#1
Hey! Help would be greatly appreciated!!

I'm doing up an old guitar and have bought a pre-wired pickguard to save the hassle at the mo of re-wiring new pickups as I'm still very much a novice at guitar making!! However.. the pickguard itself has three wires coming off it.. a red, a white and a black one.. I've looked online and in many guitar books but there's only mention that two wires should come off it.. One for the Jack and one for the claw on the back of the bridge by the tremolo springs..

I've looked at a couple of my other guitars and they have the cable going to the jack socket split in two for both connections.. Any suggestions as to which wire I should put where?

Thanks a lot in advance!!!
#2
Where are the wires connected to? Pictures help in this case.
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#3
All the wires are coming off the volume knob..

I'll put pics up when I get home as it isn't coming through at work I'm afraid..
#5
I sent an email to them but am yet to hear a reply.. hence wondering if there was just a generic wiringi to follow..
#6
Where on the volume pot are the wires attached?

I'd guess there are 2 attached the the back face of the pot - which are likely to be ground wires - one of these goes to the trem claw, the other goes to the sleeve connection on the jack socket.

If the 3rd wire should be attached to one of the tabs on the volume pot thaat will need to be connected to the tip connection on the jack socket.

Still probably best to post a pic to be sure.

EDIT: I think my advice about the ground wires may be wrong. This diagram may help you work it out:
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUSSS5L1201/Strat-Style-Guitar-Wiring-Diagram.html
Last edited by WeZ-84 at Feb 17, 2015,
#7
You'd never have just one wire for the jack. That doesn't make sense, it needs a ground. Not sure what books you're reading but jacks don't work with just one connection.

You need one ground to the trem claw, one to the jack, and the hot wire for the jack. Conventionally the black would be the trem ground, white the jack ground, and red the jack hot. Ground goes to the jack ring, hot to the tip.
#8
if it's one thick wire with two little wires in it that is what you call double conductor. For strats this would mean..

the unshielded bare wire goes to the sleeve
the shielded wire portion goes to the tip

this will help, look at sleeve and see how it's metal all the way to the base of the input. If you stack cardboard and tape it together until it's bigger than the jack and drill through you'll have no problem soldering the wires into the guitars jack.

my advice for beginners
tin everything:
the wire ends so they are metalic and stiff at the end
freshly tin the soldering iron tip for better heat transference (helps big time)
and the input jacks contacts. There should be a wall of solder covering the holes but don't worry this is step 4

in the end You want to heat up a wall of solder and poke the wire through. This provides the best connections. As always 60/40 solder I recommend most.

so with double conductor it makes it easier for smaller holes to get wires through. Focus on where the wires start and finish. It's a way to cut factory costs. I usually use two wires to do this myself.
Last edited by Tallwood13 at Feb 17, 2015,
#9
The only thing I can think of I can add to what Tallwood already posted is...

the shiny chrome everything is made of does not like to take solder very well. I use paste flux, and a foam board fingernail file to scuff the surface of new chrome parts, solder sticks a lot better. Doesn't take much, just buff it with the fingernail file and scuff the surface a little, solder will work lots better. Also use a wet paper towel or sponge to clean the soldering iron tip, every time it's used. Natural sponge, it will melt artificial. Natural sponges can be found at Hobby Lobby and other craft shops. And that little blob of solder on the tip works wonders for melting solder, a dry tip will take forever. All you need is a tiny drop of solder melted onto the tip, it will melt solder really fast once things have been tinned and you are ready to solder.

Work fast, don't leave the soldering iron tip sitting on a contact point long, and if a pot gets hot, let it cool before trying again or soldering another connection. If it's done right and everything is tinned, everything but the ground connection on back of the pot should take no more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you don't know what tinning is, melt a blob of solder onto the iron, then melt that onto the wire or connector. Then and only then solder two parts together. I use paste flux, it works better, only a little is needed. Flux helps the solder flow better and cleans the contact. Flux core solder never did work well for me, so even when I use it I still use my paste flux. Do not use acid flux, it will corrode electronics in a hurry. It's meant for other uses.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Last edited by Paleo Pete at Feb 17, 2015,
#10
Thank you all!!! ))

Your help is greatly appreciated and it now works perfectly!! Out of interest, it was the black wire the the claw at the back while the other two went to the jack socket!

Thank you!!!
#11
That's what I thought but wasn't sure so I didn't say. Didn't want to get you into a mess...but a couple of my guitars have a ground wire to the claw that's black, and a couple have a bare one. The others just about had to go to the jack, but I couldn't be sure so I kept quiet.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...