#1
Ok, have had the

Mighty Mite strap lock (Proprietary Type)

System, and the problem it's had is that it unscrewed the screw holding the Button onto the horn enough times that it stripped the wood there.

I personally LOVED this one because it seemed the most secure with virtually no fail point... till I saw it unscrew itself sooo many times over the years that I had it... not just the button screw either... all screws eventually became unscrewed various amounts... so perhaps it gripped to tightly or something I dunno.

Is it worth staying with it and just rescrewing it back in once I get the stripped wood fixed at a local shop, or should I get the schaller type strap lock?
"grateful is he who plays with open fingers" - Me

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#2
Put a few wooden toothpicks in the screw hole with a little wood glue and cut the toothpicks off flush (use a pair of nail clippers for a nice clean cut). Let it dry then replace the screw. It works great.

I have tried several different strap locks over many years of playing. A number of years ago I just settled on Schallers so I have the same strap locks on every guitar. They just work and I can mix a match all my straps and guitars (I have way to many guitars since suffering from extreme GAS).

I use generic Schaller's now. I say generic because I bought a dozen sets on EBay that were listed as Schaller's but they turned out to be Chinese knock offs. They do work very well and look visually the same but are sized is just slightly different so you can't match them with real Schallers.
Yes I am guitarded also, nice to meet you.
#4
Use "CodeMonk's Generic Wood Putty™"
Take some fine sawdust, mix with wood glue to the consistency of peanut butter.
Fill the screw hole with the homemade putty and use a toothpick to make a small hole in it, small enough to ensure your screw holds well when the goop dries.
It does take awhile to fully dry though.

I use Dunlop straplocks and they use longer screws.
That may be another option you want to look at.
I've been using them in all my guitars since the 80s and never had a failure.
Last edited by CodeMonk at Nov 4, 2015,
#5
Wooden matches/toothpicks and PVA glue is more than a temporary solution
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#6
oh? Then why did my original attempt fail and have to be done the way of taking it to a luthier and them drilling it out, putting wood glue in and putting a wooden dowel in.... and drilling a hole in that... and even THAT failed eventually.... Dunno, perhaps it's all the in and out the screw did with coming undone and having to be put back in... it was all gradual but still dang.... I take it PVA glue is white school glue or wood glue? in this case I bet wood? As PVA Glue is the generic name given to a whole host of "glues"....
"grateful is he who plays with open fingers" - Me

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#7
The trick is to pare down the match so that it just fits, or use multiple toothpicks. ie. fill the hole. Dip them in the PVA glue (PVA is the chemical name for your standard woodworking glue) and push them into the hole.
Allow time for the glue to dry and then screw the screw back in.
I have guitars that I did that to 30 years ago that are still hanging in there. My guess is that you simply cocked up the job.

Edit. Don't drill the hole out after filling it. Just let the screw drill it's own way in, packing the match wood into the hole. That compression of the wood counters much of the inherent weakness of match timber.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
Last edited by Cathbard at Nov 4, 2015,
#8
^+1
I have fixed guitars almost 20yrs ago that are still going fine with matchsticks holding the screws in.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#9
Hell, I've just done it with glue and no matchsticks and still had no problem. I don't understand how the screw is turning so much TS, are you spinning around and doing flips with it or something?

Edit: I should mention I used liquid nails, though.
I'm just a kickin' and a gougin' in the mud and the blood and the beer.
#10
I did the toothpick and Tite Bond glue trick on my 1976 Ibanez Les Paul about 20 years ago and it is still solid as a rock as a matter of fact it's the one guitar I can't change to Schaller strap locks because I installed an old Seymour Duncan leather strap lock back in the 70's and left it in place when I glued in the screw with toothpicks 25 or so years ago. I think it's permanent on that guitar. It's OK and works well.
Attachments:
strap lock.jpg
Yes I am guitarded also, nice to meet you.
Last edited by Rickholly74 at Nov 4, 2015,
#11
Yea, I must have cocked it up alright...

I'll try some woodglue and match stick ends soon see if that works. How long should I allow it to dry/cure?
"grateful is he who plays with open fingers" - Me

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#12
Leave it overnight.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band