#1
Hello gents.

So today I've got started constructing the new head case for my 6505+ head conversion.

I'm not just hacking half the casing of the old case to make the head since it's made from MDF, which is a bit shit. That and I like a bit of challenge.

So I'll be taking some photographs at a few random stages of the case as I was building it.



Raw material. It's 18mm plywood at the hardware store. It isn't very good plywood. There's a few voids in it and some of the laminations do not run continuously along each board, which sucks. But it's all they sold at that thickness. The original casing is 20mm thick, which when taking the tolex into account, should more or less make up the extra 2mm. 20mm ply is a non-standard size, 18mm is far more common.

I'd have a nice big workshop to do this project but it's still under construction. But I couldn't wait to get started on this build.




Anyway. I glued the boards together. I didn't use any fancy finger joints. I just used butt joints, the boards are pretty thick so there's still going to be a fair amount of surface area for the glue to stick to. It's still more than strong enough for my purposes. Glue was Evostick white wood glue. It's good stuff, stronger than the wood itself and like titebond, it gets tacky quickly so things tend to hold themselves in place even if the glue is still wet.. I used a lot of it for this.



The next stage was routing out the top section of the case to allow for easier access to the amp's controls. I just traced the contours of the old head case and cut it out with a jigsaw. Nothing much to it. Although it is difficult to keep the saw straight because of vibration and being that the feet of the jigsaw were bents (because it's a cheap pos) not all of the contours were cut entirely perpendicular to the top. But I fixed that fairly quickly with some 80 grit sandpaper and a block. I didn't take any pictures of that since there isn't a whole lot to see.

The next part was routing. I used a 9.5mm curved bit w/ a guide bearing. It was pretty tricky. I had some problems with burning and getting the bit at exactly the height I needed. But for the most part it was good enough and the burning doesn't bother me too much since it's going to get covered over in tolex anyway.


Frustratingly, this did happen though.





Should've known this was going to happen. Plywood doesn't play that nice when routing around corners since the laminations, like to stop being laminations.

I did the best I could with hand sanding with some 80 grit to smooth the contours of the fillets and now. It isn't exactly glossy, but more than good enough for what I'm going to be doing with it.

This is the result. Overall I'm quite happy and having matched it up with what the current case is like, I'm convinced it'll fit the amp just fine.



I've also glued in some pieces of plywood inside the case to mount the front and rear grills when they eventually go in. But I didn't photograph that since it's not very exciting.

More to come, please stand by.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



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#2
So while the glue was drying, I proceeded to make a new light bar.

I could've just bought one off the shelf. But none of the light bars I've come across come in the colour I want. I want PURPLE because that's an awesome colour.

My only solution was to build my own. I used 6 LED's and ran a few resistors to make the large 470 ohm resistor that was in the original logo. I'll fit it behind the reverb tank. There are holes in the back of the reverb tank that are perfectly sized to loop zip ties around.



This is the soldering on the back of it. Looks somewhat messy because I wanted the solder to help reinforce the board that the circuit is mounted to, as it is extremely fragile.

This was to test it.



My camera has a really hard time picking the colour up. It looks blue, but it's actually purple. It especially looks purple when reflecting the light off a surface rather than just staring into the LED. They're perfectly bright, although the resistors do get a tad warm.


Because it was so fragile, I further reinforced it with half a ton of hot glue and to prevent the circuit from shorting out on anything. I cut off the spade connectors that connected the LED wires to the old Peavey logo and soldered them to the terminals I made on the new LED strip. I covered the connectors in heat-shrink. Like this.



The reverb tank is missing from that picture because while I took that, the reverb tank was outside, having been spray painted matte black to help hide it when the amp is all put together later. So it was outside drying. I put on about 5 coats of matte.

Next stage of the build is TOLEXING. This'll probably be the most tricky part. I'll get to that in another post, perhaps tomorrow if it's a productive day.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
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#3
looks nice! i also hate tolexing. i use formica on mine, but that wouldn't work with the routed corners.

i will check back for more progress!

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#4
I'm back for a major update.

