#1
I bought a Marshall JCM2000 DSL401 a few months back. The seller mentioned this, but when I went to test it and ultimately purchase it, the amp wasn't doing it. When I flip the power switch there is a delay from the time the switch is put into the on position, till when the switch lights up as well as the channel LED. It has been as little as 3 seconds, and as long as 30 (there is an audible click when it turns on). Is this a problem with the power supply, is it something to worry about, or is it nothing to worry about? It works as normal once it comes on, heats up, and I disengage standby.
#2
Hmm, I wonder if that is a power transformer thing, or perhaps the filter caps need to be replaced? I know very very basic tube amp stuff so this is merely speculation. But those would be my first two guesses, since it seems like the amp is struggling to build a voltage
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#3
It won't be the PT, they don't fail in that way. The power button not lighting up would point me at connections on the 120/230V side of the PT. Sounds like a dry joint.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#4
I'm gonna go with cath on this, but also Watterboy.
Electrolytic caps can do funny things when they are on the way out.
How old is the amp?

A delay (warm up time) before things become normal often points to a defective solder joint.
Last edited by CodeMonk at Oct 5, 2015,
#5
MIght be something in the switch that isn't actually switching (a weak spring, etc.).

But are you sure that you've got the correct voltage selected for your wall current, and that you've got good voltage at the wall?

Otherwise, I'd be careful of Cathbard's "dry joints." They can flame up and burn your lips off.
#6
Quote by dspellman
MIght be something in the switch that isn't actually switching (a weak spring, etc.).

But are you sure that you've got the correct voltage selected for your wall current, and that you've got good voltage at the wall?

Otherwise, I'd be careful of Cathbard's "dry joints." They can flame up and burn your lips off.

Just like cath himself.
(Sorry cath, but he set you up )

The thrill of a component bursting into flames while your is face right above it about 2 feet away is a rush.
Something I'll never forget, that's for sure.
#7


The switch itself would be the next thing I'd sort out if reflowing the solder doesn't fix it. Does the switch feel funny?
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#8
Sorry about the late response... its a 2002 version, although one of the first things I did was install a fan on the rear vent as I know the pre-2003s have heat issues (no the fan is not wired into the amp, it has it's own power supply)

The switch is noticeably stiffer than the standby switch, but resists about the same as any marshall power switch I've ever flipped

Opening the amp up, the wires are not soldered to the switch, but are connected with push on terminal connectors

I'll have to open it back up and see if any of those connectors are loose, but I don't think it's the switch