on here I write out of boredom to teach people all about electronics in guitars as it's a side business for me.

to answer your questions though
ground every pot and have the strings grounded somewhere on the guitar, so you are right. If there is a grounding issue either the guitar won't work or buzz like crazy when plugged in.

and the other question
with a 3 way blade switch
1/3 (top half) - bridge pickup (contacts #1 and #2)
3/5 (bottom half) - neck pickup (contacts #6 and #7)
use the middle contact (#4) to go to the hot lead of the volume pot
#10
Quote by Tallwood13
I'll have a diagram later today. If anything this can confuse people thinking potentiometers are harder than they look. All they are is signal in (hot lead) , signal out (ground) and the middle contact controls the % of say volume; that is called the wiper. I've got a bunch of blogs on here I write out of boredom to teach people all about electronics in guitars as it's a side business for me.

to answer your questions though
ground every pot and have the strings grounded somewhere on the guitar, so you are right. If there is a grounding issue either the guitar won't work or buzz like crazy when plugged in.

and the other question
with a 3 way blade switch
1/3 (top half) - bridge pickup (contacts #1 and #2)
3/5 (bottom half) - neck pickup (contacts #6 and #7)
use the middle contact (#4) to go to the hot lead of the volume pot


Alright thank you, yeah that's the reason for copper shielding and braided wire. My mate wired my guitar for me and it buzzed like hell. I just want to silence it as much as possible, I know humbuckers already cancel sound out like. Alright so basically I've grounded one pot being the tone pot? The diagram you're uploading will it be a full wiring one including the liberator? I'm waiting for my schaller tremolo to come so I can't test it yet. But I can't yet really anyway cause I haven't soldered my switch. Just realised you can't see the connections of the 5-way switch. Here is the full diagram I have been following www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=LB1_1v1t_LBVOL, you can probably now tell me now where the wires should go
Last edited by Jovo_Holmes at Feb 4, 2015,
#11
I've copper shielded a bunch of guitars over the years too and it does help.

this shall help. don't forget the string ground on the back of the tone pot from the inside of the guitar.
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#12
Quote by Tallwood13
I've copper shielded a bunch of guitars over the years too and it does help.

this shall help. don't forget the string ground on the back of the tone pot from the inside of the guitar.
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Thank you so much, I really appreciate your help. Do you mean a wire from the pot to the back of the guitar on the claw where the springs are? That's what my mate did. A wire on the back of the tone pot to the tension claw
#13
that's the one, with strats and guitars with floyd roses that is where they ground. It's so much easier than say a les paul.
#14
Quote by Tallwood13
that's the one, with strats and guitars with floyd roses that is where they ground. It's so much easier than say a les paul.


Do I need to solder the braided wire cover also or not?
Thank you so much again, for your help. You've really helped me out, my floyd rose should be here today. So I should be able to test it, I'll let you know if I have any problems
#15
take a photo just for assurance, if you want to send me a private message on here it can help as I get emails much sooner than on here as I spend more time on facebook these days.

with grounding its a trail out of the guitar
the back of each pot
to the sleeve (input jack ground)
you can solder the string ground anywhere and it'll be fine
you'll know your guitar is properly grounded if there is no annoying buzz.
#16
Quote by Tallwood13
take a photo just for assurance, if you want to send me a private message on here it can help as I get emails much sooner than on here as I spend more time on facebook these days.

with grounding its a trail out of the guitar
the back of each pot
to the sleeve (input jack ground)
you can solder the string ground anywhere and it'll be fine
you'll know your guitar is properly grounded if there is no annoying buzz.



