#1
Hello,

I have a traditional 2520, which I'm trying to setup so I can push and pull on the trem.

Strings are tuned and the plate is paralell to the body. It doesnt give me much room to pull up on the trem bar, I can raise the pitch but not by much.

Do I need to get the trem block more central in the cavitiy? if so how do I do that, by reducing the tension by removing a spring, or loosing the adjustment screws?

as you see below, theres not much room for me to pull up on the bar, or is that normal?



Last edited by gravyYelp at Nov 28, 2016,
#2
That block is fairly thin too. Is that tremolo stock to the guitar or was it swapped out from a non locking tremolo? is the body top routed for the tremolo to be recessed?

Remember that even if your base plate is parallel and your tremolo is floating correctly you won't be able to pull up much if the body is not recessed and even if recessed you shouldn't be able to pull up as far as you can dive.

Can you provide pictures of the top?
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Last edited by Evilnine at Nov 28, 2016,
#3
Evilnine

Thanks for the reply.

I *think* its stock, its a E710844 MIJ, not recessed - added more pices
#4
Quote by gravyYelp
Evilnine

Thanks for the reply.

I *think* its stock, its a E710844 MIJ, not recessed - added more pices


Yeah top mount tremolos are not really condusive to pulling up.

That said it looks like they could have done a better job of centering the blockk in the routing which leads me to believe that Fender wasn't really even considering pulling up on the trem which honestly makes sense considering the style of tremolo that was typically on a Strat.

FWIW there was alot of experimentation going on with locking tremolos in the 80s that one looks like a failed attempt that was likely discontinued rather quickly singlw locking temolos with the lock nut located on the head behind the original plastic nut were not stable platforms for staying in tune by any means it would be OK for some minor wiggling but don't expect it to hold tune after dive bombing.

This was an attempt by Fender to get a piece of the 80s Superstrat market they also had a HM Strat MIJ with a double locking Kahler that was more similar to an OFR and those they were recessed.
"A well-wound coil is a well-wound coil regardless if it's wound with professional equipment, or if somebody's great-grandmother winds it to an old French recipe with Napoleon's modified coffee grinder and chops off the wire after a mile with an antique guillotine!"
- Bill Lawrence

Come and be with me
Live my twisted dream
Pro devoted pledge
Time for primal concrete sledge

#5
Quote by Evilnine
Yeah top mount tremolos are not really condusive to pulling up.

That said it looks like they could have done a better job of centering the blockk in the routing which leads me to believe that Fender wasn't really even considering pulling up on the trem which honestly makes sense considering the style of tremolo that was typically on a Strat.

FWIW there was alot of experimentation going on with locking tremolos in the 80s that one looks like a failed attempt that was likely discontinued rather quickly singlw locking temolos with the lock nut located on the head behind the original plastic nut were not stable platforms for staying in tune by any means it would be OK for some minor wiggling but don't expect it to hold tune after dive bombing.

This was an attempt by Fender to get a piece of the 80s Superstrat market they also had a HM Strat MIJ with a double locking Kahler that was more similar to an OFR and those they were recessed.


This trem was discontinued by Kahler, but you can still buy a similar trem from Floyd http://www.floydrose.com/catalog/tremolos/6:non-fine-tuner
It wasn't intended to be pulled up, as you note, which is why the block isn't centered.
To the OP -- there's no way to get the block centered using the methods you've outlined, and even if you moved the whole trem, you'd have serious issues with tuning and intonation because you'd have changed the scale of the guitar.