#1
Hey guys, to widen the endpin hole I started with a small drill bit then gradually moved up to 1/2" to install a K&K Pure Mini. After I removed the masking tape, it seems there was a split in the finish and some of the wood was raised.

Not sure how it happened, but how should I go about fixing it?

Thanks!

Album of crack: http://imgur.com/a/bPhnu
Last edited by ElectricMan5 at Nov 26, 2015,
#3
You need to use a WOOD bit and low rpm of course, they produce much less heat than a metal bit, the heat can cause glue and finish to melt, not saying that happened in your case. Pulling out the bit may have pulled the wood.
Typically you would glue (like quickset epoxy) and press the wood down til it's set, not hard to do. Heavily wax (like candle wax) around the area to keep squeezed glue from adhering to the finish.
#4
Quote by Tony Done
Oh dear, that was part bad luck, but it also shows why a special reamer is often used for that job. On the bright side, the socket fitting will hide most of it.

I would ask the experts on UMGF - the Unofficial Martin Guitar forum - because it isn't exactly a cheapo.


Thanks for the advice! I definitely should have used a reamer (is this the same as a unibit?) though I've never encountered this problem before with my drill bits. I'll post on their board!
#5
Quote by skido13
You need to use a WOOD bit and low rpm of course, they produce much less heat than a metal bit, the heat can cause glue and finish to melt, not saying that happened in your case. Pulling out the bit may have pulled the wood.
Typically you would glue (like quickset epoxy) and press the wood down til it's set, not hard to do. Heavily wax (like candle wax) around the area to keep squeezed glue from adhering to the finish.


Thanks for the advice, I'll look into using glue and wax. Given that it split outwards it was probably as I removed the bit, though it's strange how I felt no unusual resistance.

Fortunately I believe it's only cosmetic, and the jack will hold it in place, but I want to make sure no further damage can be caused.
#6
This expensive little item is the fail-safe tool:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Reamers/Endpin_Jack_Reamer.html

One of my local repairer/luthiers used a metal bit freehand in a power drill. I have used a metal bit in a drill press, accompanied by some prayers, with mixed success. - 've has the same problem as you, if the bit snatches, you've had it. On a guitar like yours, I would use a reamer - wisdom by hindsight eh? I think you could do it with an ordinary cheap tapered word working reamer, until the entry hole was bigger than the bit, then switch to a bit to complete the hole.