#1
How do you like your individual strings setup? and why? What I mean is, on Fenders, both the E strings are set low then the A and B strings are raised a little higher, then the D and G strings are raised the highest. From the side, they appear arched. Gibson, for example, seem to be flat and all the same height. I could be wrong about that but the point is- how do you like your strings raised and why?

I wonder if there is a difference when playing. For instance, all the strings are the same height on my Epiphone LP but I am going to change strings today and I want to tweak the setup, like have the strings raised a little in contrast to each other and I want to see if it makes it easier to pick like arpeggios or like when you hold a chord and individuall pick the strings- does it make a difference in your experience and which do you prefer? Thanks in advance, all you guitar freaks, gunslingers, and geeks!
#2
Generally speaking, the bottoms of my strings follow the radius of the fretboard, but with the bottom of the low E string slightly higher than the bottom of the high E string (and all other strings proportional to that). I like large radius fretboards (14", 16", 20" radius) and thus the strings are also a bit flatter. I measure that action from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. You can use understring radius gauges to set the strings to a specific radius:




You'll find that most good techs will set your guitar that way unless you request something different. Setting this radius usually involves cutting the nut specifically to match the fretboard radius and setting the bridge saddles in the same way (shims are required on some bridges).

The reason that you see more "arch" on the strings on some Fenders is that some vintage Fenders have a fretboard radius of around 7.25" and 9.5", where Gibsons have pretty much standardized on a 12" radius (though many show up with a 10" radius for some reason) and most asian guitars come with a 13.7" radius. Guitars intended for shredding and arpeggios will often be 16" - 20" radii.
#3
The reason why Fenders tend to have the strings set with more of a curve than Gibsons is because Fenders tend to have a more severe curve in their fingerboards than Gibsons, and the string heights are individually set to match the curvature of the fingerboard, on pretty much any guitar, so you have action that feels consistent across all strings.

All that mismatching the string curve to the fingerboard curve does is cause an inconsistency that makes some strings feel harder to fret than others, making the guitar feel a bit awkward and clunky to play.
I like analogue Solid State amps that make no effort to be "tube-like", and I'm proud of it...

...A little too proud, to be honest.
#4
Good info. And now I realize you can't make individual string adjustments on a Epiphone (Gibson style bridhe/saddles). Maybe I am missing something but I never realized it before. I read about it and I can't see a way to do it unless you raise the bridge itself. Oh, well. My other guitar I can change string height. I will do that one next and tweak around with it and have the string height match the radius of the guitar.

Still more to learn, I guess
Last edited by Francarus at Sep 27, 2016,
#5
TOM bridges don't allow you to adjust the string radius of the bridge because there's really no good reason why you would want to. Generally guitars should always have their string radius match the fretboard radius.
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Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Sep 27, 2016,