#1
Just bought this guitar, pretty sure this shouldn't happen. Is this an easy thing to fix, or is this thing basically worthless?

Not an actual Floyd, but a "Jackson" replica.



Last edited by guitarkid8 at Aug 2, 2016,
#2
loosen the strings and re-seat the post.. check to make sure the other 'base' of post is seated firmly, if the 'base' of post is too loose, there are numerous method to tighten the fit.. use small piece of paper into the side and push the 'base' back in, or fill the cavity with some wood glue let harden then reset the 'base', or use crazy glue and stick the 'base' onto the wood screw the post back down to desired height. im just giving some suggestions, and i am in no means a professional luthier, just like to mod my own guitars... just wondering, did you by chance leave your guitar in your car during these hot hot days? risk of warping and pickup loosening (had the unfortunate experience when the wax on the pickup loosen from the extreme heat). i am more careful where i place my guitars.
I have Washburn guitars 'Maverick Series' and bass 'Bantam Series' and a few pedals and amps, but man I wish to have more patience and drive practicing my playing, if it's equal to the modding itch, then I'm golden.
#5
A dot of superglue in the bottom of the hole will easily fix this.

I say the bottom of the hole because if in the future you're somehow in the situation where you need to remove the bushing, you can do so by carefully putting a few drops of acetone through the bushing and down into the bottom of the hole to soften the superglue. You should then be able to take the bushing out with a bit of perseverance and care. The acetone might also melt the black paint inside the bushing a bit, but that doesn't really matter. You'd only need to remove the existing bushing if you're intending to replace it with a new one anyway.

You won't be able to remove the bushings this way if you superglue the walls of the hole though. There would be no way for the acetone to reach the superglue to melt it.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jul 20, 2016,
#6
Looks like somebody definately tried the guitar lift by the trem arm to look cool! LOL, I agree with T00DEEPBLUE a smal drop of super glue will do the job just fine and mak it easy to remove if you decide to upgrade later.
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#7
Bushing was the word that slip my mind.. I kept refer to it as 'base'... lol.. anyway, I figure by putting small piece of paper by the cavity and pushing Bushing back into the cavity, that you will notice a tighter fit. Good luck with which method you use. I think if you do use crazy glue, do as suggested and don't use too much.
I have Washburn guitars 'Maverick Series' and bass 'Bantam Series' and a few pedals and amps, but man I wish to have more patience and drive practicing my playing, if it's equal to the modding itch, then I'm golden.
#8
Thanks, im going to glue it and see what happens.

I have another question, I need a replacement neck nut, the threaded holes are stripped out on one of the 3 "clamping blocks", where the Allen bolt threads into. I've heard that the licensed nut is smaller than the official hardware, I was wondering if it was possible to find a licensed nut for sale? So that it would be a drop in replacement?
#9
I'd measure all the dimensions of the old nut so that you know exactly what you have and know exactly what you need.

On the Jackson licensed nuts, they are a bit shorter than the Floyd Rose ones. But you can get used replacements on ebay for cheap.

Measure everything and see if an actual Floyd Rose nut will fit though. They're far easier to get than the licensed ones so if you do find a match, that's grand.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jul 20, 2016,
#10


As mentioned, the bore was cracked, don't know if the picture picked it up or not. The hole was not oval, so I used some KrazyGlue in the bottom. Without waiting the proper time, I flipped the guitar around and had glue running all over the guitar. 30 minutes and some acetone later I had the body all cleaned up, and cleared out the (now) contaminated threads for the post. Cleaned off the acetone and the rest of the guitar with some naphtha and a little boiled linseed oil for the fretboard. Leveled out the bridge, didn't have time to do anything else. Not pretty by any means, but I didn't buy it for looks.



One of the problems I've run into with the nut is that this is a 14"-16" compound radius (bought the guitar for its neck). That size is relatively rare and can not be purchased OFR. Most other Jacksons have 12"-16", so I can't use a replacement for those ether. I did however find this, and all of the specs that they provide match perfectly. Going to give it a shot.

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Floyd_Rose_Tremolos/Golden_Age_Locking_Nut_for_Floyd_Rose.html
#11
Got the StewMac nut (above), does it look correct? I've found conflicting information about the radius of the nut (12" or 14"). The replacement nut is 14". thr width and string spacing have measured the same.





#12
The way you can tell if its correct is comparing the relative depths of the nut slots that are cut into the casting. The deeper the slots are on the outside, the tighter the string radius the nut is meant for.

Jacksons use 12" radius nuts, assuming they have a standard compound radius which virtually all Jacksons have these days.. No idea where the claim that they sometimes have a 14" radius at the nut comes from.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Aug 2, 2016,
#13
Thanks for your continued support. I have a set of calipers, I can attempt to get some crude measurements. Is there a formula that I could use to determine the radius from the measurement, or simply compare them to a different nut for reference?

I have seen both 12"-16" and 14"-16" listed. Here is one for the latter:

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/jackson-mg-series-dxmg-dinky-electric-guitar-2008-model

I have seen other listings and ads for the 14"-16" CR necks, which have been for other guitars in the MG lineup, so I assumed that it was only for the (discontinued) MG line.
Last edited by guitarkid8 at Aug 2, 2016,
#14
Quote by guitarkid8
Thanks for your continued support. I have a set of calipers, I can attempt to get some crude measurements. Is there a formula that I could use to determine the radius from the measurement, or simply compare them to a different nut for reference?

I suggest printing off this document onto a piece of A4 and cutting the gauges out carefully with scissors. Make sure you print it to scale. Obviously the more careful you cut it, the more accurate it'll be. Then line up each curved side of the gauge with the nut slots to see which radiused curve matches the most closely with the relative height of the slots..

http://pickguardian.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Pickguardian-Neck-Radius-Gauges.pdf
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Aug 2, 2016,
#15
I could not make an accurate enough cut to clearly distinguish between 12" and 14". I got some rough measurements, measuring from the bottom (flat) part up to the slots. Starting with the low E.

Original
5.48
5.83 +.35
6.01. +.18
6.28. +.27
6.22. -.6
5.88. -.34

New
5.84
6.08. +.24
6.15. +.7
6.16. +.1
6.02. -.14
5.86. -.16
Although these measurements are inaccurate,
It appears that the new nut has less relief for the outside strings. Since the new nut is advertised as 14" I can only assume that is correct, which would mean that the original nut is 12" which is more in line with traditional Jackson necks.