#1
Hello! I am putting together a jim root tele. I have the fender body and am painting it matte black. I'm throwing in some bare knuckle aftermath pickups. I need to get a neck for it though. I'm going with warmoth. I was either going to get a maple neck with ebony fretboard from warmoth (with no drilled holes on the heel since it has the contoured heel) or else there is a good deal on reverb.com for a mahogany and rosewood neck. finished with a tusq nut. what would i be better off with? also the mahogany one already has the holes drilled, will it make a tonal difference re drilling the one hole to fit the contoured heel?
#2
Quote by mcchinnigan
will it make a tonal difference re drilling the one hole to fit the contoured heel?



No.


Given the amount of gain you're likely going to use with this guitar, what wood the neck and the fretboard are made from is going to be completely imperceptible tonally as well, outside of placebo.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Apr 20, 2015,
#3
What, specifically, makes a Jim Root telecaster?
I'm aware of EMG pickups on his. Anything else non-cosmetic?

I'd go with a new neck. Known quantity, because there's no guarantee that ANY of the holes are in the right spot.

Note that Warmoth necks do NOT have finished fretwork (they state that clearly). You'll still want to run it to a good tech for fret level/crown, etc. And make sure that you have some kind of finish (other than an oil finish) on the neck. Might want to go with a matte lacquer to preserve that "unfinished wood" feeling on the back.
Last edited by dspellman at Apr 20, 2015,
#4
Quote by dspellman
What, specifically, makes a Jim Root telecaster?
I'm aware of EMG pickups on his. Anything else non-cosmetic?


Besides a mahogany body...no tone control, flat board at a 12 degree radius, and locking tuners.

I'd go with whatever neck was easiest to install personally. I wouldn't think it would make a huge tonal difference though.
#5
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE


Given the amount of gain you're likely going to use with this guitar, what wood the neck and the fretboard are made from is going to be completely imperceptible tonally as well, outside of placebo.



Unless he's running the gain on anything past 7 then its not gonna make a difference.

Less gain (around the 3-7) you'll pick up the difference in woods.
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I had a point but ive forgotten what it was..


EDIT: on topic, id always pick ebony cause its my fave.
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#7
Maybe if you cut a massive hole in the body, but no it wouldnt.
I shouldn't post when drunk..



07 LTD MH400NT SD SH2/SH5
15 Jackson SLATHX-m 3-7 Slime green
Squier std tele (modded to hell)

Engl Powerball
Laney Ironheart 60h
Zilla Superfatboy 2x12 v30's

Pedals
#9
Quote by mcchinnigan
what are the difference in sounds between mahogany and maple?

You won't notice any with what your doing. but in general Mahogany = dark and smooth, Maple = bright and snappy
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#12
I concur that for this project you should choose your timber based on how it looks and feels moreso than tonal expectations. There is a difference between maple & mahogany necks & boards but it's normally trumped by a whole lot of other more influential variables.

Check that the position of the neck pickup will allow 24 frets. Sometimes the extended board encroaches on the route.

I recommend making sure there's room in your budget for nice big stainless steel frets. Also, Warmoth's roasted maple necks . Second sexiest thing you'll ever touch. And they smell like pancakes.
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#14
Quote by JBailey23
Besides a mahogany body...no tone control, flat board at a 12 degree radius, and locking tuners.

I'd go with whatever neck was easiest to install personally. I wouldn't think it would make a huge tonal difference though.


Actually he uses a 12"-16" radius but that's just nitpicking.

You could ask warmoth how far the extended fretboard juts out from the end of the neck. Measure from the neck pocket to the pickup cavity. You can do the math from there.
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#15
Quote by mcchinnigan
how would i tell if the body wouldn't allow 24 frets?


On 24 fret necks, the extra frets are usually accomplished by extending the fretboard (cantilevering) an extra inch or thereabouts toward the neck pickup. You need to be able to accommodate that extra extension, that's all. This will often mean that you need to change the rout for the neck pickup. On most guitars meant for 21-22 frets, those extra frets are fairly deep into the body and access can be difficult.





http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/FretboardExtensions.aspx
Last edited by dspellman at Apr 22, 2015,
#16
Yep. The magic number is the distance from the back of the neck pocket to the front of the pickup route*. As long as the cantilever (1.062 inches in the example above) measures less than that you should be fine.

* This does not account for any pickup mounting rings you may choose or need to use. If you're thinking of re-routing the pickup cavity to accommodate 24 frets you're probably going to want rings to cover the gap left behind. So you'll need to allow an extra few mil.

I'll give you the hot tip: If it won't fit, stick to 22 frets. The JR sig is 22 anyway.
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Last edited by Danustar at Apr 22, 2015,
#17
Quote by TheStig1214
Actually he uses a 12"-16" radius but that's just nitpicking.



It's compound on the Strat and JMs. IIRC it's straight 12" on the Tele. But yea, still nitpicking