Hey guys,

I have a Schechter C1+ Diamond Series guitar and I wanted to upgrade quite a few thing on it.

I wanted to know if there are any limitations to locking tuners that I would need to consider when picking new tuners. Also I wanted to upgrade the pick-ups, and wanted to know if there are also any limitations on those? For example size and what not. I understand that I won't use an f-spaced pick up, but a normal one.

My last question was about the bridge. I'm guessing I can get a new tune-o-matic bridge and just replace it easily. Will I have to set up the intonation on the new bridge as well?

Thank you for the help...this is my first time upgrading a guitar so sorry if these are noob questions.
most pickups are a standard size so that shouldn't be an issue. locking tuners may need to have new holes drilled when installed but otherwise should present no issues. do you really need to replace the bridge? and yes it will need to be intonated again.
Quote by monwobobbo
do you really need to replace the bridge? and yes it will need to be intonated again.

I don't NEED it, I guess I could just clean it really thoroughly. I figured as long as i was getting new stuff, I would get that as well lol.

Thanks for the response, it was helpful!
I really see no need for locking tuners., If you tune properly in the first place, the old open back brass el cheapo tuners used on 1960's beginner guitars work perfect. I have a set on a 1966 Harmony that are still working great, over 50 years old. Also have a set on a 1940 to 1950 lap steel, about 75 years old, still working great. I had to replace the plastic knobs you turn them with, but the tuners still work great, I Just give them a drop of 3 in 1 oil about once a year. One drop.

Start below the pitch you want. Tune up to concert pitch. If you go too sharp, DO NOT tune DOWN to the note you want, take it back below pitch and come up to it again. Never tune down, always up.Tuning down leaves a very good possibility the first time you stretch the strings a little, it will drop out of tune and end up flat. Always tune UP to the pitch you need.

I've been doing this for 40 years, my guitars only go out of tune while playing if the temperature changes. Any time the room changes 2ºF your tuning goes out the window. It gives me fits if I have to play under an AC vent or outside in the evening in fall when the temperature drops... Inside when temps are fairly constant, my guitars will all stay in tune or only need minor tweaking if I leave them sitting in the cases for 3 weeks.

If you have tuning problems, and tune properly, tuners are most likely the last thing that will cause it. Temp changes will affect tuning, also the way you wrap the strings when re stringing will aff3ect it. If you have too many wraps, you also have a good chance of a lot of string stretch in those wraps. I Cut mine about 1 1/2 inches past the tuner hole, leave a tag end about 1/2 inch, and go from there, I usually get 2 1/2 to 3 wraps at most, never have any tuning problems at all. More than that, the wraps can take a while to "settle in" and tuning goes wacko until they do.

Also the ball ends at the bridge can cause trouble until they stretch a little. For a few years, I played every night for a living and changed strings every day, to minimize stretch I would solder the ball ends to eliminate that bit of stretch at the ball ends.

If you have a bolt on neck, sometimes if a both on is loose it can contribute to tuning problems too. Old strings can start to have tuning problems.

Loose screws at the mount point of the Tune O Matic bridge can cause trouble. When setting intonation I always move the saddles closer to the nut and come back toward the bridge to set intonation, keeping tension on the strings in that direction, so that if the saddles move in the threads, it will naturally pull toward the nut every time and intonation usually stays put. You'll have tension pulling the saddles against the back of the bridge, leaving no room for the saddles to wobble in the threads. Tension is already against the threads. The angle the strings have at the saddle will naturally pull them in that direction, toward the nut. So when you set intonation, pull against that, back toward the bridge.

All little things, but put together they make a difference. The most difference though, is in tuning properly.

EDIT - Almost forgot, a little graphite from a #2 pencil in the nut slots will help lubricate them so the strings don't bind in the nut slots when you tune. If you hear a PING when you tune up, the strings are binding in the nut. Just scrape the nut slots with a pencil, use a sharp point to get into the smaller slots. Detune the string, pull it up and to the side, put in some graphite, retune, you're good to go until it starts to ping again.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Last edited by Paleo Pete at Oct 23, 2016,
Very interesting read Paleo, I always tune up by taking it down below the pitch. You might've just talked me out of locking tuners. The weather here has been crazy, going from 80 to 50 in a day and I realize that my acoustic and my Schecter go out of pitch pretty badly. My other guitar with a double locking tremolo and locking tuners will go flat a bit, but nothing too crazy like my Schecter and the acoustic.

Also, you explained intonation very well and how to set it properly.

I understand that changing the nut also helps maintain tuning a bit better, for example changing to a bone nut from a plastic nut?

Great info, learned quite a bit on guitar set up.
nut? yes.
pickups? yes.
tuners? locking tuners are overrated.
bridge? i wouldn't bother.
I always prefer a bone over plastic nut, but as long as the plastic is not broken or the nut slots worn too deep, it should work. The main problem a nut will cause is strings binding in it. Graphite from a pencil will work for either type. If I had a plastic nut, I'd change it but that's your choice. All mine have bone but one, a Peavey Patriot with a graphite nut from the factory. Some people like the newer Graph Tech nuts, I've never tried one so I don't know.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Awesome thank you, I just ordered new pick-ups, I will look into getting a new bone nut as well once I figure out which size I need.

Appreciate the help guys, ty!
Disagree on the locking tuners. I have never tuned so little after installing locking tuners as opposed to the stock tuners on the guitars I've swapped out. Having said that, they aren't a necessity, but it's so much easier and I have had nothing but improvements.
bear in mind if you don't want to drill then you can probably get locking tuners which are the same size as your current tuners. that's actually probably what most people do, no point in giving yourself work for the sake of it.

locking tuners are awesome if you can't half tune properly (like me ) but just be aware that they're not like a locking nut- problems at the nut will still cause tuning problems i.e. you can still have tuning problems even with locking tuners. the real advantage of them is quicker string changes really.
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