#1
There are a few questions in this thread, and I like to be descriptive so I can get the best possible feedback. So, if long posts aren't your thing, you may want to avoid this thread, lol. Might as well knock all my questions out in one post, yeah? Anywho... answer one, two, three, or all. Any help is appreciated

1. TUBES! I've got the power amp tubes figured out, but I'd like some info on picking some preamp tubes. I like the overall sound of the amp, but it's pretty bright. What should I look for to tame some of the high end (brand wise and model wise)? To add on to that, what/where would be the best spot (V1, V2, V3, etc) for those said tubes? I'm also considering getting a 12AT7 for the phase inverter to add some clarity going from the preamp to the power amp.

2. DRIVE CONTROL! I dig the amount of gain/boost it gives, but it too is also bright (and kind of noisy) with a bit of fizzy/harshness. Tying into question 1, would a certain tube in a certain spot help that out? Maybe a mod? I can deal with the noise, but I'd rather it not be so fizzy/harsh. Or, would I just be better off running an OD to boost it and just not use the bonus drive control?

3. SPEAKERS! I've got an old, late 70s/early 80's sealed Peavey 412 that's built like a tank. I want to drop some new speakers- in an "X" pattern- in it to compliment its tone and to help take away some brightness (if you couldn't already tell it's a bright amp, lol). Because of money and China, I'd like to stay away from Celestion. I'm thinking WGS or Eminence. With that said, what two speakers would be a good choice?

4. MODS? This question falls into question 2, as well as my over all theme of dealing with its brightness. Anyways, is there a mod to tame some noise/harshness in the drive control and a mod that can also help take away some of the amps brightness (maybe replacing/clipping a resistor, cap, etc)? This is more of a feeler question... if I can resolve the fizzy drive and brightness issues without modding, then I won't. But, if push comes to shove and the other possibilities don't get it to where I want, then I can have the mods as a back up plan. And, of course, any modding will be done by a good tech.

That's about it for my questions. To help with answers, I play stoner/doom/sludge (Sleep, Sabbath, Electric Wizard, Neurosis, Mastodon, the Sword, the Melvins, etc). I've got an LTD EC1000 with Lace Dissonant Aggressor pickups. No "always on" pedals; just a volume pedal, reverb and delay (will expand, when the money is right).

Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks in advance to any and all help!
#2
1) I like JJs all around in my VH100R. ECC83s everywhere except I have a 803 in V3 I think (whichever one adds the extra gain stage on the drive channel)

2) Turn down your tone knob? Or turn down the presence if you have that knob. I agree the GH/VH circuit is a bit bright but that's just the nature of the beast.

3) I have one Eminence V128 and another nearly identical but unknown Eminence speaker in my cab. Both sound good but the unknown one is a bit harsher. So I like the V128.

4) I don't get into that stuff. Ask Cath?

Weird how we have almost identical setups though Good luck with your tone quest bro.
Gibson RD Silverburst w/ Lace Dissonant Aggressors (SOLD)
Electra Omega Prime Ceruse
Fender Franken-Jag Bass

Amps and the like:
Laney VH100R
Seismic Luke 2x12
Dunlop 105Q Wah
Gojira FX 808
Line 6 M9
#3
I would pop by the websites of the various speaker manufacturers as they usually have sound clips that will help you identify a darker speaker.
#4
Quote by TheStig1214
1) I like JJs all around in my VH100R. ECC83s everywhere except I have a 803 in V3 I think (whichever one adds the extra gain stage on the drive channel)

2) Turn down your tone knob? Or turn down the presence if you have that knob. I agree the GH/VH circuit is a bit bright but that's just the nature of the beast.

3) I have one Eminence V128 and another nearly identical but unknown Eminence speaker in my cab. Both sound good but the unknown one is a bit harsher. So I like the V128.

4) I don't get into that stuff. Ask Cath?

Weird how we have almost identical setups though Good luck with your tone quest bro.


That is kind of strange... we must have good taste

I have played with the tone knob. It helps, but it seems like I get Goldilocks syndrome. Too much, not enough, etc. Maybe she just needs some extra time and attention.

Does the 803 tube help smooth out the extra drive control? From what I've researched, I've seen a few people suggest them, but not all of them used the same spot or the same amp.
#5
Quote by SMB13
That is kind of strange... we must have good taste

I have played with the tone knob. It helps, but it seems like I get Goldilocks syndrome. Too much, not enough, etc. Maybe she just needs some extra time and attention.

Does the 803 tube help smooth out the extra drive control? From what I've researched, I've seen a few people suggest them, but not all of them used the same spot or the same amp.


