#1
Hi folks:

Nice looking instrument and quality finish, even if Chinese made. Can't find serious bad reviews yet. No buzzez on fret 5, which is where I work mostly doing folk.

On tuning I had a weird problem on the tuning key for octave 3rd string. It tightened OK in usual gradients, then while still turning, the string stopped tightening, then decided to continue after a couple turns. The built in tuner stopped while this was happening, and continued when it grabbed. I thought it was a lifting bridge pin, but that was OK, and also could be a slipping tuning key, but I figured it was brand new and couldn't be that. Another thing too, I was wondering if it was a return instrument. So I magnifying glassed everything, and it looks unused. All tags were present. It was curious too that the string had a very short span between flat and sharp on the tuner, getting to the exact note almost precision like. This was so sensitive that I very gently had to move into the last tuned position, otherwise the needle would wild swing to the right. Wondering if anyone else ever experienced that. My wild guess? Bad or cheap string.

The more serious concern is on lack of bridge slots, as I noticed the spacing over sound hole to be unstandardized, not too bad though. I need to solve this, as in time the strings will seat in their slot of their own making. I was thinking of making a slotted comb type tool with consistent spaced slots, then loosening the strings, and sliding the comb up to the bridge, then tightening the whole thing up and re-tuning. I was wondering if on the rare occasion I do heavy strumming, the strings could move. Also I was wondering if leaving it this way, my brain imprinting to the picking could become accustomed to the string spacing, screwing up my picking when I use the 6 string parlor guitar I also have.

But on closing, I still like this guitar. The bridge question has me concerned.

Thanks for the help.
#2
OK Minstrel2, is there a chance you might give us a brand to go with that model number, or is it a secret?
Quote by Minstrel2
...[ ]...On tuning I had a weird problem on the tuning key for octave 3rd string. It tightened OK in usual gradients, then while still turning, the string stopped tightening, then decided to continue after a couple turns.
Well, it can really only be one of three things. 1: If the tuning key is adjustable, the screw in the middle of the knob), it could be backed way out or missing.

2: The string ball end could have failed to seated against the underneath, back side of the bridge. You want to make a "J" bend at the ball end, and make sure when you string, the string is riding loose in the pin groove. That way, when you tighten the string, it wedges underneath the bridge. When tuned to pitch, the ball end should be pushing the pin toward the back of the guitar, and the string end itself should be riding free in the groove. (Most pins are slotted these days, but I am making an assumption yours are.

3: The string is sticking in the nut groove. Grind some pencil lead into the slot. You can also, if need be, widen the groove with the tiniest wire of a "torch tip cleaner" Google those, if need be. Actually when you're dealing with strings as light as .008, (and you're very good with tools), you could widen the nut slots with a very, very, very light sideways scuffing, using a hobby type "Zona" saw.

For your hands, tendons, the guitar's lifespan, and own happiness sake, in the long term:

1: Tune your guitar no higher than D-d, a whole step down.

2: Then, change the octave G, to an .009. A .008 is standard in a 12 string light set (.010 to .047), but you'll be breaking them day in and day out. The extra tension from an .009, won't matter with the tune down, and the nines aren't as twitchy to tune.

3: If you want to play at E-e standard, buy a decent screw type capo, (IE "Planet Waves NS capo), fix it to the guitar at the lowest pressure which quiets all the buzzes, and then re-tune the guitar with a strobe tuner (!), with the capo in place. (No matter what anybody may say, capos work best about 1/4" behind the fret).

Happy motoring, Merry Christmas, but most importantly, "Happy New Guitar Day"!

Quote by Minstrel2
Another thing too, I was wondering if it was a return instrument. So I magnifying glassed everything, and it looks unused. All tags were present. It was curious too that the string had a very short span between flat and sharp on the tuner, getting to the exact note almost precision like. This was so sensitive that I very gently had to move into the last tuned position, otherwise the needle would wild swing to the right. Wondering if anyone else ever experienced that. My wild guess? Bad or cheap string.
I bought a "Crafter D-8-12". They're made in Korea. The Koreans make a decent guitar, but the worst 12 string, string sets, I've ever had the misfortune to hear. Yee-uck... So change those right away to either D'Addario EXP's, or, (believe it or not, better still) Elixir Phosphor Bronze. (Watch out, those have quite a bit of "sticker shock", on the pricing). NOT 80/20's they're way to bright for the average twelve.

Quote by Minstrel2
The more serious concern is on lack of bridge slots, as I noticed the spacing over sound hole to be unstandardized, not too bad though. I need to solve this, as in time the strings will seat in their slot of their own making. I was thinking of making a slotted comb type tool with consistent spaced slots, then loosening the strings, and sliding the comb up to the bridge, then tightening the whole thing up and re-tuning. I was wondering if on the rare occasion I do heavy strumming, the strings could move. Also I was wondering if leaving it this way, my brain imprinting to the picking could become accustomed to the string spacing, screwing up my picking when I use the 6 string parlor guitar I also have.
In all honesty, adjusting your playing when making the switch from 6 to 12, is really shit you're going to have to learn to deal with, plain and simple.

As for cutting notches in the existing saddle, sure, why not? If the action is already low enough, you would need to fashion another saddle. It usually isn't low enough. On an acoustic 12 string, the string spacing is usually pretty much dependent on the placing of the bridge pins anyway. The comb thing, is really "over-thunking".

Quote by Minstrel2
Thanks for the help.


OK, the strings: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/elixir-phosphor-bronze-12-string-acoustic-guitar-strings-with-nanoweb-coating-light-.010-.047?rNtt=Elixir%20acoustic%2012%20string%20sets&index=2

The capo: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/daddario-planet-waves-ns-aluminum-screw-type-capo?rNtt=Planet%20waves%20capo&index=2

The tuner: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/tc-electronic-polytune-clip-on-guitar-tuner

Torch tip cleaner: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Oxygen-Acetylene-Torch-Tip-Cleaner-Kit-KH575/100341101 (Right at your Friendly neighborhood Home Depot, four bucks).
Last edited by Captaincranky at Dec 25, 2016,