#1
I am looking at replacing the worn Floyd Rose 1000 in my PRS Torero SE with a Gotoh GE1996T bridge. The measurements are all the same, but one thing I am curious about is the studs. Has anyone made this switch, and if so, did you use the FR1000 posts, or did you route for the slightly different looking Gotoh posts? I worry that the angle of the cut in the post won't match the Gotoh as a drop in.
#2
i was going to say i though the gotoh studs were slightly bigger but it seems you already know that

i haven't tried the swap myself- this is of limited help, but IIRC I emailed wdmusic (gotoh dealer here) and was told that using other studs would void the warranty. that was ages ago, though. of course, that doesn't necessarily mean it won't work, just that they won't stand over it if you try it.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#3
Quote by Dave_Mc
i was going to say i though the gotoh studs were slightly bigger but it seems you already know that

i haven't tried the swap myself- this is of limited help, but IIRC I emailed wdmusic (gotoh dealer here) and was told that using other studs would void the warranty. that was ages ago, though. of course, that doesn't necessarily mean it won't work, just that they won't stand over it if you try it.


Woaaaaaaaaah Dave_Mc, it's like it's really 2005 again up in here lmao.

If that's the case, that sucks but I understand their reasoning.
#4
I've been tempted to swap out the LFRs in my Jacksons for Gotohs, so I've been looking into it a fair bit recently. I was mainly concerned about whether the thing would fit or not rather than the posts though - I tend to be of the thinking that if there's nothing wrong with the existing posts and locking nut, there's little point in going through the hassle of changing them.

About voiding the warranty if you do that - I guess I'd expect that for any product where the user isn't using it exactly as intended. I'd honestly not even considered warranties; I suppose it's not something I really think about when considering guitar parts. Something to bear in mind at least.

The straight knife edge is a bonus because it means that you're not going to have issues with the spacing between the posts, even though it should be nominally the same anyway. One other thing to look out for is the size of the block that comes with it. You can get three sizes, and the larger ones may or may not fit. I know of some folks who got the larger blocks and have to leave the back cover off because the thing's sticking out.
#5
Quote by Confuse-a-Cat
I've been tempted to swap out the LFRs in my Jacksons for Gotohs, so I've been looking into it a fair bit recently.


I've just left the LFRs in the guitars that have them. If there's nothing wrong with them, why fix them? I have Schaller-built OFRs sitting on a shelf waiting for something to go wrong with a '92 Samick I picked up inexpensively (okay, cheap), and for two other guitars that have LFRs in them, but so far they're just gathering dust.

The only swap I've done has been from a couple of Korean OFRs in an Agile and a Gibson Axcess (both identical down to the tool marks, by the way) to Schaller OFRs, and that was done for no other reason than that they were the wrong color for what was going back in.

I'd suggest swapping out the locking nut, however, if you swap out the trem. The two aren't connected, obviously, but I've run into one nut that was slipping. I swapped it out and that stopped. Seems to me that if there's enough wear to warrant changing the trem, you should probably do the nut at the same time. Not a big deal.

I should also note that NOT changing the nut and/or the studs is the lazy way out on these. You just pull one and drop in the other. But you may find issues with that process going foward.
#6
Quote by dspellman
I've just left the LFRs in the guitars that have them. If there's nothing wrong with them, why fix them?


That's the reason I've only been tempted rather than actually doing it. It's not so much that there's anything wrong with the existing ones, but that the particular LFR that Jackson use is held to be solid but unresponsive and not very good at things like fluttering. Could have some fun with a higher quality unit in there.

But I don't need to and so I haven't.

Quote by dspellman
I'd suggest swapping out the locking nut, however, if you swap out the trem. The two aren't connected, obviously, but I've run into one nut that was slipping. I swapped it out and that stopped. Seems to me that if there's enough wear to warrant changing the trem, you should probably do the nut at the same time. Not a big deal.

I should also note that NOT changing the nut and/or the studs is the lazy way out on these. You just pull one and drop in the other. But you may find issues with that process going foward.


Yeah, it is the lazy way, but then if there's nothing wrong with those existing parts then where's the benefit? The locking nut especially, if the existing one works it doesn't matter which one is on the guitar. And you'll still have the other one laying around somewhere if you decide to use it later on.

With the studs/posts, I'd be more interested in swapping those. They'll have a slightly different design and obviously the new ones are the ones designed to be used with the new unit. But it's not quite as simple as swapping them over; the studs that Gotoh use are a larger diameter than most others, and the posts won't generally fit into other manufacturers' studs. So It does require drilling out the holes a bit. Could be a little bit nervous doing it to a guitar I like! But I expect most people would just go to a tech.
#7
Quote by Confuse-a-Cat


Yeah, it is the lazy way, but then if there's nothing wrong with those existing parts then where's the benefit? The locking nut especially, if the existing one works it doesn't matter which one is on the guitar. And you'll still have the other one laying around somewhere if you decide to use it later on.


