#1
Building my first guitar from a donor basswood body. No idea wether it is cheap or decent wood but I'm happy with it. This is a follow along topic and I'll be capturing the major steps of this build.

http://i.imgur.com/7nEN5nt.jpg

Sanded the backside first and took it to P120 (medium coarse) but was a pain in the butt to get through the lacquer so...

http://imgur.com/nIF8Z4R

Took the heat gun to remove the lacquer and the top layer of paint from the front and sides. Took half the time, half the mess but it does ook pretty funky.

Question:

http://i.imgur.com/wCs6seq.png

The blue circle: should i attatch a ground from the tremelo spring plate to the volume pot?

The red circle: I have never done wiring before so is this one continuous wire or two attatched to the same connection?

The green circle: I'm looking at the old tone ots and they both have a capacitor attatched to them. Will it really be ok to just use one capacitor?

EDIT: Changed to linked images for neatness
Last edited by GrnGbln at May 8, 2015,
#2
Blue Circle: Yes. Attach a ground wire to the trem plate and volume knob case.
Red Circle: Two pieces of wire. But you could use one piece with some creative wire stripping.
Green Circle: One cap may be fine, but they are cheap. I would put one on each.

Your body should be fine. Basswood will make a decent enough guitar.
Harmony: Stratocaster
Alvarez: F-200
Schecter: Omen 6
Fender: BXR-60
Dean: Metalman Z Bass (Betty)
Egnator: Tweaker 15
Pearl: Maximum
ESP/LTD: EXP-300
Custom: Harley Quinn Bass
Custom: TK-421 Explorer
A steadily growing supply of pedals
#3
Thank for replying. What difference will adding another cap to the other tone knob make? I'm not stuck on using only one, I was just been a good sheep and following the diagram.
#4
Nice start on the build there. I prefer using individual switches for the pickups so I can get more combinations. I really like using bridge and neck pickups together. You can look into a Fender TBX tone control they are more useful on guitars with darker sounding pickups but you can get some good tones out of it. They basically have a treble bleed on one side and a bass bleed on the other.

Great paint can't wait to see it in action.
#5
Great paint? I haven't even stripped the damned thing yet

On that topic though. here are some more pics:

Sanded the paint left after taking off the lacquer and used a damp cloth to wipe off all the dust and make the grain show clearly:

http://i.imgur.com/h2Fh69T.jpg

It looks rather nice in my opinion.

As I was sanding the sides I noticed a difference in colour on the wood and I believe now that I still have another layer to take off. I'm not sure what it is (as I've never done anything like this) but it can be seen rather clearly in this photo:

http://i.imgur.com/GOw9vIP.jpg

The lighter part (around the neck and "horns") is, I believe, the actual wood wereas the slightly dark area (the remaining body) is some form of sealer or varnish. Am I correct in this and is it nessecary to remove this layer to effectively stain?
#6
By the by, do I need to apply a sanding sealer before applying the dye to the guitar?
#7
I don't think basswood has an open grain, so you shouldn't need to seal it before dyeing.
Harmony: Stratocaster
Alvarez: F-200
Schecter: Omen 6
Fender: BXR-60
Dean: Metalman Z Bass (Betty)
Egnator: Tweaker 15
Pearl: Maximum
ESP/LTD: EXP-300
Custom: Harley Quinn Bass
Custom: TK-421 Explorer
A steadily growing supply of pedals
#8
Been just over a week since I've updated this last, apologies for the delay, I don't often have the time to get work on the guitar done as of late. Anyways:

Finally got all of the sealer off the entire guitar (damn you horns!):

http://i.imgur.com/MN11M3u.jpg

Filled in the tremelo backplate and pickguard screw holes using cocktail sticks, a hammer and a nail punch:

http://i.imgur.com/yWFa9qM.jpg

The red circle shows the cocktail sticks before hammering them in place and the blue circle shows them once they have been knocked down.

The sticks sand down pretty damned well in my opinion:

http://i.imgur.com/xqmUGzJ.jpg

Since the holes are not particularly flush all around I saved some of the sawdust from the sanding which I'll mix with some wood glue (when it arrives :/ ), apply over the filled holes and sand it down once it has dried overnight.

