#1
'sup bois. So I have one of those trashy Seismic Audio bass cabs. It's a 200w RMS, 8ohm 2x10 with a horn. The horn broke in transit after a gig a while back, thanks to my brother being a bad driver. The speaker still makes noise, but the plastic/ceramic/whatever cone that actually mounts it to the box shattered. Ass you'll see in the pic, the way the cone is attached means I can't really remove and just replace that. So I'm looking to buy a whole new compression driver.

My multimeter reads 7.5 ohms, so I think its fairly safe to say it's an 8 ohm piece. But how can I determine the wattage? I want to make sure whatever I buy can handle my shit. It has no brand or model number anywhere on it, so I can't look it up online, and the Seismic Audio site does not have much in the way of hard facts about what goes into their gear.

On another note, I'm not sure I get how electrical resistance works. If the whole cab, with two speakers and a horn, is rated at 8 ohms, how can an individual speaker in it be rated at 8 ohms as well?

Also, if you have any additional thoughts about solutions to my problem or comments on my poor choice of cab brand, feel free to supply those too.

Pics:


#2
Is there a crossover in the cabinet? What's the size of the horn?

If not, it may very well be a piezo-based tweeter. Most of these don't require a crossover, and simply start chortling away at frequencies such as 1800Hz. Many of these don't present a noticeable resistance load to the circuit (appearing as capacitance instead) so they can drop into an 8 ohm cabinet without affecting the impedance. Some of these handle a LOT of power (up to 400W), but will rarely see that much power directed their way. Most are a bit lower efficiency than the LF drivers they live with, but it takes very little power to produce the same volume in the highs as what the LF drivers are producing.

What's the size of the horn?


Consider looking for something similar to the KSN 1165A.

Or...uh...the KSN 1165A itself: http://piezosourcestore.bestgrouptechnologies.com/model-ksn-1165a-bullet-tweeter/

Prices vary widely, but none are all that out of reach...

Try this, for example: http://www.parts-express.com/grs-pz1165-4-3-8-piezo-horn-tweeter-similar-to-ksn1165a--292-446
#3
Quote by dspellman
stuff you said

There is a crossover in the cab. I think. There's a box thingy in the back that has the input jacks and a pot that I think affected the volume of the horn, although I never really noticed a difference. My understanding is that that's the crossover. The horn is 4" with a 1" throat.

I was thinking it might be something like this http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-bgh25-8-1-bass-guitar-horn-driver-25w--290-5606 but 25w seems a bit low power for a bass cab that supposed to handle a constant 200.

About the piezo tweeters, I don't think it's a piezo because it has this heavy ass electromagnet on it that weighs at least a pound or two, and all the piezos online say their ship weight is well under a pound. So unless I'm overestimating this thing's weight, I don't think it's a piezo. But then the other question is, could I drop a piezo in where a non-piezo tweeter was before and still have it work? Because all I have to do to afford that KSN clone is skip my daily soda at work tomorrow.
#4
It's not a piezo as it has a magnet. Are you sure the driver is blown, it looks like only the horn may be broken. It may be possible to unscrew the driver from the broken horn and just replace the horn for a few $$. If you need to replace it a 25W horn may be enough, There isn't much high frequency energy coming out of your bass and the crossover splits it between the horn and the main speaker. The horn may be a lot louder than the bass unit and the crosover may also have some resistors to limit the power to the horn driver.

Put a signal at low level straight into the two terminals on the horn driver, if it reproduces the sound it is working, it will be quiet and sound very tinny, that's normal.
#5
I'm thinking an email to seismic audio might be in order? Just because it's not on their website doesn't mean they don't know...

Determining the power rating is simple. Hook up a tone generator, a variable power amplifier and an x-y plotter and start increasing the power until the unit fails. Read the x-y plot to see where it failed. The max power is slightly below that...
“Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge.”
Charles Darwin
#6
^ LOL

But yeah, definitely contact them. You'd be surprised how often you email a company thinking it's a long shot, yet get a definitive answer. Worth a try as a shot to nothing, at very least.
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#7
I've never bought a Seismic cab, but I have bought their 16x4 snake and they seem like a legit company that actually supports their line. contact them
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#8
Quote by Phil Starr
Are you sure the driver is blown, it looks like only the horn may be broken. It may be possible to unscrew the driver from the broken horn and just replace the horn for a few $$.


See:

"The speaker still makes noise, but the plastic/ceramic/whatever cone that actually mounts it to the box shattered. Ass you'll see in the pic, the way the cone is attached means I can't really remove and just replace that." -FrauVfromPoB, in the OP, with the candlestick.

I think I'll try emailing them. That seems like the best way to go. I don't have any gigs coming up so it's not a particularly pressing issue. In the mean time, could one drop a piezo tweeter in where a non-piezo tweeter once was with minimal (or no) changes to the wiring? Or would you risk damaging the circuitry?
Last edited by FrauVfromPoB at Jun 12, 2015,
#9
have you tried super glue yet? I'd try that first
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#10
Quote by Robbgnarly
have you tried super glue yet? I'd try that first

I'll try that too. If it doesn't work then it's not any worse off than it already is. I just worry that over such a small surface area the superglue wouldn't hold well enough to support the entire weight of the magnet. Because as far as I can tell it doesn't have any kind of harness or other support. It's hanging free by the cone.