#1
Dear UG community

I'm new to the whole double-locking trem set up, I just picked up an MIJ DK2M from 2009, its a beauty! Anyway, I have been doing some research as to how to properly setup the guitar with this style of bridge, and here are the steps I've come up with through reading/watching various sources. Your help and critique would be much appreciated. Also please remember I'm trying to learn here.

[Step 0] Neck setup
After stringing by replacing each string at a time, do a rough tuning pass E -> E,a -> E,a,d -> and so on Check neck is straight, make sure the nut is unlocked then loosen the strings a bit, follow that with adjustments to truss rod. Retune roughly and lock at the nut play the guitar a bit, do some whammy bar pulls and dips to stretch the strings a bit

[Step 1] Initial Tuning
Tune (without locking at the nut) [tune like this: E, e, B, A, G, D] No nut locking here because the rest of the adjustment will have it go out of tune anyway. Also make sure that the adjustable micro-tuners at the bridge are mid-way before starting the tuning process.

[Step 2] Bridge Leveling
Adjust the bridge level, have it sitting back a tiny bit, because once locked at the nut and re-tuned, the strings will pull it back level. If the bridge is sitting back too much loosen the claw screws, if the bridge is dipping forward too much tighten the claw screws. Make sure to do 1/4-1/8 turns at a time.

[Step 3] Tuning
Tune (lock at the nut) [tune like this: E, e, B, A, G, D] Now check that bridge is nice and flat with the body, if not unlock then repeat Step 2 and Step 3

[Step 4] Action
I aim for 1.7-2.0mm on the low E and 1.5-1.7mm on the high e. (I'm using Hybrid Slinky 9-46) Unlock the nut, chock the trem with something like a strap or a piece of cloth, and lower/heighten the bridge depending on if action is too high or too low. After adjusting bridge height, tune, lock the nut and check for action and bridge level. Fixing level first if its off (Step 2), then back to action (Step 4)

[Step 5] Intonation
Unlock at the nut. Do this for each string [intonate like this: E, e, B, A, G, D] If the 12th harmonic is flat: chock the trem, loosen the string, shorten the string length by moving the saddle towards the neck. If the 12th harmonic is sharp: chock the trem, loosen the string, increase the string length by moving the saddle towards the bridge. After each adjustment of each saddle, unchocking the trem and re-tuning of the entire guitar is necessary. Once in tune, move on the next string and repeat the process until all 6 are properly intonated.

[Step 6] Final tuning
Tune the guitar and lock at the nut. Check level and action and make no more than tiny adjustments if necessary, if it feels like more adjustment is required, go back to the respective step.

[Step 7] Commence dive bombing.

Your CC is much appreciated. Did you spot anything that is off or that I'm doing incorrectly? Please let me know.

EDIT: added some extra steps and more descriptions
Last edited by 5ala at Jun 14, 2016,
#2
You probably didn't notice the sticky that says, "New and improved FR setup Guide," right?

Try that first.
#3
Quote by dspellman
You probably didn't notice the sticky that says, "New and improved FR setup Guide," right?

Try that first.


I've seen it but there are some things that it misses that I am doing, and I wanted to get people's opinion on that. As you see in the title, its a meant to be a discussion.
#4
There isn't much of a discussion to be had tbh. The old stickied thread covers the essentials and nobody has ever complained about it lacking information.

What information is lacking in the old thread this this one has?
Quote by TheSennaj
And well yes, I'll enjoy the carpal tunnel and tendonitis, because trying to get one is clearly smarter than any word you have spoken thus far.
#5
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
There isn't much of a discussion to be had tbh. The old stickied thread covers the essentials and nobody has ever complained about it lacking information.

What information is lacking in the old thread this this one has?


During the action setting stage, the sticky does not loosen the strings before adjusting the action. I've read that this will blunt the knives; the post also doesn't mention anything about chocking to work faster/more efficiently. For example when intonating, chocking the bridge might be easier than having to 'hold it with your fingers'

The idea is, I want someone who owns and services FR's regularly to read my steps and validate if what I'm doing is correct, that's all.
#7
Quote by 5ala
During the action setting stage, the sticky does not loosen the strings before adjusting the action. I've read that this will blunt the knives;


That's because it's not at all established that it's the way to go. Some warn that it will ruin your FR instantly, others have been modifying action all their lives without loosening the strings without detriment.

The Floyd Rose site also has guides for setting things up.
#8
Quote by dthmtl3
That's because it's not at all established that it's the way to go. Some warn that it will ruin your FR instantly, others have been modifying action all their lives without loosening the strings without detriment.

The Floyd Rose site also has guides for setting things up.

Glad to hear that. I was quite quickly convinced that I'd killed my OFR by not slacking the strings to modify the action.

So much maintenance goes into the things, and mine never stays in tune. Perhaps I have blunted it, who knows. I wouldn't get another.
#9
Moving the action a few mm under tension isn't going to dull the knife edges. This isn't something that you're doing all the time it's no big deal. Unless your floyd is made of butter, you'll be good.
#10
From what I've read original FR's and some licensed ones can be adjusted fine.
But other licensed ones like jackson's versions will dull. For me, if there's contention its worth slacking the strings because you change the action what, once every time you move to a new set of gauges.

I've edited the main post with some more changes.
#11
If it is a concern with licensed FRs or FR Special then the solution would be to loosen the strings a lot so there's little to no tension, not just loosening a bit. You still have a whole lot of pounds of tension on there if all one does it is give the tuners one or two turns.
#12
Quote by dragonzrmetal


So much maintenance goes into the things, and mine never stays in tune. Perhaps I have blunted it, who knows. I wouldn't get another.


And then there are those of us who do some (but not "much") maintenance, and whose Floyds stay in tune. Mine range from Gotohs and Schallers to cheapies of questionable origin. I have new Schallers on shelves designated as replacements for the cheapies when they wear out. And yet at least one of those cheapies has been going strong since 1992 or thereabouts, and I have no idea when I'm going to *need* to replace it...
#13
Quote by dthmtl3
If it is a concern with licensed FRs or FR Special then the solution would be to loosen the strings a lot so there's little to no tension, not just loosening a bit. You still have a whole lot of pounds of tension on there if all one does it is give the tuners one or two turns.


Yeah the Jackson trem is not listed on the FR website itself, so I figured to be safe its better to just loosen things up.