#1
Hello, I have a furch acoustic which i bought 2 year ago, and it sounds great. But i prefer playing on my old guitar instead because the action on it is just horrible. The low E string is almost 4 milimeters above the 12th fret.

Image here: http://imgur.com/QXDJu2n

The neck looks straight so i dont belive that is the issue, what should i do?
Last edited by aborndk at Jul 13, 2016,
#3
You aren't holding the ruler straight, but it looks closer to 3mm to me, which isn't too bad. If it is 3 mm, you would need to take about 1 mm off the saddle on the bass side to get it in the right ball park. I set mine at about 1.7 mm on the treble side, 2.5 mm on the bass side.

Can you post a pic of the saddle, and the action height on the treble side?

It is also possible that the nut is too high if it is uncomfortable to play on the low frets.
#4

Tony Done


Will these do?: http://imgur.com/a/0RDqQ

It feels okay to play on the low frets, but in my opinion the high ones are almost unplayable, like my fingers slide of the strings starting at 8-10th fret

Also i have size 12 strings on right now, i dont know how much effect that has but i thought it should be mentioned.
Last edited by aborndk at Jul 13, 2016,
#5
are you sure the neck's straight? I'd want to be sure (i.e. more accurate than "it looks straight") before I tried anything more drastic, because if it's not straight the trussrod will do it and that's a much easier fix.

I'm not saying this to make you feel silly, I did something similar- I assumed I'd need to mess with the saddle and nut etc. (which is beyond me) but I saw a post here the other day which said my guitar came stock with 11s- I just assumed mine came stock with 12s as most acoustics do, and I had put 12s on mine. Sure enough when I looked at the neck there was a fairly definite bow in it. Funny how your mind can play tricks on you when you think you know something for sure.
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#6

Dave_Mc


What is the proper way to check? it's quite hard to judge by eye in my opinion

Holding down on the 12th fret and strumming the part of the string toward the head of the guitar, the deep E string will ring. it wont on my other guitar which has a lot better action.

I dont exacly fancy the size 12 strings, would switching to 11 lower the action??
Last edited by aborndk at Jul 13, 2016,
#7
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=602241 the bit about "neck relief" should do it. you probably want a slightly higher action/more relief on an acoustic (I think... I'm mainly an electric player) but I think the rough principle should be the same, at least.

11s might lower the action a bit if your truss rod needs to be tweaked, but it's probably handier to just fix the truss rod if that is the problem. and if it's not i'm not sure switching to 11s will help (but i could be wrong). they'll feel a bit easier to play, though, which may help even if they don't lower the action.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#8
The saddle is very high, so it wouldn't surprise me if the neck relief turned out to be OK and the saddle needs a fair bit removed from the bottom. The action height on the treble side seems to be about 3mm, so, assuming the neck relief is correct, it would need about 2.5mm taking off on that side to get the action down to 1.7mm - and that would incidentally give a more normal-looking saddle.

But check neck relief first.
#11
The frets.com site is one of the best there is.

I do mine be removing extra from the bottom, not the top, and I use the vise jaws as a file stop, that is, I clamp the saddle in the vise with the amount to be removed just showing above the jaws. Also make sure that the bottom is dead flat when you have finished - I prefer to use a file to abrasive paper. If I do use abrasive paper, I stick it down to a piece of glass with carpet tape.
#12
Tony Done

Okay i think i have a good idea of how to do this, but how much would i want to remove? just 1 mm at a time maybe?
#13
I do some simple math. You need to take twice as much of the saddle as you wish to lower the action, on each side.

So suppose you action is 2.3 mm treble, 3.2 bass and you want 1.7 treble and 2.4 bass (which is about my settings) this makes the treble side (2.3 - 1.7) = 0.6 too high and the bass side (3.2 - 2.4) = 0.8 too high. This means you have to remove 2*0.6 = 1.2 mm from the treble side and 2*0.8 = 1.6 mm from the bass side. I try to get close to this first hit, so that only minor adjustments might be needed on the second try.
#14
Tony Done

I dont see how it is possible to remove more from the one side than another (Treble/Bass side), i understand that i should remove material from the bottom side of the bridge, but that wont work will it?
#16
Tony Done
That makes sense, i think i will just try and do it evenly for both treble and bass, starting of, just to see how that feels, i already remove about 0.8 milimeters and that helped a little, i will continue to make small steps until im happy with it and then start doing a wedge if i want it lower on the treble side