#1
I'm planning to try and build a guitar with a shape something between an FRX and an F series (F-50, F-200, etc). I've drawn out the shape by tracing over marketing photos, which will get me something fairly close (Obviously there will be optical distortion from the camera lens, and perspective issues, but it should be close enough to work from).

Now I just need to know some dimension of the guitar so that I can blow up the plan to the right size and go get it printed at Kinko's or someplace.

So, does anyone have one of these, that they wouldn't mind measuring the width at the widest point on the body? That would probably be the easiest dimension to work from.

If anyone's willing to check that for me and post it here, that'd be extremely helpful!

I know I could just order what I want from the ESP custom shop, but the point is the challenge of building it. That FRX body shape, with the multiple curves on the top will be fun to try and shape by hand.
#2
The dimensions of the guitar can be inferred from things we already know, like the scale of the guitar and the measurements of the pickups.
Last edited by dspellman at May 20, 2016,
#3
Oh, absolutely... But I'm not working with a CAD program, just a drawing app, so I'd have to count pixels and figure ratio math... Totally doable, I mean I know it's got a 25.5" scale length, that's published, so I could measure the pixel length of a line from the edge of the nut to the bridge saddles (Would have to be an average since they're intonated of course), use the image DPI to figure out how many inches it is in the picture, and then what percentage I need to increase it by to reach 25.5"...

But I figured if anyone has one and a tape measure, the width of the body would be really easy to check and save me the trouble. If I have to figure it out I can, but the tools available in my usual drawing app (Manga studio) are limited for the task.

I suppose I could import my line drawing into some sort of free 2D CAD program... That might be easier.

Edit: Rather than trying to average lengths based on the saddles I'd of course be better off measuring from the edge of the nut to the 12th fret and multiplying by two. My brain may be running a bit slow today :/
Last edited by gammapaladin at May 20, 2016,
#6
Indeed, that's the one (Gotta love that top profile... beveled edges, dropping back down and then (As far as I can tell) a slight radius over the center. That's so absurdly complex, you know they throw those through a CnC machine, but I'm a sucker for punishment and I wanna see if I can manage it with rasps, files, and sandpaper

I loaded the images into inkscape and measured the scale length and scaled it appropriately, given a 72 dpi image. I realized I'd drawn in the neck and bridge from the F-200B, which has a 27" scale length, so I resized the image to get about 972 pixels from the break of the nut to the center of the 12th fret. Should make it approximately 13.5". Hopefully.

Which puts the width of the guitar at about 13.25", might have ended up bigger if I'd used the FRX neck.

This is the drawing I made, it mostly has the FRX's curves (Especially those violin style recurves in the middle of the sides, and the horns) and the F-200B's cutout for the output jack.

http://metapuppy.net/paladin/image3344.png

I figure I can get a few full size copies printed, and use it to freehand some templates, knock out a prototype. A lot of the lines are kind of vague guides, since this is prototype work and some of it will have to be "try it, and adjust as necessary".
Last edited by gammapaladin at May 20, 2016,
#8
None whatsoever... In fact, if you look at this F-104, the custom shop obviously built it neck-through, with a built up neck:

http://www.6-string.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/3000x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/e/s/esp_ltd_f_4e_bass_guitar_2__2.jpg

I think that's absolutely stunning, personally, and I'm considering that sort of build for this project. I'm not sure which way I'm gonna go with it though, neck-through or bolt-on, because I have this nice hunk of jarrah I've resawn, was going to use it for an SG, but I'm thinking about doing this FRX/F-200 hybrid first... The pieces I have would be enough to make the wings, but it seems almost a shame to use wood I resawed myself for a bookmatch, and put a through neck in between...

Edit: Link-ified image because it was bigger than I thought.
Last edited by gammapaladin at May 21, 2016,
#9
Most of the neck-through guitars I have don't show the neck on the front of the body; just on the back. There's a full-width top that overlays everything. That said, I have one LP-alike with a neck-through construction, but what they've done (to produce a one-piece body/back) is rout a channel down the center of the body, laid the neck into that, and then topped it. The rout stops short of the bottom of the guitar by an inch or so, so I guess you could call it a *really* long tenon. It's probably 3/8" from the back of the guitar. What you see is the neck disappearing into the body at the heel, but you find it when you rout for a Floyd or a Sustainer, etc.
#10
Interesting idea. I'll have to think on it... so many possibilities. I sort of like the visible neck-through build I linked above, the way they built up the laminated neck and body block and then shaped it led to a really attractive looking guitar. But there's obviously something to be said for a bookmatched top (Which I could pair with a mahogany body underneath and get two guitars out of the Jarrah I've got...

The piece was long enough and thick enough to do an entire guitar body by cutting it in half and plate joining it side-by-side, but I resawed it twice, one slightly more than quarter inch thick piece, and two pieces around 3/4" each, so that I could make a bookmatched top, a bookmatched back, and put some contrasting piece like maple in between, and get a fretboard out of the 1/4" piece.

I could still do that, but have a nearly-through tenon hidden in the center...

Bridge-wise I'll just be going string-through with a roller bridge of some sort I think. Not really big on tremolos, I just never use em.