#1
No, I don't want to order a pre-made cab and just put a speaker in. Real men make their own things. So I've been playing with the idea of making my own cab for kicks. I'd like to have my VK on stage with me so I can mess with the knobs without having to go to the back where I mic the amp. Also, I like the look of having an on-stage amp c:

I plan on making it the same dimensions of the VK's (combo) cab. 1x12, open back. Cable port in the back/maybe side.

So I have a few questions, mostly just from a practicality aspect.

- Is solid plywood fine? 5-ply? Not looking for boutique response here, but nothing worse than the VK's combo cab.

- I think I'll put in block reinforcements in the corners. Anything against?

- The speaker jack: Should I go about any process to isolate the jack as a whole? Should I get a certain type, or is any normal 1/4 jack fine? Mounting doesn't seem to be any issue.

- I presume that the + lead goes to the tip, and the - lead to sleeve.

Thanks for your help c: If I end up making the cab, I'll post some picatures c:
Last edited by Will Lane at May 4, 2015,
#2
Plywood type and thickness depend on the size of the cabinet and whether or not you're going to be brutalizing it in transit. The 13-ply birch voidless plywood used in a lot of cabinets is not actually necessary, but it's convenient for manufacturers and tough to injure.

You can put it together with glue (Loctite PL Premium comes in a caulking gun cartridge and it's really the glue of choice here), some brads and some borrowed furniture clamps. One gizmo you might want to actually buy are a couple of those corner clamps to maintain a 90 degree angle while gluing.






The corner braces may or may not be necessary. A surprising number of builders of expensive 4x12 cabinets actually leave them out.

On the other hand, this is how the 1x12 EV cabinet (what Mesa called their Theile cabinet) is put together:



It's insanely heavy for a 1x12.

You might also consider NOT putting tolex on the thing. Here's an option:

http://www.parts-express.com/acry-tech-duratex-black-1-pint-roller-grade-cabinet-texture-coating-kit-with-textured-3-ro--260-100?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

And an option for the quarter inch jack.



Check a place called http://www.speakerhardware.com for more bits and pieces...
#3
The VK Combo is made out of really bad particleboard. The broken side of my VK212 is testimony to that, so I'd say pretty well any cabinet grade plywood you can get will work.

Those corner clamps are kinda silly to buy for this to be honest. I guess if you got them, why not, but then again I have nine of them and leave them out. Just use a tape measure and check your corners and check them with an engineers square if you really find necessary.
..I was watching my death.
#4
Quote by timbit2006

Those corner clamps are kinda silly to buy for this to be honest. I have nine of them and leave them out.


You ARE Canadian, aren't you? Ship those suckers down to me; I'll put them to use <G>.

You're right, of course; for a 1x12 they're probably not all that necessary (how out of square can you BE?), but I love those suckers.
#5
Quote by timbit2006
The VK Combo is made out of really bad particleboard. The broken side of my VK212 is testimony to that, so I'd say pretty well any cabinet grade plywood you can get will work.


Friend of mine bought a cheap cabinet for his son, kept it in the basement. After a while, he noticed that one side of it seemed to be bulging a bit under the tolex. He poked the bulge and found nothing but mush; the particle board underneath had gotten wet somehow and had completely lost integrity.

It also has pretty much no resistance to impact.