#1
I got an RR3 (the kind with JB/Jazz and licensed low profile) and I think I'm gonna keep it if the parts and labor I want is less than a different rhoads I'm eyeing. I can do just about everything involved in Floyd replacement except for soldering the claw; so how important is the claw to a Floyd rose? Does it matter that it's from a different bridge/is older?
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#2
Quote by Maidenheadsteve
I got an RR3 (the kind with JB/Jazz and licensed low profile) and I think I'm gonna keep it if the parts and labor I want is less than a different rhoads I'm eyeing. I can do just about everything involved in Floyd replacement except for soldering the claw; so how important is the claw to a Floyd rose? Does it matter that it's from a different bridge/is older?


It's not important at all. It serves one function. There will be those who will claim that you need bell brass claws and a specific alloy of titanium (whatever) in the screws.
If you get a new one with your new Floyd, put it in. Or not, as you prefer. FU-TONE will happily sell you a fancy new claw sprinkled with Unicorn Farts for twenty bucks, and the screws to go with it for another ten. http://www.fu-tone.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=81

And look -- you CAN solder the claw. It's so dirt simple that it's almost like saying you can't cut your own toenails.

You want to realize that there may be NO reason to replace the Floyd (licensed) with a more expensive version. If it's working well, leave it alone altogether.

But you may want to replace the sustain block on the underside (that's about a $35 expense) if the existing one is a small pot metal piece. Now THAT will change the sound of your guitar. You get to decide if it's for the better. It will also change the way the Floyd handles, and it may slightly change the balance of the guitar. Again, whether the results are beneficial is subjective and all up to you. I personally put them in on all my Floyds these days. YMMV, however.
My favorite source is FU-TONE.com

Here's a quick look at the installation of a new block. I'd ignore the tonal comparisons at the end (do your own) and definitely ignore the rambling about "transfer of energy" and all that at the very end. He's exceeded his understanding of physics and is making it up as he goes .

Last edited by dspellman at Jul 6, 2016,
#3
My problem is that it doesn't hold tune. Even on single string bends, it noticeable detunes regardless of how much stretching I do.

I'm guessing you have the sustain block as being more key to holding tune with a Floyd then the other parts? As in, it'd be the only thing needing replacing in all probability?
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#4
Quote by Maidenheadsteve
My problem is that it doesn't hold tune. Even on single string bends, it noticeable detunes regardless of how much stretching I do.

I'm guessing you have the sustain block as being more key to holding tune with a Floyd then the other parts? As in, it'd be the only thing needing replacing in all probability?


The block has almost nothing to do with holding tune. If your bridge saddles are holding the strings properly, then you need to look at the locking nut. Chances are good that you either have the pads twisted 90 degrees out of position or that the strings have worn them down. Or that you haven't tightened down the nuts on the locking nut sufficiently.

I usually have to play the heck out of a new set of strings to get them stretched in properly, and then they're good to go. I usually set the fine tuners 3/4 or so OUT (rather than in the middle) when I have a new set of strings on the guitar; your strings will almost always go flat for the first while. And I'll expect to have to pull the locking nut pads to retune things and reset the fine tuners at least once when the strings are new.
#5
You should be able to use the same claw. But soldering is a reasonable skill to learn if you want to maintain your gear and do upgrades.

Two other things to consider about tuning. Lubricate the blades. You can use chapstick. The other is the angle of the bridge to the guitar body. If the tail of the bridge is raised then the strings have more leverage over the springs. So if the tuning is flat after a dive, then make sure the tail of the bridge isn't raised when not using the bar. If the tuning is sharp after a pull up then you might consider raising the tail of the bridge a bit to get more leverage from the strings. But make sure you lube the blades before changing anything else.
#6
Quote by Maidenheadsteve
My problem is that it doesn't hold tune. Even on single string bends, it noticeable detunes regardless of how much stretching I do.

I'm guessing you have the sustain block as being more key to holding tune with a Floyd then the other parts? As in, it'd be the only thing needing replacing in all probability?
Sounds like the floating bridge is moving when you bend, which isn't a faulty bridge. It just needs to be set up properly.
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#7
Quote by dspellman
I usually set the fine tuners 3/4 or so OUT (rather than in the middle) when I have a new set of strings on the guitar; your strings will almost always go flat for the first while.


Yeah I do that too. And is it just me or do the strings feel looser to bend when the fine tuners are well out as well? For that reason I don't like using the fine tuners too much to raise the pitch, (if I can be bothered) I'd rather unlock the nut and retune at the regular tuners...
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
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Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
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#9
I have that same Jackson JT580LP bridge in my Kelly and lubing the knife edges with chap stick worked wonders.

You need to make sure the body of the trem sits parallel to the body.

I have a MIM strat where my 30w soldering iron won't melt the glob on the claw.
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#10
The trem is for sure parallel to the body. I'll hit it with some Chapstick and check the nut when I get back to it tomorrow.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#11
Is it one string or all of them giving you fits after using the bar?
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#12
Quote by Dave_Mc
Yeah I do that too. And is it just me or do the strings feel looser to bend when the fine tuners are well out as well? For that reason I don't like using the fine tuners too much to raise the pitch, (if I can be bothered) I'd rather unlock the nut and retune at the regular tuners...


I've just gotten used to using them (the fine tunas...) until they run out of play.
I have an old '70's Gibson L5S with a TP6 tailpiece. The first time I was playing it and needed to raise the high E string, I glanced down and actually said, "oh snap!" And then I vowed to never say that again.

I have no idea about looser or tighter with the fine tuners out. There are a lot of things on guitars that I assume are just my mind playing tricks on me. Because, you know, early onset Drain Bamage. From concasians from playing foobau.
#13
^ LOL

Yeah I use the fine tuners too when I'm lazy but I always feel the strings feel tighter when I tighten the fine tuners too much, if I go much past halfway. It could well be psychological, of course. But that's what it feels like. I wonder if it's a similar thing to the way they say (again, I haven't checked this so I have no idea if it actually happens or not) that the amount of string length behind the bridge affects how easy bending feels etc..
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Jul 7, 2016,