#1
I was on the Floyd Rose website the other day, and saw a lot of different Floyd Rose bridges
(Original, Pro, Special, Titanium, 1000 Series)

And I'm curious as to what the difference between them are.
Specifically between the Original, Pro, and Special.

My MH50 has a FL Special on it, and I've been reading online that many people say that the Original Floyd Rose is better. But I can't seem to find an explanation for it.

So what are the differences between those 3?

And is it worth swapping my guitar's FR Special for an FR Original? (I notice the Original is $200, ouch)

Thanks
-Parac
#2
Most important question first. Special for an Original. Nah, don't bother.

The website sort of explains the differences between the current bunch; I'm not sure I could do better.
#3
The only difference between the Special and the Original is that the saddles and insert blocks are made of zinc instead of steel. They may wear down a bit faster because of that.

However, the most important part of a FR bridge, the knife edges, are made of the same material. No difference between the Special and the Original there.

The sustain block may be different too, but I'm not 100% sure.

The FR Pro has narrower string spacing and it is low profile.

So yeah, in a nutshell, the Original and the Special are the same thing, except that the Original has better quality materials on the saddles, insert blocks and possibly sustain block. The Pro is the same as the Original, except it has narrower string spacing and is low profile.
#4
http://dellus.net/updates/original-floyd-rose-german-vs-korean/

Here is the best comparison that I can find, FWIW I have an old German made OFR that came stock on my 1987 KRAMER (so old it has flathead screwdriver adjustments for the mounting studs) I also have a Schaller made Jackson licensed OFR (cast zinc plate) from the same era on my 1989 Charvel, both are great tremolos, I have 2 Korean made Floyd 1000 and a fairly new German OFR. There are definitely differences between all of them, the 1987 OFR and the new OFR feel nearly identical and in spite of the fact the FR1000's are Korean and there are several differences (noted in the article) they feel damn close to my OFRs and perform just as well as far as tuning stability and fluttering.

I had a Special for awhile (and my friend has a couple) and while it did perform well and stay in tune it did feel quite different, and did not flutter as well even with pro set-up. For the price difference I have a hard time believing that the saddles/blocks were the only corners cut, like has been suggested the grade of steel used is likely lower, and I would venture to guess the manufacturing process itself as far as how tight the tolerances are held to during manufacturing.

That said, I still though the Special was a good system and if you are on a budget it should serve you well.
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#5
^ yeah that link's good.

I think the schaller-made OFR is a bit better than the 1000, but the 1000 is still usable. I haven't tried the special.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

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#6
Quote by DanyFS
However, the most important part of a FR bridge, the knife edges, are made of the same material. No difference between the Special and the Original there.


Not sure where you got this info, but if it is from marketing then be careful as they can word it to their advantage.

You can the same type of materials BUT with different specs and/or the hardening process could be different.
#7
Quote by SpiderM
Not sure where you got this info, but if it is from marketing then be careful as they can word it to their advantage.

You can the same type of materials BUT with different specs and/or the hardening process could be different.


That's what I've always heard at least.

The Floyd Rose Specials seem to have good knife edges and hold tune well, at least from my limited experience (only played 1 or 2 guitars with a Special). Unless you decide to wreck them down by adjusting the action under full string and spring tension, then you should be fine with a Special and get a lot out of it.

However, the floyd rose gurus around here can chime in and correct me if I'm wrong
Last edited by DanyFS at Feb 22, 2016,
#8
I'm very doubtful that the baseplates on FR specials are as good as they are on German OFR's. They're going to be better than just some cheap pot metal crap, but the grade of steel and the tolerances these bridges are made to cannot be replicated in a cost effective way.
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#9
So if the little blocks on the Original and Special are different, couldn't I just stop by a guitar center and buy some FR Original blocks and swap the blocks?

Because I'm a bit afraid to use the FR Special on my MH50 since the last time I did that, my 3rd string (cg C fad) popped out (and it wasn't a really huge dive/pull either)

any ideas on how I could fix that?

Thanks
#10
Quote by Parac
So if the little blocks on the Original and Special are different, couldn't I just stop by a guitar center and buy some FR Original blocks and swap the blocks?

