So I built a guitar and wired it up with two mighty mite motherbuckers, five way fender switch, one volume knob and one tone knob.

I wired it using a schematic from Seymour Duncan with the above specs and it sounds beautiful and different in each of the five switch positions.
The oddity I didn't expect is that my tone knob doesn't do anything and my volume knob works in a very limited range (I'd say it has a range from about 7/10 to 10/10)

(I originally had trouble with no sound at all, but poking around I realized I had snapped one of the leads off the volume pot which I soldered back together. Now I am here)

Does anyone know what the problem may be?
if those motherbuckers are as hot as the kent armstrong ones i'm jealous.

my question is , are you using a regular 5 way switch or a super 5 way switch

normal 5 way - on the seymour duncan one volume one tone diagram with a 3 way blade switch I hate how they do it actually..but.. if you got pickup selections that is fantastic. To fix this problem on a normal 5 way solder the left wire from the tone pot to the commons ( middle contacts) and problem solved. look for cold solders of course and make sure there is nothing touching any shielding paint or anything.

super 5 way, well , depends on the harness that will be for another reply

volume .. hopefully the pot wasn't over heated because you should have full volume control.

remember to
tin the soldering iron before starting , apply a bit of solder then drag it against a wet sponge , it makes a world of difference. Do this when there is too much solder on the tip too. You want to keep the iron as clean as possible. If there is any caked on crap use copper steel wool from the dollar

of course strip all the wires and tin the ends of them , it's like hair gel it stiffens them and makes for easier and superior connections.

tin the contacts on the pots and switches before starting , remember the iron can re-heat the contacts too so it may seems strange at all but I'm one of those people who can do jimmy page to jerry donahue wirings so this technique works great

other than that I think you're doing fine, my first few attempts were horrible. What I tell beginners or people new to guitar electronics is to design templates it goes a long way. Trace the back plate and stack cardboard until you've got enough layers taped together where you can solder as much as possible before putting it into the control cavity. The idea is to drill or punch holes into the cardboard to make sure the pots and switch are steady as we all wish we had a third or fourth hand when soldering ;

good luck
Last edited by Tallwood13 at Nov 13, 2015,
Thanks for the feedback, I am using just a normal 5 way blade, not a super. I'l try out connecting a wire from the tone control to the common on the switch like you described. I've been careful about making sure to tin everything and not cold solder, but I will admit the grounds I have on the bottom of the pots resemble a large pile of metal poo rather than neat little points.

Would overheating the volume pot damage something on the interior or just a concern of accidentally melting solder points together which aren't supposed to be?

As far as the wiring colors, no they are not the same as seymour duncan and within the set the neck and bridge wiring colors differ between each other.
I rewrote the schematic wire colors with my understanding (couldn't find these exact pickups on the mighty mite website, but they have an "F" for neck and "R" for bridge printed on the back of the plate and I found another labeled the same)

Neck (F):
Bare + Black = ground
Red + Blue = coil tap (honestly not 100% certain what that means, used process of elimination)
White = hot output

Bridge (R):
Bare + White = ground
Red + Blue = to coil tap
Black = Hot output

Edit: And yes I had a bit of weird switching the first time I wired it (missed a wire from tone to switch which game me some mute positions, I love a killswitch, but not integrated into the pickup selection.)
Wiring diagram.jpg
Last edited by brandonlongwe at Nov 13, 2015,
Excellent a regular 5 way is all you really need, coil splits means that they isolate one half of the pickup for this weaker single coil sound it can be very useful. The grounding luckily doesn't have to look pretty, as long as it works. My only advice for grounding to the bases of pots is to solder flat. Not like radio antennas. Makes sense right?

pots can over heat and it would damage them, hopefully this wasn't the case. If you got a multimeter and are ok with de-soldering everything from the volume there can be assurance if the pot is working proper. Usually I use 30-40 watts maximum. Not sure what that is in temperature for the guys with higher end irons but still. It happens to the best of us.

if you do have a multimeter set it to 2000k in ohms with all the wires de-soldered from the contacts. turn the knob to 0% and focus on the middle and left contact, then middle and right, you should get 0k on one side and say 500k on the other, you can turn it to get the in between resistances to the point 0k becomes 500k. Multimeters really come in handy wiring guitars. You can test pickups to if there is a connection from point A to B.

F is finger board , it may be a longer wire too so you did fine there
color code I'm not sure actually

you know for this diagram I'm going to have to look at it a bit longer, it looks like
position 1 - bridge
position 2 - bridge / neck
position 3 - neck
position 4 - both pickups coil splitted
position 5 - neck coilsplit
if that is the case this is honestly the first time I've seen a diagram like this and I know some pretty obscure 5 way toggle wirings for two pickup guitars.

luckily with wiring with switches like this we can have other options, That harness does check out though. The key things to look at are the commons on the selector, the middle contacts from the volumes going straight to the jack and no grounding issues. I suggested the wiring diagram generator to seymour duncan about 6-9 months ago so glad they did it.
Last edited by Tallwood13 at Nov 13, 2015,