#1
I needed to replace the springs for the trem and restring the guitar. What I did was remove all the strings and then do the springs (most likely incorrect in hindsight). While re-stringing I've already broken 2. So: Tips/help for getting all the strings on without them breaking, please.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#2
oh man, my sympathies. restringing a floyd atleast initially can be quite a pain. I just installed a OFR on my KH-202.
Steps:
1. Since you have already removed all the strings and springs, loosen the head tuners completely.
2. Install a new set of strings and get em connected to the tuners and the other end to the floyd bridge.
3. drop the floyd into the body and attach the springs.
4. keep a piece of wood or something hard to keep the bridge as parallel to the body as possible and start tuning.

There are a couple of very good video's on youtube that shld help.
Check out this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOC05fO1CLs
My Gear

Epiphone Les Paul Special II
ESP KH-202 with OFR
Hobner Acoustic
BOSS OS-2 Overdrive/Distortion pedal
Dunlop GCB95 Crybaby Wah Pedal
Laney P20 20-Watt 1x8 Amplifier
#3
I pondered strings first... I'm guessing after these steps, adjust the claw as necessary?
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#4
when changing springs things are easier if you block the trem and use the spring claw. what i'll do is measure the gap distance behind the claw to the pocket wall. when you re-assemble, tighten the claw back to that dimension.

how and where are you breaking strings?
#5
High E and B near the nut as I was tuning it. What I did was put the springs on, then the strings, attempt to tune, and then my plan was adjust claw as necessary but I never got that far.

Right now the screws for the claw are as far out as they'll go before they start to come out of the wood.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
Last edited by Maidenheadsteve at Aug 11, 2015,
#6
Update: strings are in the tuner heads/attatched to the bridge, bridge is in the body. Claw is as far back as it goes. What should the order of the stringing be? Usually I tune it EeBAGD, but is that how I should re-string it? And what "should" the claw position be?
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
Last edited by Maidenheadsteve at Aug 11, 2015,
#7
Start by pulling up the bass strings first. You don't have to actually tune it to the actual note at first, you just have to take up most of the slack - but start at the bass end first.
Gilchrist custom
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Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
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Cathbard Amplification
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#8
So I've done each string at a time gradually (E to e in order). At what point do I start to move the claw? I'm aiming for standard E tuning but I feel like I'm gonna run out of room to move the claw (had this problem last time)

Edit: I loosened all the tuners again to have the strings slack and the bridge back down.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
Last edited by Maidenheadsteve at Aug 11, 2015,
#9
After it's tuned.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#10
I tuned it after a couple runs through to get it close, then started tightening the springs. I ran out of room to move the claw and detuning the strings didn't lower it enough. I should be moving the claw towards the wall its screws are attached to, right?
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#11
I have a piece of wood that keeps the trem horizontal against sPring tension. It'll be under the butt end of the trem and stuck in there pretty solidly. Then you run the sTrings up to tune (set the fine tuners to about 2/3 to 3/4 out of the trem. That wood should still be pretty right. Then you tighten the claw until the wood pretty much drops out. At that point you might be slightly sharp. Tune again, lock down the nut and finish up with the fine tuners.
#12
Quote by dspellman
I have a piece of wood that keeps the trem horizontal against sPring tension. It'll be under the butt end of the trem and stuck in there pretty solidly. Then you run the sTrings up to tune (set the fine tuners to about 2/3 to 3/4 out of the trem. That wood should still be pretty right. Then you tighten the claw until the wood pretty much drops out. At that point you might be slightly sharp. Tune again, lock down the nut and finish up with the fine tuners.


Right now the trem is pretty far upright, springs about as tight as can get (Screws as far in as they'll go, so claw as far towards the neck). I can't lower the bridge anymore without going lower than E standard, which I want.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
Last edited by Maidenheadsteve at Aug 11, 2015,
#13
If you run out of adjustment, add a spring.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#14
Any way around this? Already got 3 in.
I was moving the claw the right way, right?
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#15
If you don't have another spring try the 3 in a /|\ setup instead of |||. Gives a bit of extra tension on the outside springs.
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#16
Already have it at \l/; I've got 2 more springs but just seeing if I can avoid the hassle of having to detune completely, loosen springs, add spring, re-tune, re-tighten springs.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
Last edited by Maidenheadsteve at Aug 11, 2015,
#17
Quote by Maidenheadsteve
Any way around this? Already got 3 in.
I was moving the claw the right way, right?


if you are going to tune your guitar to standard, then 3 springs are enuf (although it is slightly subjective as it also depends on the guitar model as well). But any lower ex: C or B tunings will require more springs to keep up the tension.
Also when you start tightening the strings ideally don't start tuning them in the order eBGDAE ... to maintain the balance and tension, first start tightening the higher and lower E, followed by B and A and then G and D.
this should help you balance it out.

