#1
So I have this old Washburn Mercury (Pic 1) series from 1993 sitting around. My guitar guy said he couldnt get it working right (interference/feedback issue) for the money I wanted to spend on it ($0), so I went out and bought a Schecter Syn Custom (black and red) and a cheap RR Jackson (made in India)....but now I want to redo the Washburn.

So I pulled out all the electronics and I am going to trash them. I started sanding (cheaper than buying a heat gun) and got to this layer (Pic 2). I can tell its what makes the pattern after they applied the color, but not sure if I should remove it. I wouldnt be opposed to clear coating it if it had a nice wood grain, but the specs only say "offset double cutaway hardwood body" so I dont know what that means really.... otherwise I will have someone airbrush a design or something on it..

Any ideas, suggestions, etc?


Thank you!



#2
interference and feedback may have been a result of the pickups wax getting too hot, either that or a string grounding issue either way a guitar tech should have known what to do. Even on one of slashes guitars he had to re-pot one of his sets of pickups because of all the hot countries and states he played over the years they really do add up.

string grounding shouldn't really happen on a production model unless the soldering was really sloppy and i've seen some bad jobs in the past.
#3
Quote by Tallwood13
interference and feedback may have been a result of the pickups wax getting too hot, either that or a string grounding issue either way a guitar tech should have known what to do. Even on one of slashes guitars he had to re-pot one of his sets of pickups because of all the hot countries and states he played over the years they really do add up.

string grounding shouldn't really happen on a production model unless the soldering was really sloppy and i've seen some bad jobs in the past.


Thanks for the response. I really didnt want to put any money into it, and he went from a full time guitar tech to part time on the side, so Im not worried about it... No charge no foul LOL. Id rather replace everything and have something that (hopefully) plays nice than worry about 22 year old electronics.

Do you know what that finish is under the paint? Is that a sealer or something? I dont know if I should sand it all the way down to the wood or just leave that on it.
#4
According to google, some of those Mercury models do have a quilt maple veneer.
Quote by Diemon Dave
Don't go ninjerin nobody don't need ninjerin'
#5
it's a veneer of some type , printed or natural. the clue is the dark line in the top edge of the pu routs.

i would stop sanding (assuming you stopped at 220 grit?), blow it off really well with compressed air, and seal it with something that is going to be compatible with your finish choice. if in doubt, de-waxed super blond shellac is the default.
#6
Quote by slapsymcdougal
According to google, some of those Mercury models do have a quilt maple veneer.

Quote by ad_works
it's a veneer of some type , printed or natural. the clue is the dark line in the top edge of the pu routs.

i would stop sanding (assuming you stopped at 220 grit?), blow it off really well with compressed air, and seal it with something that is going to be compatible with your finish choice. if in doubt, de-waxed super blond shellac is the default.



Ahhhhh.... Thank you! Actually Im just in the beginning stages of sanding... I was using 60 or 80 (the clear coat was pretty thick) and tried to only sand till the color was gone. Still have some of the edges to do around the horns.