#1
Currently working on my first "real" gloss finish, I just applied the clear coat and I have a few days to wait for it to cure.

(Here's the guitar body in case you're curious: http://mattwins.blogspot.com/2016/08/building-guitar-body-from-plywood-part.html )


I've seen some pretty strong divides between people in how to sand to remove scratches - what technique do you think works best:

A) Sanding in straight lines in one direction

B) Sanding in straight lines, then perpendicular to that (crosshatched)

C) Sanding in circular motions


I haven't had a whole lot of luck in the past and I was wondering what everyone's experiences were. Also, if there's any tips on knowing how much to sand back, that would be appreciated. I used a whole can of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel put on in six coats to hopefully be safe but don't have much experience yet.
#2
Did you sand the wood prior to putting on the clear coats? At this point, if you didn't, there's nothing more you can do to get scratches to the wood without wiping out the clear coat.
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#3
Quote by megano28
Did you sand the wood prior to putting on the clear coats? At this point, if you didn't, there's nothing more you can do to get scratches to the wood without wiping out the clear coat.



Yeah I did, I'm talking about taking out "orange peel" in the paint and the clear coat by sanding it smooth, then taking out the micro scratches left by the sandpaper in the clear coat.
#4
Quote by Matt (GGR)
Yeah I did, I'm talking about taking out "orange peel" in the paint and the clear coat by sanding it smooth, then taking out the micro scratches left by the sandpaper in the clear coat.
Well, you can buy wet or dry sandpaper down to 2000 grit.That usually doesn't "leave visible scratches", unless you're a bald eagle or some other form of raptor wearing a loupe visor. or using a magnifying glass.

The clear does have to be fully cured using paper that fine though, or it will clog up, wet, dry, or otherwise.
Last edited by Captaincranky at Aug 4, 2016,
#5
Quote by Captaincranky
Well, you can buy wet or dry sandpaper down to 2000 grit.That usually doesn't "leave visible scratches", unless you're a bald eagle or some other form of raptor wearing a loupe visor. or using a magnifying glass.

The clear does have to be fully cured using paper that fine though, or it will clog up, wet, dry, or otherwise.


Not an eagle wearing a loupe visor, I do have nearly 20/10 vision though :P
My problem might just be that I only have up to 1200 grit, guess I gotta go buy some 2000 grit then to be safe.

Hopefully it'll be cured soon, I'm on an unusual deadline because I'm moving out soon so don't have more than 7 days for it to cure, but from testing on a scrap it seemed cured to the fingernail test in under 48 hours luckily.
#6
It's kind of difficult to get orange peel out with paper as fine as 2000. Flatten it with the 1200, and finish it off with the 2000.

Keep in mind you might be obsessing a bit. You still have to go through compound and glazing steps.

Is this a catalytic clear, poly or the like? If so, AND you have a friend or a friend of a friend in the auto body trade, a chat with that person might calm your nerves a bit.

Well speaking of visual acuity, hindsight is always at least 20/20 also. It would have been prudent for you to spray a "test log" to practice on.

I looked at your page. One little tidbit about Gibson semi-hollows is, I believe the original ES-335's were solid, but Gibson went to laminate so they didn't feedback. (Guys were complaining they couldn't play them loud enough). < Needs a second set of eyes on the fact check.
Last edited by Captaincranky at Aug 4, 2016,
#7
i go 1200, 2000, 4000 in circular motion, and use a VERY light rubbing compound and use that to polish. make sure it is a very fine cut. i like 3M stuff for this.

i would let it sit and cure another day or two though.
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#8
Thanks for the tips, it's really tempting to finish it now but I'm going to leave it to cure for at least 48 hours, then I'll work up through the grits as per your advice.