#1
hi guys,

i remember reading one day somewhere that it was better to tune in this order:

E e A B D G

than:

E A D G B e

because of some reason.

does anybody have any info?

thanks


yall have a good day
#2
I guess it has something to do with spreading tension evenly along the neck, if you tune from E to e in a linear fashion, the left side of the fretboard will be under more stress than the right side for a while. I usually tune E D G A B e, just because that's how I roll.

But that's only when I'm restringing a guitar. If I'm doing just a basic tuning before a playing session, I usually take the A note from a reference pitch, and then just tune the other strings from E to e, referencing the A string if that makes sense.
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#4
It shouldn't matter at all with a fixed bridge or the ones with whammy bars that only go down. Supposedly it can help to do it that way if you're tuning a guitar with a floating bridge like a floyd rose - the kind that you can also pull the whammy bar up, not just push it down. With floating bridges it's a balancing act. Every time you tune one string it also changes the overall tension, causing changes to the other strings. So, you'll tune your strings and by the time you've tuned the last one the first one you tuned is out, so you do it again, and again, until you eventually hit that perfect point where everything's in tune and balanced. It can take quite a few passes if you took all the strings off of a guitar with a floating bridge. Supposedly it goes faster if you spread the tension more evenly, but I don't see how it makes any difference since you need to get to the same amount of tension on each string regardless of how you get there. When I've done it (I don't have a floating trem, but I've worked on guitars with them before) I tuned E A E A D E A D G etc. It probably doesn't actually make it any faster, but it felt like it.

If you're just restringing a guitar with a floating trem it's best to just change and tune up one string at a time, leaving the old strings on instead of taking them all off at once, so the overall tension stays closer to where it needs to be and you don't have to spend as much time tuning over and over again as the bridge gets pulled up, but of course if there are repairs involved that require all the strings to be off or you want to oil the fretboard you just have to deal with it.
Last edited by The4thHorsemen at Jan 24, 2016,
#5
When I tune strings I tune them up E B G D A E or down E A D G B E. When I finish the first pass I check the stings against each other. I check the E strings against each other and the B string against he low E and high E and the harmonics on the E A and high E strings as well and just in general over all.

Sometimes strings go out though and you just need to fine tune as you're playing.
Si
#6
I do it differently only when changing strings. If it's just a general string change ( and I'm not cleaning the fret board or polishing frets) I go E then B then A then G then B then E just to keep the tension even on the neck. If it's just tuning up on normal basis I just do EADGBE. I don't think it matters. I'd be curious if anyone noticed a difference. (I do not have any guitars with a Floyd or floater. I do have two guitars with a Bigsby and those I am more careful with. It's a pain in the ass to change strings on the Bigsby but I love them.)
Yes I am guitarded also, nice to meet you.
#7
When I change strings I put the strings on in the order low E G A B D then high E.

Then I slowly increase the strings in increments alternating between strings getting them all gradually closer to pitch.
Si
#8
new strings..one at a time...EADGBE..once all are on..and in tune..ill bend each one a half step..ebg half step up bend dae half step down bend...re tune..now same bending sequence only whole step this time..retune .. bending half step all strings..retune now..all strings two half step bends..repeat until they are still in tune after 2 half bends each.. (bending at the 12th & 7th frets)

total time..approx. 30 mins --plug in tuner - this is done on a les paul with a tuneomatic bridge/10-46 strings/low action..re tune when needed and at start of every practice session
play well

wolf
Last edited by wolflen at Jan 25, 2016,
#9
^yea, I do something similar when restringing. As I string up I get them roughly in tune as I go, then tune them all, then one string at a time I grab the string at around the 12th fret, pull it up away from the fretboard around a 1/2 inch to an inch a few times real quick, tune back up, and repeat until the the pitch drop is super tiny, then move on to the next string. The first time I got new strings after getting my first guitar I had a guitar tech show me how to do it and that's what he did and explained that it helps the strings settle so they're not constantly dropping out of tune.

I did end up breaking a few brand new strings in the first couple of years from pulling too hard, but I was pulling the strings like 2 inches or more from the fretboard, which was just me getting impatient, but after a few times I learned to be more gentle lol. I'm guessing it's probably safer to do normal bends like you're saying, but might take a little longer, though of course I don't know without trying it that way. I have very little idea how long it takes me since when I get involved in tasks like that now I kinda zone out and lose track of time and I also usually take the opportunity to really clean my guitar and oil the fretboard as well. I don't look forward to stuff like that, but once I get started it's like a kind of meditation.
#10
yeah, getting the strings tight while restringing helps keep the guitar in tune. I have a floating bridge and locking tuners, so I try to the pull the strings tight while locking the tuner, then bring it up to a step or two sharp. By the time the high e string is up to tension, the lower strings are only slightly sharp, and there's virtually no slack around the tuner.
#11
I don't claim to be an expert, but here's my take on it!

When I play more casually I don't care how I tune, I just use a tuner and then correct the worst intonation issues after by ear. It simply takes too long to get near perfect (perfect can't be achieved of course both as the 12-tone scale isn't balanced enough, and the instruments has more or less flaws in the neck/bridge/etc.). Also, the intonation on all my instruments is horrible (except on my Gibson Explorer, which I don't use as much since I mostly play acoustic songs now).

However when recording something serious I use this old method I heard Eric Johnson explain in some old interview (it can probably be found on youtube). So basically he starts in the middle of the guitar, often on the G-string, and then tune outwards towards the E-strings. Also, he checks with the different by ear methods, to hear tones in more then one octave. He does it purely by ear since he's Eric Johnson, but I use a tuner for help.
#14
But yeah, I start on the lowest tone, tune that up well, then just go to the old habits of either using a tuner completely; or manual tuning with the 5th fret on most of the strings excluding the 4th, with the 4th fret :P seems to work very well for me, at least