Note: oh and also remember the claw should ALWAYS be parallel to the body to maintain an even tension across and not limit it on one string.
My Gear

Epiphone Les Paul Special II
ESP KH-202 with OFR
Hobner Acoustic
BOSS OS-2 Overdrive/Distortion pedal
Dunlop GCB95 Crybaby Wah Pedal
Laney P20 20-Watt 1x8 Amplifier
Last edited by AiC at Aug 11, 2015,
#18
I use 5 springs in all of my trem guitars. If you have more springs, put them on.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

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#19
I've got 4 springs in my Floyd guitar, and a little adjustable trem blocker mounted in the one-spring-width gap in the middle. That makes it very easy. What I do for a setup is I put the bridge in place, with no strings in it, and attach the springs. But I have the blocker in place to keep the floating bridge right in the flat spot, even without the strings on. The springs are just stuck against the blocker. Then I install the strings, stretch em a bit, and bring it up to tune, just like a hardtail. Once it's in tune and stable with the trem blocked flat, I tighten down the locking nut, to keep the strings right where they are. Then I remove the trem blocker. If the tension has changed for some reason (different string gauge, tuning, whatever), the bridge will pull out of place, either up or down. Then I just tighten or loosen the spring claw as necessary to get the bridge back to flat. At that point, it's balanced, and in tune. Or at least close enough that I only need minor adjustments on the fine tuners.

That makes the process go a whole hell of a lot faster than going back and forth, tuning strings, adjusting spring claw, retuning, adjusting spring claw, retuning, again and again.

http://www.amazon.com/Neck-Check-Guitar-Tremolo-Stopper/dp/B00FUTXO8G

that's the little stopper I use. Really simple. Works exactly like it looks like it does in the pictures. Pulling the screw out of the way to switch between blocked and floating mode isn't as fast and easy as with a Tremol-No, but that works fine for me. I don't need to switch fast, from song to song, or anything. I just keep it blocked with one band, and floating with another.
Guitars
Schecter Hellraiser C-1FR, C-1 Classic, Hellraiser Hybrid Solo-II, Special Edition E-1FR-S
Orange Rockerverb 50 212
Basses
Yamaha RBX374 and Washburn MB-6
Last edited by the_bi99man at Aug 12, 2015,
#20
Guess I'll update: The bridge is now in the right position (the strings inexplicably kept going sharp so I was able to lower everything down). Is it bad that the claw is all the way in?

Right now the strings are a bit flat (1/4 step or so). Raising it will pull the bridge a bit by the
time it's in tune and I've got nowhere to move the claw to bring the bridge back down. Add another spring or two (I've got 2) at this point?
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#21
are you talking about your charvel? i can't imagine so much trouble here. those are super easy to set up. do you have any pix?
#22
Quote by Maidenheadsteve at #33544561
Already have it at \l/; I've got 2 more springs but just seeing if I can avoid the hassle of having to detune completely, loosen springs, add spring, re-tune, re-tighten springs.

You can't.
Quote by Maidenheadsteve at #33545184
Guess I'll update: The bridge is now in the right position (the strings inexplicably kept going sharp so I was able to lower everything down). Is it bad that the claw is all the way in?

Right now the strings are a bit flat (1/4 step or so). Raising it will pull the bridge a bit by the
time it's in tune and I've got nowhere to move the claw to bring the bridge back down. Add another spring or two (I've got 2) at this point?

Think about it.

If you cannot get the bridge level and the guitar in tune, yet the claw is screwed all the way in on both sides, where are you going to get the extra tension you need from?

MOAR SPRINGS
Quote by TheSennaj
And well yes, I'll enjoy the carpal tunnel and tendonitis, because trying to get one is clearly smarter than any word you have spoken thus far.
#23
Added the springs, good to go.

Thanks, y'all! Tunings a synch, just haven't had to change springs ever. All set now.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.