Alright I'll have a go and I'll let you know, Have I only grounded one of my pots then? I didn't know they both needed doing? I'm going to solder a wire from the back of the tone pot to the tension claw. Do I need to ground the volume tone? How would you go about that with it being a liberator pot? Once I solder it up. I'll try my best to take a clear and a easy photo to follow and I'll send it to you. Thank you
#19
to connect the tone pot it's simple
see the top row in the original diagram how there is two white wires coming from it? those are all hot leads.

so.. anything up there is your hot lead to "activate" the tone pot. It connects to the ground (left contact if the pot is facing the same way).

for the grounding
sleeve is a must, otherwise signal won't leave the guitar. Think about it like walking to guitar center and not making it back haha. Everything mentioned must be done to the guitar for the electronics to work.

so just follow the green lines and all.
#20
Quote by Tallwood13
to connect the tone pot it's simple
see the top row in the original diagram how there is two white wires coming from it? those are all hot leads.

so.. anything up there is your hot lead to "activate" the tone pot. It connects to the ground (left contact if the pot is facing the same way).

for the grounding
sleeve is a must, otherwise signal won't leave the guitar. Think about it like walking to guitar center and not making it back haha. Everything mentioned must be done to the guitar for the electronics to work.

so just follow the green lines and all.



Well I've grounded the sleeve on the tone pot not the jack, the wire that connects from the tone to the jack. Will that still work the exact same or not? Or do I have to ground the sleeve to the jack? (Invalid img)
#21
it's a start, pretty much we ground the pots because it gets rid of buzz.

however.. ground the entire circuit to the input jack at the sleeve for some signal and don't forget the string ground from the claw because without those two the results will not be very good.
#22
Quote by Tallwood13
it's a start, pretty much we ground the pots because it gets rid of buzz.

however.. ground the entire circuit to the input jack at the sleeve for some signal and don't forget the string ground from the claw because without those two the results will not be very good.


So solder the sleeve at the jack? Even though the sleeve has been soldered to the pot. The same wire that is connected to the tone pot to the jack? I thought I'd test my guitar, Think I've grounded it right. Doesn't buzz at all, got one problem though. The 5-way switch, it doesn't let me change pick up. It cuts the sound out at the very top and the very bottom. The braided wire cuts out my guitar fully, because they touch each other, so I need wrap them in something
#23
the sleeve on the input jack can go anywhere, tone pot works nicely.

as long as you make a path going pot to pot to the input jack you're fine.
ground the strings to any of the pots and you're fine.

try it out just like this and you'll have good results. I wire up guitars all the time. All of these are ground wires. All of them are needed. Missing one you'll either have no signal (sound) or an annoying buzz.
#24
Quote by Tallwood13
the sleeve on the input jack can go anywhere, tone pot works nicely.

as long as you make a path going pot to pot to the input jack you're fine.
ground the strings to any of the pots and you're fine.

try it out just like this and you'll have good results. I wire up guitars all the time. All of these are ground wires. All of them are needed. Missing one you'll either have no signal (sound) or an annoying buzz.


Alright, well I've done that correctly then. I don't get any buzzing whatsoever, only problems I am having is. My guitar cuts out because of the braided wire. So I need to wrap them with something to stop them contacting one another. And also my 5-way switch isn't working correctly, when pushed to the top and bottom the guitar is cut out. But the other 3 settings are exact the same, doesn't let me change the pickup
#25
try it and see

there is not enough electricity going in and out of a guitar to damage anything. the worst that can happen is either an annoying amount of buzz or no signal at all.
#26
Quote by Tallwood13
the sleeve on the input jack can go anywhere, tone pot works nicely.

as long as you make a path going pot to pot to the input jack you're fine.
ground the strings to any of the pots and you're fine.

try it out just like this and you'll have good results. I wire up guitars all the time. All of these are ground wires. All of them are needed. Missing one you'll either have no signal (sound) or an annoying buzz.


Hello

My five way switch ain't working right, position 1 no sound, position 2 no sound, position 3 sound, position 4 sound, position 5 no sound. It doesn't allow me to change pick up either. I soldered the wires in the correct places. I even worked out myself where the wires would go. Should I maybe look into getting a 3-way switch like the diagram has?
#27
Quote by Tallwood13
try it and see

there is not enough electricity going in and out of a guitar to damage anything. the worst that can happen is either an annoying amount of buzz or no signal at all.


My guitar works, but seems to trip out at times for a few seconds then kicks back in. Could this be to do with the switch, jack or the braided wire? I have tapped al the wire with masking tape. So they don't touch