#1
I have a dremel with polishing wheels, which works I just don't have that steady of a hand and it makes the frets really hot. So I know people use 0000 steel wool, which leaves steel bits all over the place, I just want to hear what other people have experience with and what you feel works the best.

Thanks
#2
Quote by grim1
I have a dremel with polishing wheels, which works I just don't have that steady of a hand and it makes the frets really hot. So I know people use 0000 steel wool, which leaves steel bits all over the place, I just want to hear what other people have experience with and what you feel works the best.

Thanks


i use these:

http://www.amazon.com/EURO-TOOL-POL-695-00-Ultra-Polishing/dp/B0058EDT5G

your frets will gleam with all the brightness and glory that your public demands. 15~30 secs. each fret will create enough smooth bling that would make even snoop dog bow with respect. they won't damage anything either.

fyi:
-if you use a cotton buffing wheel on a dremel, run the rpm slow. setting 2 or 3 on the rpm switch. that heat you're making will: loosen any glues (CA, epoxy, or PVA) often used to bed the frets with, will melt any plastic binding, and will melt any burn in stick used to seal up the fret ends on an unbound fingerboard. use with jeweler's rouge applied sparingly.

-imo, steel wool's a no-no around an electric guitar. the pu's are magnetic and will attract wool even if masked off with tape and ruin your open coil and covered pu's. you've been warned.
Last edited by ad_works at Jun 4, 2015,
#3
Forget the dremel and just use the Cratex polishing wheels for it.

http://www.cratex.com/

You can get Cratex in small wheels and cone shapes for a Dremel, used by hand the grey green extra fine works well, doesn't take long and you won't heat up the frets. I use the 6 inch round sticks I got when working as a machinist, been using them 20 years.

You can also use very fine sandpaper, in the 1000 and finer range, usually available at some auto parts stores.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
#4
micromesh , i work on guitars daily, mostly wirings which explains daily but maybe 100 or so projects since I bought my first pack of it for 15$ (USD) and I've never looked back.

you go from 1500 grit to 12,000 and by the time it's finished the results speak for themselves. If not 3M has some really fine sand papers.

this guy took his time on it but the results speak for themselves. I'd just use a fret guard like stewmac uses but yeah the pads you can do a lot with. Not just frets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Orw9_b5Jg0
Last edited by Tallwood13 at Jun 4, 2015,
#5
Quote by grim1
I have a dremel with polishing wheels, which works I just don't have that steady of a hand and it makes the frets really hot. So I know people use 0000 steel wool, which leaves steel bits all over the place, I just want to hear what other people have experience with and what you feel works the best.



Fret erasers from StewMac:

#6
Whatever ELSE you use, get a good thick piece of heavy leather, and finish off with a good buff using the rough side. Your frets will take on a mirror shine.
#7
Thanks all for the ideas, Did i mention that with a job, 2 kids, coaching, cub scouts, etc, i don't have a lot of time. over the years ive used steel wool (didn't like it because of all the Shavings falling off), the planet waves polishing pads (took too long and shine wasn't great) gorgomyte(frets shined for a few hours then turned green and it smells) and finally the dremel( which as i said got the frets super hot, think i'm using too high RPM)

For those that use the fret erasers ive seen some not so great reviews, how do they work? the Mesh is an interesting idea as well. May try the dremel on low speed. Thanks all. May order Fret Erasers i'm not sure, just know i want to try something that is super easy and quick.
#8
www.gorgomyte.com

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#9
Quote by grim1


For those that use the fret erasers ive seen some not so great reviews, how do they work? .


Mine are pretty new, honestly, and I really haven't tried them on seriously green (corroded) frets yet.

My go-to has traditionally been to tape a plastic bag to the bottom/body of the guitar (to prevent iron bits) and then use steel wool with a fret protector on the frets, followed by the piece of leather. Mirror finish frets. The times I've used the fret erasers, I've had good results, but this was on frets that were generally in decent nick already.

You CAN use bronze wool if you can find it. It's generally something you can find in marine stores (steel wool on a boat will almost instantly rust). Amazon has it.

The issue with steel wool is that those tiny bits that fall into your pickup coils (magnets) rust. In rusting, the iron creates crystals that are needle sharp and that expand, usually piercing the extremely thin enamel coating on your coil wire. This allows the copper wire to begin to corrode, and copper ALSO creates expanding groups of needle-sharp crystals that pierce the insulation of the next chunk of wire. Eventually you get a bunch of microshorts that will reduce the output of your pickup at the least and ruin it at worst. You're left with buying a new pickup or having the old one rewound.

Bronze wool isn't attracted to your pickup magnets and won't rust.
Last edited by dspellman at Jun 6, 2015,
#10
Quote by dspellman

You CAN use bronze wool if you can find it. It's generally something you can find in marine stores (steel wool on a boat will almost instantly rust). Amazon has it.


You can get them at most convenience stores in poor, drug riddled areas, right next to the little roses in the tubes. The crack and meth heads love it
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#11
Quote by Robbgnarly
You can get them at most convenience stores in poor, drug riddled areas, right next to the little roses in the tubes. The crack and meth heads love it


Thanks! I knew your experience would come in handy...
#12
with steel wool use the really fine 0000 kind but of course the best results are micromesh, if you rush it you can have the frets done in 20 minutes tops. the trick is to slightly dapen the pads.

but with 0000 steel wool since it's so fine put tape over the pickups if the guitars electric. I hate using steel wool myself , I'd rather 2000 grit sand paper personally. I probably used a pack of it like twice ever. Martin or Taylor use 0000 steel wool to clean fretboards but it's not for me.
#13
Tape the fretboard, use brasso or autosol, works like a charm. Wear gloves please.
#14
Quote by dspellman
Thanks! I knew your experience would come in handy...

Any time. but all I smoke is weed which the old bible thumpers in Fl still have outlawed
But there are a lot of crackheads in Fl
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
Last edited by Robbgnarly at Jun 11, 2015,
#15
I use a dot of Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner on a soft rag and some elbow grease. Makes those frets pop right up. Tape up the fretboard so it doesn't get into the woodgrain if you have unsealed fretboard.
'It takes 100 guitar players to change a light. One to change the light and 99 to stand around pointing, saying..."Yeah man, look...I can do that too"...'

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#16
I use rubbers similar to those from stewmac (which are AWESOME) and i finish it off with something that translates into "household paper" in swedish. A dry wipe simply, with lots of pressure from my hand. My five cents