Hi there,

I've been trying to lower the action on my guitar, but I can't get it right. I adjusted the truss rod and my neck is now straight as far as I can tell. I also lowered the bridge. I have a buzz the lower frets but still high action on the higher frets.

I have a Jackson KVXMG with a floyd rose bridge.

Here are some pics of the situation:

I also measured the distance between lowest string at the first fret, which is 2.0mm(.07""), and the last fret which is 3.5mm(.013"").

Anybody have a clue what it can be?
What you're seeing is normal. All guitars have progressively higher action as you get to the higher frets. If you've really done a good job, the action at the 12th fret and 24th fret should be almost exactly the same.

The action of your guitar at the nut is too high though. Everybody prefers a nut action at different heights, but as a general rule, the nut action on the 6th string should be 2/3rds the diameter of the 6th string itself, and the 1st string should be about twice the diameter of the 6th string itself.

The neck isn't quite as straight as it could be either, but that's irrelevant. Of course you're going to have fret buzz on the first 7 frets or so with a neck that straight. The neck should have some degree of relief to allow room for the strings to vibrate. 0.5mm @ the 7th fret is acceptable. The truss rod is not designed to completely straighten the neck. It is designed to allow you to control the amount of relief it has, so that you can give the neck a degree of relief for optimal playing.

The fact that you lowered the action once you've straightened the neck, means now that you'll need to loosen the truss rod, which'll raise your action up, which you'll need to lower slightly again.

Remember to never adjust the mounting posts of the Floyd under string tension, as it destroys the knife edges of the bridge. If you want to adjust the action safely, you need to loosen all the strings off and take the springs out first. Its tedious, but that's just what you have to do when you've got a Floyd.
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I also have to do that. Cottaging this weekend
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Mar 29, 2015,
The neck shouldn't be dead straight, it should have a slight relief, otherwise you have the problem you have noted. If you get the relief and bridge height just right, you can achieve a setup where the action is actually lower at the highest frets than it is at, say, the 12th fret.
Ok, thanks for the reply. I'll try adjust it a little better. Also thanks for noting that I should loosen the strings when adjusting the action. They didn't mentioned that in the manual.
It's hard to tell but is the 6th string actually sitting in the saddle? What gauge are you using anyway?

As an aside there's far too much string wound around the tuning peg.

Nice guitar, btw.
Thanks I'm pretty satisfied with it overall. The gauge I'm using .011's (Ernie Ball beefy slinkies). Now that you mention it, the 6th string does have a little trouble fitting in the saddle (it's as difficult to see with the real thing as with the photo). Could that be a problem? I doesn't feel that the 6th string plays more difficult than the 5th or 4th...

As for the peg winding. I used to barely replace my strings, until recently. So I need to get some more experience with that
Yes, the strings have to sit in the saddle. If they don't I'm sure it'll ruin your intonation among other things. It also looks like the 6th string is coming off the top of the tuning peg and not the bottom. That one I would restring for sure, making sure it sits in the saddle first.
Last edited by dthmtl3 at Mar 30, 2015,