#1
I have an LTD with a licensed Floyd on it, which is great since I've blocked it to be dive-only, except it's a low profile design, which means an intonation tool doesn't work on it, so (being pretty broke most of the time), I've been looking at the aftermarket licensed Floyds that fall between the garbage and the good Floyds, like the OFR, Lockmeister, Gotoh etc.

The ones I've seen from relatively respectable companies are these:
http://www.mightymite.com/mmbl002c-p-601.html
http://www.allparts.uk.com/collections/guitar-bridges/products/locking-tremolo-system-w-1-5-8-inch-nut
http://www.guitarfetish.com/NEW-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Locking-Floyd-Rose-Trem-BRASSSTEEL_p_518.html
http://www.guitarfetish.com/Floyd-Rose-Fastloader-locking-Tremolo-System_p_260.html (Cutting this out of the running since it seems untrustworthy at best)

GFS "Heavy Duty" is the only one I've been able to find decent feedback on, and that mixed.

Can anyone vouch for the quality of any of these?
Will any of these remain reliable if they're left floating?
Does anything besides the sustain block matter if I keep it dive-only?
I measure the post spacing on my LTD to be 75mm (centre-to-centre) though that's with a mediocre ruler; will any of these fit?
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Last edited by K33nbl4d3 at Mar 30, 2015,
#2
The Allparts one appears to be a Schaller. At least, at that price the ones from the US Allparts are Schaller and look identical.


I put in a fast loader for someone a while back. It's okay, but only okay.
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#3
I don't see the point of Speedloaders.

Having the strings be held in position by string tension alone doesn't work when the bar is completely dived and the strings are slack. Nothing is preventing the strings from moving inside of the bridge, and potentially not going back to the exact position they were before the bar was dived, and causing the guitar to go out of tune.

I thought the OFR was designed in such a way to specifically prevent this from happening. Designing a Floyd without it just makes the bridge a glorified Fender strat bridge with fine tuners.

If I'm wrong, please correct me. But I'd avoid Speedloaders, Fastloaders etc like the plague.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Mar 30, 2015,
#4
two suggestions I always think of on ebay. Both tend to have free shipping too.

the special on ebay is around 50-60$ american , you can upgrade the block to a brass big block when you get some extra cash and some better saddles.

the bridge baseplate is steel on the special. But besides that it's all zinc like the licensed.

the original 1000 is made in Korea. On a good day you can get one on ebay for 100$. . The 1000 floyd rose is all steel so a much better sound. I'd still do a brass big block on it... or just put one on a licensed. It compensates for the amount of wood lost from inside a guitar body from all the routing. After using one I can't see myself playing a floyd rose without it.

this is the brass big block.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sZ3w_Qwq2Q
Last edited by Tallwood13 at Mar 30, 2015,
#5
Quote by Tallwood13
two suggestions I always think of on ebay. Both tend to have free shipping too.

the special on ebay is around 50-60$ american , you can upgrade the block to a brass big block when you get some extra cash and some better saddles.

the bridge baseplate is steel on the special. But besides that it's all zinc like the licensed.

the original 1000 is made in Korea. On a good day you can get one on ebay for 100$. . The 1000 floyd rose is all steel so a much better sound. I'd still do a brass big block on it... or just put one on a licensed. It compensates for the amount of wood lost from inside a guitar body from all the routing. After using one I can't see myself playing a floyd rose without it.

Appreciated, if I have the cash at some point I'll probably go for the Special, though I don't think it's quite so cheap here as in the US. The only thing I'm still not certain about is that I'm pretty sure the post distance is at least a little wider on my LTD, somewhere between 74.5 and 7.5 or so... Would it still work alright?
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Youre officially uber shit now.

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3d9310rd is far more upset than i 

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I'm a moron tho apparently and everyone should listen to you oh wise pretentious one
#6
I'm about to buy the GFS brass and steel one for my Franky. I can't imagine it being bad as everything I've bought from them so far is a bang for your buck.
#7
yeah if the trem knife edge is good a brass block will certainly be worth it. I upgraded the block on my Agile to the brass and it works much better and aside from limiting some of the range from being bigger than the previous block in mass and thickness it's still worth it. If the knife edge is good to start with.
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