I recently was given a MINT 1967 Fender Bassman Amp Silverface. It was missing the fuse cap so I ordered a new cap. I could only find 2A regular fuses, NOT Slo-Blo. I have it in stand by and turn it on and get no power but I see when I pop the fuse, it's blown. I did pull out the PCB and everything looks very clean. No diodes look cracked, nor does the wire. It was stored in a house since new, indoors and was powered up every few months although not ever used. It was a older lady who recently passed away that kept it after her son died in a car accident in 1968. It is absolute original and mint with a 2 x 12 cab and a 4 x 12 cab. As stated powered but NEVER used since 1968. I have another set of tubes for it, brand new, was thinking the tubes are bad but it has been powered up until it got brought to my studio and the fuse cap was missing. (I think it may have been taken, or come loose and lost in the move)

I am a computer tech/electronics specialist and I am more that able to service it myself, and I have every tester going. I am just very busy with work. I have never serviced this particular Bassman head so I would like to save time and ask here if anyone has experienced this head and problem. It is a 50w.

Any tips would be great. Once again, by no means am I lazy just lacking time and hours in a day to troubleshoot it.
The first stop when blowing fuses is to check/replace your power tubes. Failed tubes will do it nearly every time. The next thing to consider is original filter capacitors may be leaking/bad. Remember that working inside a 67 blackface tube amp, lethal current is stored in those capacitors. Use caution.
"Your sound is in your hands as much as anything. It's the way you pick, and the way you hold the guitar, more than it is the amp or the guitar you use." -- Stevie Ray Vaughan

"Anybody can play. The note is only 20 percent. The attitude of the motherfucker who plays it is 80 percent." -- Miles Davis

Guthrie on tone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmohdG9lLqY
^ hes got it right.

also if it needs slo-blow's get slow-blows. they are spec'd that way for a reason.
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youre just being a jerk man.

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Absolutely, and all the caps, resistors, diodes are perfect and test perfect. I was leaning towards just replacing all the tubes and keeping what ones still test good later. I have GT's for it. I just hated replacing the Bogen's that are in it. The nice thing is there isn't a speck of rust or corrosion anywhere on the head or the cabs so its easier to diagnose.

Tubes go bad fast when not played.