I don't know really. I just had it around. I'm more of a plug and play sort of guy. Close is good enough. I have my bass and mids at 6 and the treble and presence at 5 to take the edge off. Thinking of doing a Creamback or Greenback swap on my cab as well.
Gibson RD Silverburst w/ Lace Dissonant Aggressors (SOLD)
Electra Omega Prime Ceruse
Fender Franken-Jag Bass

Amps and the like:
Laney VH100R
Seismic Luke 2x12
Dunlop 105Q Wah
Gojira FX 808
Line 6 M9
#6
1. TUBES: Tungsram and RFT will tame the harshness/shrillness/too much treble

3. SPEAKERS: Vintage 30s all day long, Celestion K100/K85 (you may/may not like them)

Edit: Those are for my VH100R
Last edited by Ippon at Jun 28, 2015,
#7
RFT's are a great recommendation. Otherwise, JJ ECC83S. The ECC803 has a bit more top end than the ECC83S. You use 803's to quieten the noise. Start with 83's.

As for speakers, take a look at WGS Green Berets. That's their take on the greenback. There is also an Australian greenback which is very good. Check out these: http://www.melbournemusiccentre.com.au/pricelist/?lorantz=1
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#8
Quote by SMB13
4. MODS? This question falls into question 2, as well as my over all theme of dealing with its brightness. Anyways, is there a mod to tame some noise/harshness in the drive control and a mod that can also help take away some of the amps brightness (maybe replacing/clipping a resistor, cap, etc)? This is more of a feeler question... if I can resolve the fizzy drive and brightness issues without modding, then I won't. But, if push comes to shove and the other possibilities don't get it to where I want, then I can have the mods as a back up plan. And, of course, any modding will be done by a good tech.

Just pulled up the schematic, you're right, that's a very bright amp. That first gain stage is stripping a ton of bass out that you just can't dial back in. Not sure tube changes would fix this.

Replace C2 with a 22u and R2 with a 1.5k (if after modding you find you need more bass response on the drive you can do the same on C3/R3, but you may not need to do this)

I'd also jumper C6 and replace C5 with at least a 10n. (Personally would use a 22n)

This will put some balls into the amp, and you'll probably find you've got a bit more gain on tap too, so just be aware of that.
Epiphone Les Paul Plus Top
Jet City JCA5212RC (SLO Modded)
Ibanez WD7 Wah
Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive
TC Electronic Flashback Triple Delay
TC Electronic Trinity Reverb
#9
Quote by GABarrie
Just pulled up the schematic, you're right, that's a very bright amp. That first gain stage is stripping a ton of bass out that you just can't dial back in. Not sure tube changes would fix this.

Replace C2 with a 22u and R2 with a 1.5k (if after modding you find you need more bass response on the drive you can do the same on C3/R3, but you may not need to do this)

I'd also jumper C6 and replace C5 with at least a 10n. (Personally would use a 22n)

This will put some balls into the amp, and you'll probably find you've got a bit more gain on tap too, so just be aware of that.


Awesome, thanks! Mine seems to have a decent bit of bass (may just be the cab), but I'll keep that in mind. Once it's re tubed I'll see what she sounds like and go from there. If the brightness is tamed by the first round of mods then hooray! Then I can do the other mod for more bass if I feel necessary

EDIT: GABarrie, when you were looking through the schematic, did you happen to find what tube or part of the circuit is used for the extra drive channel? I'd also like to try and tame some fizzyness that pops up when the drive is kicked on
Last edited by SMB13 at Jun 29, 2015,
#10
V1, it is used by the initial input stage and the additional drive.

The R3/C3 replacement might help too, they're the cathode RC on the drive stage. The low value of the cap could lead to some of that fizziness.
Epiphone Les Paul Plus Top
Jet City JCA5212RC (SLO Modded)
Ibanez WD7 Wah
Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive
TC Electronic Flashback Triple Delay
TC Electronic Trinity Reverb
#11
If you have the money and people that´ll help you carry your cab,

I love EVM12L speakers and their British knock-offs, FANE Studio 12L. They´re heavy as hell and not exactly cheap but they´re fairly indestructable and they sound better than anything else IMHO.
#12
you probably have tried this already, but i found that keeping the drive control below the gain control helped.

eminence v12s should help with the brightness, but might cut the brightness too much, depending on your taste. wgs et65s are quite good too, but i'm not sure if they cut that much brightness (i haven't tried your current cab/speakers).

EDIT: if you really want to go overboard with taming the brightness, the eminence texas heat and swamp thang combo might be worth a try. that'll totally change the character of the amp, though, it won't sound as british. and they'll make it very chunky- and modern-sounding.
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Last edited by Dave_Mc at Jul 1, 2015,