This is going to be sort of a silly question, but my VMJM has a neck radius of 9.5", I'm wanting to switch it out for a smaller (more standard) sized radius neck, aka 7.25". So here are my questions:

- Am I able to do this without any other modifications?
- Will doing this effect anything else?
- I'm planning on replacing the bridge with a Staytrem as well, if I switch out the neck, would I need to order a bridge designed for a 9.5" radius neck or a 7.25" radius neck? The answer to this seems obvious, but I'd rather be safe than sorry

I have small hands, so I'm hoping that switching it out will help!

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Last edited by kimberlydawn at Nov 28, 2015,
you can look at Mighty mite necks. Allparts also has necks and Warmoth does also.

Just be careful or you can very well spend way more than the guitar is worth.
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7.25" isn't a more standard radius; Fender used it until about the '80s, I believe, but generally that's considered a complete anomaly. More or less every other company uses a flatter fretboard even than the modern Fender 9.5" as standard. A smaller fretboard radius will do little (probably nothing) for small hands - it simply means that the fretboard is more curved. That means, especially (but not exclusively) if you want to bend, you need somewhat higher action on the outermost strings. I think a lot of people dislike the feel of the curve itself, too. People who get 7.25" radius fretboards get them because they specifically like the feel of that fretboard, or because they want a vintage Fender. When the question pops up in some "what radius do you prefer" thread, a lot of people say with some justification that they would never buy a guitar with 7.25".

None of that means you shouldn't get a 7.25" fretboard, but it definitely means you should try one so you know exactly what you're in for before you spend money on it, because it could very easily be a waste of a significant sum.

To answer your questions:
1) I'd need someone else to confirm this (possibly ask the Offset thread?), but I believe Squier sticks to Fender's standard neck pocket and should be fine with anything 25.5 scale with a Strat heel.
2) Well you could take the opportunity to put a decent nut and string tree in, which would help the tuning stability. Otherwise, mostly the stuff I already said.
3) This was a good question to ask; personally, I'd get a 9.5" radius bridge. On a 7.25" radius neck, you'll generally want the action on either side higher than it is in the middle, so a flatter bridge radius will help you keep the middle strings a bit closer to the fretboard while having the outer strings higher, since I believe the Staytrem behaves like a Mustang or Gibson bridge and only allows action adjustment of the whole unit rather than each saddle. Even on a 9.5", I keep my saddles flatter than the fretboard radius.
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7.25" means that you're going to be fretting out on the high-fret bends a lot more. The reason Fender moved to 9.5" is because the Jeff Becks of the world were getting better than the guitars on the market. This is the reason you see Deluxe Strats with an upper fret radius of 12".

Blame Eric Johnson. Generally, though, flatter should mean better in terms of performance. Of course, everyone has a different preference of what fits in their hand. I personally adore that 9.5"-12" Radius. Charvel does a 10"-16" that's really damn good.

The trem won't make a huge difference between 7.25" and 9" either. Anything's better than those VM Jazzmaster trems.