#1
So I've decided to give my first guitar a makeover. I want to refinish it, put new pups in, and get all new hardware for it.

So. My main questions:

What kind of paint should I use? (I want to do a matte black finish)

Do I need to use primer before I actually paint?

Do I need to use lacquer AFTER I paint? (I was thinking since I want to do a matte finish, I thought the lacquer would negate that?)


I've actually done a lot of research on these subjects, but there seems to be a lot of different opinions and answers on what kind of products and methods to use, so it's left me a bit confused as to what I should do. I have quite a bit of experience with painting, stripping, priming, but this will be my first guitar DIY job, so I want to get it right.
#2
Quote by MusicMan24
So I've decided to give my first guitar a makeover. I want to refinish it, put new pups in, and get all new hardware for it.

So. My main questions:

1. What kind of paint should I use? (I want to do a matte black finish)

2. Do I need to use primer before I actually paint?

3. Do I need to use lacquer AFTER I paint? (I was thinking since I want to do a matte finish, I thought the lacquer would negate that?)


I've actually done a lot of research on these subjects, but there seems to be a lot of different opinions and answers on what kind of products and methods to use, so it's left me a bit confused as to what I should do. I have quite a bit of experience with painting, stripping, priming, but this will be my first guitar DIY job, so I want to get it right.

1. I prefer to use Acrylic Lacquer for the primer, colorcoat, and clearcoat. I've been very happy with Krylon and Duplicolor. The house brands from the bigbox DIY stores work well, too, just not as many colorcoat choices.

2. I usually just scuff sand with 400 grit, then spray the colorcoat when doing an opaque finish. You can still prime if you wish.

3. After the colorcoat, even when doing a satin finish, I like to clearcoat (satin/matte) using the schedule of 3s. 3 runs per side, wait an hour, 3 per side, wait, then 3 more, for 3 days. I then wetsand with 2000 and wait a week to do the swirl remover and polish.

Post pics!
#3
I just distressed and cleaned the original finish, then used automotive self-catalysing spray can poly, I can't recall the make*, but it wasn't particularly cheap. It looks OK, but it scuffs easily:



This is an 80s Burny LP Jr, converted to LP Special, using a home-made pickguard.

*Just checked. It's White Night "Rust Guard" Epoxy Enamel
Last edited by Tony Done at Jun 4, 2016,