#1
Hey guys,
A relative gave me 2 old guitars.
One of them is an Eko J56/i 12 String guitar, the other one is a handmade Alpha a300 6 String.
Both of them are made in Italy.
I've never played an acoustic guitar before :/
1) How can I figure out whether a guitar needs nylon or steel strings?
The eko j56/i didn't have any strings at all when I got it and the Alpha a 300 has steel strings for the bass strings and nylon strings for the treble strings.. I don't know which of them I should buy x.x
2) I noticed that there may be some pieces missing below the hole to fix the strings of the 12 string guitar. At least it looks like that when I compare my guitar with pictures of guitars that appear when I search for it. Does anyone know the exact name for them and the approx. price in euros?
Thanks in advance and sorry for those newbie questions :/
#2
The 12-string will be a steel string, and I think that the parts you have missing are bridge pins. I looked at some pics, and the ones I found had a bolt-on neck, which means that if the action is bad, might be fairly easy to fix it.

The alpha is designed for nylons strings. What you think are steel strings might just be the metal windings on the bass strings - the cores should be nylon.
#3
Can you post up a picture of the EKO, I've played and worked on one so I may be of a little help.
#5
While on the topic of Italian guitars thought I'd repost this. Pretty awesome stuff. Where did he get the strings for it I wonder?

#7
Quote by Tony Done
I like that. I think there are still specialist gut string makers.

Notice his picking technique, IIRC, it is called "thumb under" or something like that, used by baroque players.


You know what they say Tony...If it ain't baroque, don't fix it!

This has given me an idea for a short story..."Strings of the Gods"
Last edited by TobusRex at Jul 5, 2016,
#8
Quote by Tony Done
. . . . I like that. I think there are still specialist gut string makers. . . .


It's a very famous guitar. I think there are only two Stradivari guitars in existence and the other is unplayable. And yes, there are specialist gut string makers but, boy, are they expensive. For something cheaper, La Bella make strings (albeit usually nylon) for just about every stringed instrument known to man:

http://www.labella.com/strings/

Quote by Tony Done
. . . . Notice his picking technique, IIRC, it is called "thumb under" or something like that, used by baroque players. . . . .


It's a picking technique used from rennaisance times (and probably earlier). It's used because the plucked string instruments - guitars, lutes, theorbos, etc (and similar eastern instruments) - were all strung with twin courses so the technique enables both strings of the twin courses to be played.
#9
When I posted that thread, I got a whitescreen and I thought that my phone didn't even send it.. Didn't even notice that it got submitted until I looked into the acoustic guitar forum a few minutes ago :'D
However:
I figured out which strings I need and that I need bridge pins one day after creating this thread.
The nylon string guitar works fine, but.. I've got an issue with the 12 String guitar.
It seems to have heavy fret buzzing, I'll adjust the truss rod later..
Here's a picture

Playing on a 12 String acoustic is refreshing.
It's a nice change when I want a pause from my electric guitar.
Tuning is very annoying though, not only because of the twice amount of strings but also because the tuners of that guitar need lots of force to move and make the strings go out of tune after a few minutes.
Last edited by juvion at Jul 7, 2016,
#10
juvion
I like the fret at the nut. And the tailpiece which I much prefer on a 12 if at the expense of some volume and sustain.
Is the buzzing behind (truss adjust)or in front (neck angle)of the strings?
I hope the tuning posts have collars and are not rubbing laterally against the headstock wood. A little light machine oil in the collars could help not to mention removing the tuners/collars and cleaning them up. Gear lubrication could be in order and never hurts. Light machine oil on open gear tuners. If closed tuners some proper lubrication may be in order (I use white lithium grease). Proper string winding on the tuners should prevent going out of tune. 90deg counter bend on the wound strings after passing through the post hole (acts like a hook to keep the strings from slipping)and double pass through the hole on the unwound STEEL strings. Make sure to have enough slack when starting winding to give enough winds to keep the strings from slipping. At least a full 360deg turn of the posts for each winding.
On 12's I keep the angle from the nut to the post relatively high to produce a light "feel" regarding action and to reduce overall tension on the guitar neck and body(the last wind passes above the post's string hole but watch for buzzing if there's not enough tension on the nut).
12's are normally tuned in "standard" D also to reduce tension to keep the neck from bending and the saddle from ripping off. A capo on the second fret then produces standard concert tuning and improves playing action.
On classicals I angle the strings from nut to post quite low to create more tension and volume.
After you get the proper bridge pins make sure the string eyelets hook under the saddle and not the bottom of the pins or the pins could shift causing the tuning to change and could even pop out quite suddenly.
Last edited by skido13 at Jul 8, 2016,