The tolex I'm using is ivory. I actually bought it from a seller for claimed it was some new-old stock from the Marshall factory itself. Pretty cool if that is true. It's not what I was expecting material-wise. Obviously the outside is textured hard-wearing vinyl but the inside is some sort of nylon fabric! Very strange. Can someone confirm if this is the real stuff?

I had been working hard on this amp since 9am this morning and now it's almost 11pm. I wanted to get all of this done within the weekend since I'll have no time to do any work during the week.

I spray painted the inside of the case with about 4 coats of satin black first thing this morning.



After doing that, I needed some of my father's help in figuring out how to wrap this thing. We decided to make it in 2 pieces so that we wouldn't end up tripping over ourselves whenever we needed to rotate the case whilst we were tolexing it. Once contact adhesive touches anything it does not come off easily! So 2 making it with 2 pieces did help to make the wrap a bit more manageable.1st piece covers the top and the sides, whilst slightly overlapping the bottom. The 2nd piece covers the rest of the bottom.

We knew this was going to be tricky. Especially considering the cutaway of the vinyl at the top having 2 compound curves each side with nothing to cover up the corners. So it had to look right and we had to do it in the first attempt.

Then the corners came next, and deciding how we curve the vinyl inside the casing while curving the same piece of vinyl around a corner. We managed to figure it out by cutting each corner out with this shape:

/ \
l l

Where one side of the triangle was on one face of the casing, and vice versa. This allowed us to peel the tolex around the corners of the casing, with each piece peeling into the case meeting up without any excess.

This video may help to explain the process a bit better.



It took about 6 hours of figuring out how to tolex this casing. We weighed up whether or not to use contact adhesive or wood glue. We used a couple of test pieces and we liked the wood glue as it was a lot more forgiving. But it wasn't nearly as strong. We were running out of hours in the day to keep fussing over what options we had, so we just went for it with the contact adhesive since it dries fast, tacks up quickly, holds onto the tolex well as you're manipulating another face of the casing, and it would seem a shame to buy this stuff for this project just to never use it.

I didn't take any pictures of the tolexing process since when the contact adhesive is on and you're cutting the tolex the right size, you've got no time to fuck around. It needs to go on the amp quickly and right the first time.

This was a quick one I snapped as we were finishing the job. We were tolexing for about 2 hours at this point.



And this is the finished product of the tolexing.





We held the pieces where the cutaway are together with staples, as the tolex is held under tension in that area. Over time we found the tolex to loosen around the corners. So the staples in that area are a must.

Other than that, for someone who has never done any kind of upholstering before, this was a fantastic first try. White tolex shows up mistakes really easily against the black on the inside of the case. And on the outside where it really counts, the head just looks plain awesome. I'm very pleased.

The corners aren't done with an insane amount of precision since they don't matter; they're getting covered up by the corners anyway.




More to come.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
#5
So after the tolexing was all over, I was on the final stretch to finishing. I marked up the holes really carefully by just copying the measurements of the old casing and using pilot holes for everything. Plywood will split between the laminations instantly if you don't pilot, especially if you're screwing into endgrain.

So after robbing the hardware off the old casing and loading the ampp's chassis, with the new grill into place, may I please present to you the final product.











Purple lights are purple (even though my camera picks them up as blue)

Oh and here's the seams of the tolex I was talking about earlier:





No too shabby.



Do I win?
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jul 31, 2016,
#7
I'd love to hear clips of your rig!

Maybe not tonight, It's a bit late.

Though I have absolutely no good quality mics so I'm not even sure if trying to record anything would be worth my while or have any representation of what the amp actually sounds like in the room.

The tolexing was tricky for sure, especially getting the tolex to fit tightly around the cutaway on the top of the case. It often would loosen and unravel itself since the vinyl has to be under constant tension to withstand the geometry of the compound curves. But with enough swearing and staples, it went in very nicely.

Trust me, if not for that cutaway, this would be a very simple build. I'm sure you could do it yourself. Though an extra pair of hands is very helpful.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jul 31, 2016,
#8
Great job , you could sell quality work such as that and get ya some 4x12's \m/ ( o )( o ) \m/
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#9
That looks mint man good job! Digging the white tolex with black/purple everything else.