#1
So, it's reached the point where I need to buy or build a pedalboard. It probably won't ever leave the house, because I haven't played with anyone else for a couple of years now, but I live in hope.

The idea I had was wood, would either fit inside a case or be the removable base of one, and would have a raised level at the back.
Basically, what I pictured was similar to this, although I pictured with straight edges and right angles:

http://www.chemistrydesignwerks.com/images/holeyboard%20wide%20super%20bee396.png?crc=8152507

Originally, I was going to have my Crybaby positioned at one end, and my Whammy at the other, with the raised part between them, behind the footswitch unit for my amp. However, I just picked up a Rotovibe, so if I keep it, I will need to readjust my layout ideas.

So, really, I need advice on three areas:
1. Signal path.
2. Physical layout.
3. Power supply.

My current thinking for signal path is as follows:

Guitar
Polytune
Boss LS-2 (Crybaby in one loop, Rotovibe in the other)
Whammy
Tubescreamer (when I get around to rehousing it)
Bass Big Muff

Then the Worm either after that, or in the effects loop. I don't currently have any chorus or delay, never really felt compelled to use them. I use my amp's reverb.


Thanks in advance.
#2
For order: What you have listed top to bottom is right. Tuner depends; some do it first for the cleanest signal possible. Don't use one myself so no opinion. The 3 expression-pedal based pedals before the dirt, tube screamer can boost the muff. Whammy after the Boss seems fine

I guess everything in the main path on the bottom level, fx loop stuff on the shelf (though, you're only using one fx loop pedal). Whammy might be an interesting fit with the shelf and the fact its 1 of 7 main path pedals. If not every thing fits I would suggest putting the Muff on the shelf, connect it to the screamer with whatever length necessary, and then muff to amp as usual (again, slots/holes in the shelf would be great in this scenario). Rinse and repeat with the screamer on the shelf as necessary.

Pedal power 2+ usually a good go. Isolated, only $169, 8 outputs. Outlet on back if you have a Whammy IV (AC power only). Right under the shelf should be good, the cables are usually long enough. Any holes/slots in the shelf for the cables to get down to the supply would be great.
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#3
Maidenheadsteve

Thanks for the advice :-) I'm a little cheesed off that the Whammy 4 needs its own power supply.

I was thinking about drilling holes for patch leads and power cables through the shelf bit, putting the power supply under there, and then a hole in the back (depending on the finished design) to run power out the back.

I was also thinking about something using cable ties or some sort of foam pipe insulation or something to keep my footswitch cable and three leads (front of amp, effects loop send and return) tidy and protected.
#4
I've gone for a cheap Chinese power supply for now (Donner), with the Whammy and the Worm using their own supplies. If I decide to upgrade, it looks like the 1 Spot Pro CS 12 should handle the 9v AC Whammy, and 24v Worm with a doubler cable.

Now I just need to decide the physical layout....

Last edited by luke.g.henderso at Sep 19, 2016,
#5
^

I just got the one spot pro cs12 and it is very good. Powered my pedals more conveniently than vodoo labs
Bands:
Native State
A Titan, A Deity
Rash L.A

Gear:
PRS P245 Semi Hollow
Suhr Modern Guthrie Spec
Mayones Regius 7 Buckeye Burl
LSL CVS Studio Strat
Fender American Standard Tele
Faith Hi Gloss Venus

Mesa Lonestar Special
Bugera 333
Zilla 2x12 Fatboy
Line 6 PodHD500
#6
I'm considering putting the expression pedals and line selector on a separate board, so I can either use a small board with the tuner, TS 5, Big Muff and Worm, or two small boards next to each other with some minor cable changes.
#7
luke.g.henderso do you gig?

as far as the two pedalborads, that is just a few more things you need to grab, also more cables to hook up (or fail).

if not, go for it. i probably have 10 home made pedalboards trying different things over the last ten years. i currently use three i built out of reclaimed wood my company took out of an old house (1940's IIRC). they are neat for what i do. i have two big and one small, and they are all populated. lol.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#8
trashedlostfdup Not currently, and not any time soon, sadly. Just at home, or at rehearsal studios. Which made me wonder if I could get away with something like:

A case, shallower bottom, deeper top, where the top can be detached. Two Pedaltrain-style boards that fit inside the case, expression pedals at the back, smaller pedals on the front, with the power supply at the back of the front one. These can be lifted out for access.

But to be honest, I think it would be easier to have one board and simply pull the tuner and maybe Big Muff out when I'm just jamming on riffs and don't need the full board.