Because I'm a bit afraid to use the FR Special on my MH50 since the last time I did that, my 3rd string (cg C fad) popped out (and it wasn't a really huge dive/pull either)

any ideas on how I could fix that?

Thanks


Yes, you could buy FR Original blocks.

Hm, there are many possible reasons for that to happen. Check if the string was sitting properly there. This is usually the problem.

Check the insert block. If it wearing down, then you need to replace it.

Also check if the bridge is in parallel with the body of the guitar.
#11
Quote by Parac
So if the little blocks on the Original and Special are different, couldn't I just stop by a guitar center and buy some FR Original blocks and swap the blocks

Thanks


They are a bit pricey but I swapped out the blocks on my new OFR with some made from titanium, they will not corrode, expand or crack. They will last the lifetime of your bridge and move onto the next one if need be.

FU Tone sells them, I would double check with Adam @ FU Tone to be sure the blocks will fit the special, he is pretty good at answering e-mails.

http://www.fu-tone.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=194
"A well-wound coil is a well-wound coil regardless if it's wound with professional equipment, or if somebody's great-grandmother winds it to an old French recipe with Napoleon's modified coffee grinder and chops off the wire after a mile with an antique guillotine!"
- Bill Lawrence

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#12
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
I'm very doubtful that the baseplates on FR specials are as good as they are on German OFR's. They're going to be better than just some cheap pot metal crap, but the grade of steel and the tolerances these bridges are made to cannot be replicated in a cost effective way.


yeah. even with the 1000 it's pretty obvious (using the simple expedient of, er, looking at it) that corners have been cut when compared to the schaller-made OFR, and the special is cheaper again.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#13
Quote by Dave_Mc
yeah. even with the 1000 it's pretty obvious (using the simple expedient of, er, looking at it) that corners have been cut when compared to the schaller-made OFR, and the special is cheaper again.



Agreed I'm sure the quality of manufacturing is lower or they wouldn't be so cheap
"A well-wound coil is a well-wound coil regardless if it's wound with professional equipment, or if somebody's great-grandmother winds it to an old French recipe with Napoleon's modified coffee grinder and chops off the wire after a mile with an antique guillotine!"
- Bill Lawrence

Come and be with me
Live my twisted dream
Pro devoted pledge
Time for primal concrete sledge

#14
Okay, so I emailed ESP asking about why my strings keep slipping/popping out of the socket

They told me the D string saddle (if it were in standard tuning) may be stripped,
and said that if I reply with my guitar info (including purchase info), they can take my guitar back, repair it and send it back to me.

Now the question I have now is:
The little saddle block for that saddle (the GC guitar tech removed it, showed me, said it was still in perfect condition).
So if it were still in perfect condition, since its the block that squeezes the string and keeps it from popping out, how would it be "stripped"?

Or is there another component on the FR Special that helps hold the string in place?
#15
Quote by Parac


Now the question I have now is:
The little saddle block for that saddle (the GC guitar tech removed it, showed me, said it was still in perfect condition).


There's an extremely strong chance that your local GC tech doesn't know what he's talking about.

But either way, that seems like a pretty small deal to actually send the guitar back for. If there's another shop besides GC you can go to, take it there. It's most likely a very easy and cheap fix. Or, it doesn't need a fix at all. Make sure that you get the string in there right.
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#16
Quote by Evilnine
Agreed I'm sure the quality of manufacturing is lower or they wouldn't be so cheap


nor would they bother doing it as it's kind of pointless

(though i suppose, being really cynical, if they could tell people the german one was better, it might make people but dearer guitars)
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#17
Quote by Dave_Mc
(though i suppose, being really cynical, if they could tell people the german one was better, it might make people but dearer guitars)


It's all marketing. I am sure that companies sell more cheap guitars than expensive ones and probably make more profit from 10 cheap guitars than one expensive one. So, why would they want to put these people off by saying it's made with inferior parts?
Also, the guys buying the high end stuff are more likely to know the difference than someone new and can make an informed decision.
#18
So...ESP told me once I send them my proof of purchase, they may be able to ship a new FRS saddle to me.

How do I install one of these saddles?