I'll update again once I've applied the glue/sawdust paste and I've had a chance to sand the guitar all the way to p240. Then it's dying time.
#9
Finally got the time to sand the guitar down properly from p80 to p240. The cocktail sticks and glue + sawdust combo filled the screw holes perfectly:

http://i.imgur.com/G96DI9B.jpg

Also got the time to make a test stain on a scrap piece of wood (I didn't have any basswood to hand so I settled for pine (I think...)). The colour doesn't come across well in the picture but it is a deep and vibrant blue:

http://i.imgur.com/WdWqbRe.jpg

That's all for now folks!
#11
Daaaaaaamn, that's some complicated wiring right there!

Opinions needed: My Pretend'O'caster will be a blue to black sunburst with clear lacquer; which colour do you think would be suitable for the pickguard? I currently have a pearloid white one but they are cheap enough to replace.
#12
Question: Why would someone use Wet and Dry sandpaper wet as opposed to dry? What are the benefits?
#13
Quote by GrnGbln
Question: Why would someone use Wet and Dry sandpaper wet as opposed to dry? What are the benefits?

Wet sanding is done to get a smooth finish after painting and lacquering. It is not used on bare wood.
When you're sanding with a really fine grit paper, using it wet keeps it from getting clogged up with dust. You can just rinse it with water and keep using it.
#14
Quote by GrnGbln
My Pretend'O'caster will be a blue to black sunburst with clear lacquer; which colour do you think would be suitable for the pickguard? I currently have a pearloid white one but they are cheap enough to replace.

1 ply black
Quote by slapsymcdougal
You can tell if it's eager, because you put your hand down her pants and it feels like a horse eating oats.

Nicest compliment on my looks:
Quote by slapsymcdougal
Putting the 'sex' in 'convicted sex offender'.
#15
I finally finished sanding and staining. I was going to do a blue starburst but I changed my mind and went for straight blue on top of sanded-back black stain. It turned out fairly well, in my opinion, for a first try!

Front:

http://i.imgur.com/5sNITn3.jpg

Back:

http://i.imgur.com/xD4Ypzm.jpg

The piece of wood you see, in place of a neck, on the back shot, is just scrap wood to hold whilst lacquering. I'll be starting that stage either later today or tomorrow.

Solid idea on the 1 ply black, I'll definitely be using that now!
#16
One (or two, I guess, as I spray down then up) layer of lacquer (out of a planned 6-10).

Front:

http://i.imgur.com/xDcAeDt.jpg

Back:

http://i.imgur.com/lt0so1t.jpg

Once dried (overnight) I then smoothed it down with 2000 grit wet sandpaper (which I'll do for the first half of the layers and then up it to 2500 grit). Is that the right thing to do by the way? I've only sanded it once and I don't want to mess it up if I am doing it incorrectly.
#17
I was thinking a SSL-5, SSL-1, SSL-1 b/m/n setup; thoughts?

Also, how much is considered a "normal" amount to spend on a guitar neck?

And lastly, does the resistance of the volume and tone knobs have to match?

Also, I should apologise, updates are going to be thin on the ground for a couple of week as, firstly, I have run out of lacquer and won't have an oppurtunity to purchase any until next week and then, secondly, I have to wait for the lacquer to cure fully.
Last edited by GrnGbln at Jun 5, 2015,
#19
Quote by GrnGbln
I was thinking a SSL-5, SSL-1, SSL-1 b/m/n setup; thoughts?

Also, how much is considered a "normal" amount to spend on a guitar neck?

SSL-5, SSL-1, SSL-1 is a solid choice in my book. Make sure you get the RW/RP one for the middle position.

Normal amount is (as with everything 'normal') completely personal. But I can tell I spend 200 euro on an Allpart neck. Same amount in US dollars should be sufficient to get a good neck. Just look at the proper ones, like Allparts, Warmoth (expensive though), Mighty Mite and Fender replacement necks.

No idea about the knobs.
Quote by slapsymcdougal
You can tell if it's eager, because you put your hand down her pants and it feels like a horse eating oats.

Nicest compliment on my looks:
Quote by slapsymcdougal
Putting the 'sex' in 'convicted sex offender'.
#20
Thank you for the input. I was looking at a guitar neck for around £90, I jsut wanted to be sure that that was in the "normal" ballpark.
#21
So around 140 USD. Check out these. They would be close to 140 USD with shipping. Good reviews too.
Quote by slapsymcdougal
You can tell if it's eager, because you put your hand down her pants and it feels like a horse eating oats.

Nicest compliment on my looks:
Quote by slapsymcdougal
Putting the 'sex' in 'convicted sex offender'.