I'm the master of Lazy. Which means I try to do things once, the right way, so I don't have to deal with little niggling things later. If your trem is truly worn out, chances are really good that the locking nut is about to be. If you've got everything apart, good idea to replace it.
#8
I've kept the locking nut on my DK2M despite putting an OFR in it, simply because there's nothing wrong with the locking nut. No point in fixing something that isn't broken.
Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Quote by H4T3BR33D3R
I also have to do that. Cottaging this weekend
#9
Quote by wylde_overdrive
Woaaaaaaaaah Dave_Mc, it's like it's really 2005 again up in here lmao.

If that's the case, that sucks but I understand their reasoning.


lol

and yeah. it's annoying but as you and confuse-a-cat said, I can understand why they do it and you can't really expect them to act any differently or they open themselves up to people doing really silly, unsanctioned stuff and then expecting a refund if it doesn't work.

Quote by Confuse-a-Cat
(a) That's the reason I've only been tempted rather than actually doing it. It's not so much that there's anything wrong with the existing ones, but that the particular LFR that Jackson use is held to be solid but unresponsive and not very good at things like fluttering. Could have some fun with a higher quality unit in there.

But I don't need to and so I haven't.


(b) With the studs/posts, I'd be more interested in swapping those. They'll have a slightly different design and obviously the new ones are the ones designed to be used with the new unit. But it's not quite as simple as swapping them over; the studs that Gotoh use are a larger diameter than most others, and the posts won't generally fit into other manufacturers' studs. So It does require drilling out the holes a bit. Could be a little bit nervous doing it to a guitar I like! But I expect most people would just go to a tech.


(a) yeah i haven't got round to doing it either yet, but i do have a couple which are noticeably not as nice as the "good" units- flutter is poor to nonexistent, as you said, sustain is nowhere near as good (for doing whammy tricks, i mean- with a "good" one you can dive, pull back up again, do some more yanking on the bar and the note is still there, not so much with the cheapo ones I have), and even staying in tune is not as good on the lo-trs, though the kramer does stay in tune ok, but then its responsiveness is cack. the ibanez one is pleasantish to use but doesn't stay in tune; the kramer one stays in tune but you don't want to use it. mainly i didn't get round to swapping because studs were a different size and i didn't want to void the warranty

(b) yeah, bingo. if it's a direct swap, as dspellman says, you might as well swap everything, to maintain the warranty and just so you know everything is in good condition, well-made etc.. But if it's not a direct swap, it's a lot harder if you're not mechanically-inclined (and I'm not).
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Jan 16, 2016,
#10
Quote by Dave_Mc
lol

and yeah. it's annoying but as you and confuse-a-cat said, I can understand why they do it and you can't really expect them to act any differently or they open themselves up to people doing really silly, unsanctioned stuff and then expecting a refund if it doesn't work.


(a) yeah i haven't got round to doing it either yet, but i do have a couple which are noticeably not as nice as the "good" units- flutter is poor to nonexistent, as you said, sustain is nowhere near as good (for doing whammy tricks, i mean- with a "good" one you can dive, pull back up again, do some more yanking on the bar and the note is still there, not so much with the cheapo ones I have), and even staying in tune is not as good on the lo-trs, though the kramer does stay in tune ok, but then its responsiveness is cack. the ibanez one is pleasantish to use but doesn't stay in tune; the kramer one stays in tune but you don't want to use it. mainly i didn't get round to swapping because studs were a different size and i didn't want to void the warranty

(b) yeah, bingo. if it's a direct swap, as dspellman says, you might as well swap everything, to maintain the warranty and just so you know everything is in good condition, well-made etc.. But if it's not a direct swap, it's a lot harder if you're not mechanically-inclined (and I'm not).



Yeah it's not a direct swap with anything but an OFR or Schaller FR. The Gotoh has different studs

Shame that the OFR is wayyyyy more expensive than the Gotoh and IMO has an inferior arm/collar system, and is less comfortable to play

Additionally: I'm wondering if the "BR3" nut (12" radius) on my guitar with a 14" radius is the same as an R3 nut, which is all I can find on the Floyd Rose site. I cannot find any reference to the BR3 nut anywhere :/
Last edited by wylde_overdrive at Jan 16, 2016,
#11
yeah. the lockmeister is a fair bit cheaper than the OFR here in europe and is allegedly the exact same thing just with a schaller stamp on it, but i dunno if that pricing holds for canada.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?