#1
I have an 81 Ibanez Destroyer II that has a very finnicky output jack. I used contact cleaner and that seemed to help for a few days but it's started buzzing and cutting in and out again. I have decided to buy a new Switchcraft jack and install it myself since it looks very easy. I don't have a soldering iron and am looking around to find one that is suitable for the job.

Are there any specifics I need to look for for guitar solder work? Any suggestionsfor a specific iron? Thanks
#3
Sounds good. Just found a Weller 40w adjustable soldering station on amazon. I'll go with that, the switchcraft jack, and some 60-40 solder. Should do the trick. Thanks!
#4
A 30 watt will do the trick, I've used a Weller 30 watt for over 30 years. Now have a 40 watt also, it works great but watch the heat for small wires and parts. Picked up a cheap Radio Shack 25 watt when I needed one and didn't have my Weller, it works fine too. The only time a higher wattage iron is needed is for the backs of pots, for the jack a 25 watt would do fine. I've done jacks and cables with the 25 watter many times.

Tin the contacts on the jack and wires first, it will help a lot. It will probably also help to buff it with some fine grit sandpaper, solder does not like to stick to chrome parts. I use a foam fingernail file. all it takes is a few seconds to buff the surface.

Tinning - Buff the contacts, get the iron hot. Use a damp natural sponge or paper towel to clean the soldering iron tip between all soldering jobs. A clean iron works a lot better. Just wipe it across the sponge. Melt a small blob of solder onto the tip of the iron, touch it to the contact until the solder flows onto the contact. You're done, move on to the next contact. I find using paste flux helps a lot too. Rosin flux, never acid. Acid flux will cause electronics parts to rust badly. I found out the hard way...

Once tinned, just solder the wires in place. The tinning helps the final solder flow and stick a lot better. Once tinned, you can solder the wire and contact together almost instantly. Tin the wires first too. Same method. You can do the final solder using the same method used for tinning, it works great. melt a blob of solder onto the iron, touch it to the parts, already put together, and it should melt together in 2 seconds or less. Practice on a few loose wires.

Knowing how to solder is priceless, I've had to solder cables together with 10 minutes to be onstage. I was taught by a friend who worked for an electronics assembly plant, soldering calculators together for about 10 years. That is the method used to build the calculators sold nationwide for the past 30 years. Most amp builders will tell you to put the two parts together, then heat both at once with the iron, and touch the solder to the parts. that works, but I find it more reliable to use the method I described above. Melt some solder onto the iron, touch that to the parts. If you use the other method, always melt a tiny blob of solder onto the iron, it will transfer heat much better than a dry iron. Always remember to clean the iron tip on a sponge or paper towel (damp) before soldering another part. Nothing better than a clean tip.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...